Blaze King Oak Kit.. can I hard pipe?

[Smolder]

We have a leaky 130-140 year old triple brick house with double hung windows. I’m thinking an OAK kit would help get rid of the draft across the floor.

I need to route the oak kit through the floor, and into the basement and out an old window. For the topside of the kit can I use rigid steel pipe? I think it would look nicer than flex pipe. For the basement side can I use rigid plastic pipe?

(Stove is an Ashford 30)

Seth

 

[kennyp2339]

Absolutely - the kit has a 3" diameter pipe opening, metal pipe at the stove plastic is fine under the flow, or just use the 26g metal pipe in 3ft sections.

 

[Smolder]

Absolutely - the kit has a 3" diameter pipe opening, metal pipe at the stove plastic is fine under the flow, or just use the 26g metal pipe in 3ft sections.

Excellent! I just had my dealer order one!

 

[Highbeam]

There is a 4” version as well that would allow you to use 4” pipe which is a more common size. If you must run this oak duct any distance it is supposed to be 4”. I used all 4” metal on my princess. A mix of rigid and flex.

 

[SidecarFlip]

My rule of thumb is like exhaust venting. The longer the run, the larger the diameter. My exhaust venting on my corn burner is 3" out of the stove transitioning to 4" outside and up the vent pipe.

My air intake is 3" but it's short (through the wall to the stove). if I was to run any length, I'd go up to 4" over 5 feet and over 15' go to 5". reason being that the longer the run the more internal resistance in the piping there is. I realize it's only air but there is still internal resistance to the air flowing freely in the pipe.

Just my 2 cents and yes outside air intake will decrease floor drafts and I cannot see the percentage of using stove heated air for combustion anyway. Not frugal in my view.

 

[Smolder]

There is a 4” version as well that would allow you to use 4” pipe which is a more common size. If you must run this oak duct any distance it is supposed to be 4”. I used all 4” metal on my princess. A mix of rigid and flex.

I’ll probably do the 3” to the floor immediately behind the stove and then bump up to 6” to the old cellar window where pipes and things leave the basement (no longer a window).

 

[Highbeam]

I’ll probably do the 3” to the floor immediately behind the stove and then bump up to 6” to the old cellar window where pipes and things leave the basement (no longer a window).

That should provide plenty of flow and will also be slow enough that it will warm up while in your basement. Some folks in extremely cold places can get actual frost/condensation on these pipes which could then drip.

 

[Smolder]

That should provide plenty of flow and will also be slow enough that it will warm up while in your basement. Some folks in extremely cold places can get actual frost/condensation on these pipes which could then drip.

I’ll be sure to leave a slope on that pipe.

 

[showrguy]

I’ll be sure to leave a slope on that pipe.

I insulated mine with duct wrap, foil faced fiberglass..

 

[jetsam]

Leave an air gap between the outside air intake and the stove. Outside air has to be below the firebox at the highest point otherwise.

 

[Ludlow]

The stove has no idea if it is rigid or flex. I used rigid but straight out the back and through the wall. No drafts in the back rooms and when the oil furnace kicks on in the night or an exhaust fan is running there is no effect on the stove. I do avoid opening the stove door if the furnace is running, but that hardly ever happens. Mostly in the morning when the stove is cold.

 

[Highbeam]

Leave an air gap between the outside air intake and the stove. Outside air has to be below the firebox at the highest point otherwise.

I think you misunderstood his plan. Directly connect the oak pipe.

 

[jetsam]

I think you misunderstood his plan. Directly connect the oak pipe.

Ahh, the stove is upstairs. Never mind!