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Posted By FR9Ford,
Jan 12, 2018 at 10:29 PM
Ok got it, I'm a little late to party on this topic
Mark8. When I installed my insulated duraliner I stuffed roxul above my block off plate all up,in the smoke chamber area. I also stuffed roxul down from the top all around the rigid insulated liner as much and as far as I could before sealing the top cap to the masonry chimney liner. Every bit helps. I didn't stuff insulation around my actual insert as my masonry chimney is interior. The heat escaping out of the back of the masonry is only escaping into my home.
Stuffing roxul around a uninsulated liner is not a replacement for actually insulating a liner. It's better than nothing but in no way satisfies any necessity for insulation if there is one by code deficiencies of the existing chimney.
I am aware. Still thinking to pull the liner, insulate it and reinstall it.
I figured everyone was aware but had thought it might be prudent to mention it at this point. Just to keep things clear.
So bottom line is the more insulation the better and your not hurting anything by using to much. I thought I read somewhere to keep the flue connector uninsulated because you don't want to over heat that fitting.
The connector stove top-liner should be not insulated. From liner up insulate.
Is there a concern about rodents making nest in the Roxul.
If you have a chimney cap that prevents rodents to come in, no.
Those darn mice can fit through a hole the size of a dime and a skinny crack, I better make sure I seal off that block off plate really good.
If you have a masonry chimney, use a screen in your chimney cap. If you have a Class A chimney, it will be too slippery for mice to get up there.
Just a note, someone asked earlier and I didn't see any response - flexible chimney liners are usually insulated with a foil faced ceramic wool blanket, a poured insulation (one product name is Thermix) or, there is a new liner out now that has ceramic wool sandwiched between an inner and outer layer of flex stainless.
My liner is fully insulated right down as close as I could get it on the connector. That is the crimped end that connected to my insert. Only one piece of my two piece block off plate is on in the picture.
Well this brings up another point, and the more I read it's hard to remember every post on the subject, so I could be miss quoting. The installation instructions shows the insulation sleeve covering just up to the flex, one photo shows connecting the flex directly to the insert flue and the other picture shows using a flue connector not being insulated.
I've read somewhere that the flue connector is going to be the hottest part of your linner and the reason you don't want to insulate the connector is because you don't want to over heat that connector you want the heat to come off that connector into your fireplace to heat the stove.
Please Correct me if I'm wrong or did not understand.
Rodents don’t typically nest in mineral wool insulation. Plus, as others have mentioned, if done right, they shouldn’t be getting into the chimney.
You will not overheat the connector. And no you do not need the heat off of an uninsulated connector to heat your stove or fireplace. It's usually not imperative to insulate the connector but the chimney/liner is only going to perform better because of this extra insulation, not worse. I'd be curious if others have different thoughts or if you recall were you read that the connector/adapter shouldn't be insulated. Look at your last picture closely. It shows the insulated flex going directly to the insert.
If there was risk of overheating a few inch long connector by insulating it there would be strong warnings in the install instructions against it.