Blaze King Gasket Maintenance

[fdegree]

Blaze King - King
I think I'm going to replace the bypass damper gasket, and the door gasket, this coming off season. This brings up some questions:

Bypass Damper Gasket

1. What kind / type of gasket do I need?
2. Best place to get this gasket?
3. What is the best way to access, and replace the gasket?
4. Does it need to be cemented in place?

Door Gasket

1. What kind / type of gasket do I need?
2. Best place to get this gasket?
3. Does it need to be cemented in place?

 

[jeff_t]

The bypass gasket is 5/8", high density rope. It is easily accessed thru the flue collar. Yes, cement it in place.

The door gasket is 7/8" high density. Cement it in place, also.

The high density rope isn't easy to find. I'd start with your dealer.

 

[mellow]

Yea, true high density is not easy to get. I think BK uses mid-mountain gaskets, best to get straight from BK.

 

[fdegree]

Thanks for the fast replies. I'll start looking around for the rope now.

 

[mellow]

Trust me when I say NO ONE locally will have high density gasket, already tried that route, not even bylers as they sell Meeco gaskets.

 

[begreen]

(broken link removed)

 

[fdegree]

Thanks, Mellow...I was going to start calling around. I love Byler's...thought they might have had it. Thanks for the heads up...won't waste my time.

Thanks for the link begreen. I check them out.

 

[rdust]

The bypass gasket is 5/8", high density rope. It is easily accessed thru the flue collar. Yes, cement it in place.

The door gasket is 7/8" high density. Cement it in place, also.

The high density rope isn't easy to find. I'd start with your dealer.

Not sure on the bypass but I know the door uses silicone not cement. BKVP gave me the info on it when I did my door gasket, I'll dig up the info out of my conversations.

 

[fdegree]

When buying by the foot, anyone know how long I would need for the bypass damper?

By measuring the exterior of the door, I'm estimating about 4.5 - 5.0 feet of 7/8" rope.

 

[fdegree]

Good to know rdust...thanks. I'll be looking for that update.

 

[rdust]

Good to know rdust...thanks. I'll be looking for that update.

Found it, "3M Dow Corning #732" is what they use. I used Permatex red high temp silicone from the local auto parts store which worked fine. Chris also gave his ok on it before I bought it.

 

[mellow]

Here is a good thread for you to read: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/princess-bypass-door-gasket.135820/

 

[fdegree]

Thanks for all of the tips...they've been extremely helpful!

 

[jtb51b]

I just replaced the gaskets on my princess, I used 5/8" rutland gasket on the bypass and 7/8 (brandless, white) on the door. I cemented both in because thats what was on hand. Worked fine. Be sure to clean everything out well while your in there and be ready to adjust the bypass door to ensure it seals well. I went in from above, took minimal time. Good time to clean the cat while your down.

Jason

 

[fdegree]

Thanks! -- I have a new cat on hand. During the off season, I plan to sweep the chimney, replace the cat, change the bypass gasket and the door gasket. Probably doesn't need all of that, but I have noticed a decrease in efficiency, so I thought I may as well make it as "new" as I can before next season.

 

[Woody Stover]

I used Permatex red high temp silicone from the local auto parts

Last time I grabbed the VersaChem Mega Copper...I think it was 800 intermittent. Overkill no doubt since on the Buck (and probably most others,) the door frame/gasket is mostly shielded from radiant heat by the stove front.

 

[craigbaill]

I need to get an extra cat gasket, loading door and bypass gasket to have on hand. The bypass gasket looks like a chore to get at even with my small hands.

I finally cooled my stove yesterday which was one of our colder days but the fire was out so I took advantage. I took 2 huge pails of ash out of the firebox and then unscrewed the pipe to check the flue. The flue was pretty clean with only a small amount of ash on the pipe. I did not sweep as I have not bought a Sooteater yet. There was also minimal ash just behind the cat by the bypass door. I could have wiped it all up with a damp rag but I vaccumed it out. I also took the vac brush and brushed the bypass rope gasket, CAT and loading door gasket. The bypass door seemed like it would stay sealed by gravity but I am certain it wont pass the dollar bill test. I quickly checked my stove owners manual and could not find a way to adjust the door either. Its probably there and I missed it but I was eager to get the stove up and running as it was dropping below 62 in the house. 30 minutes later it was all back together and working like a champ. We have been running this stove since about the second week of November.

This thing just runs and heats well.

 

[jeff_t]

I quickly checked my stove owners manual and could not find a way to adjust the door either.

There's a 1/4" bolt threaded thru the clip thingy that is welded on the bypass door. There is a lock nut on that bolt. Loosen the lock nut and thread the bolt in a little, then check it. Be careful not to break the bolt or put too much tension on it. What you are doing is bending that clip out so the bar pushes down harder on it. It is welded to the bypass door on the other end, so there is some give to it, but you don't want to break the weld.