Block off plate question. Outside chimney tenp

[crepitus]

So I'm new to burning... Had the stove installed 2 weeks ago and have been burning 24/7 the last 10 days. No block off plate (of course installer said not needed). The stove takes a long time to get to 600 and won't stay there long. I lit a match and put it by the surround and it sucks the flame in. So I'm assuming I'm heating the chimney. Tonight I hit the outside chimney with infrared gun and it was 60 degrees. My question is that heat from the liner heat my chimney or the stove? Sorry for the long winded post. And a plate is going in first break of this cold. Was 12 last night

 

[Hogwildz]

The match told you all you need to know, and yes your heat is rising, and bleeding though the masonry to the outside world. I am not so sure that would stop the stove from getting & keeping up to temp though. Are you sure your wood ready to be burnt?

 

[jscs.moore]

So I'm new to burning... Had the stove installed 2 weeks ago and have been burning 24/7 the last 10 days. No block off plate (of course installer said not needed). The stove takes a long time to get to 600 and won't stay there long. I lit a match and put it by the surround and it sucks the flame in. So I'm assuming I'm heating the chimney. Tonight I hit the outside chimney with infrared gun and it was 60 degrees. My question is that heat from the liner heat my chimney or the stove? Sorry for the long winded post. And a plate is going in first break of this cold. Was 12 last night

Yeah...I went through the same nonsense with my dealer 3 years ago when I had my insert installed. I have a 28ft exterior chimney and had researched on this site the importance of a block off plate to keep cold masonry from sucking the heat up. When I asked the dealer he was completely dismissive of the BOP. Being a novice to all of this I backed off, but still had to push the dealer hard for insulated liner as he also said it wasn't needed? I insisted and paid extra for a Olympia pre-insulated liner.

First season of burning I went without the block off plate and noticed the same thing as you when the temps really started to drop...it took way too long to get the insert to cruising temp (450 - 550) and then the insert temp would start to drop way to quickly. After much feedback from the hearth.com gang I went to the dealer last year and told him I wanted a block off plate and would pay the extra cost myself (I have back issues and can't twist and contort into a chimney opening to do a job like that).

Long story short I got the block off plate last season and the difference is significant. The insert gets up to cruising temp much more quickly and stays at cruising temp for much longer! We also notice the first year without the block off plate that we never got cooked out of our living room...now with the BOP we have to be careful not to load up the firebox (N/S) in mild temps (high 30's/low 40's) because it's just too hot and become uncomfortable. We NEVER had that problem before we had the block off plate installed!

So the bottom line is if you have an exterior chimney, get the block off plate...you will not regret it.

 

[redktmrider]

Ditto on what jscs.moore said. If you have space between the insert and the masonry, put some roxul in that gap also. It is amazing how much heat masonry can soak up.

 

[crepitus]

Thanks for the advise and help. Bop coming soon. So you are also recommending placing roxul around the insert?

 

[redktmrider]

Yes, between the convection jacket and the masonry. Roxul is non-combustible and I think the melting point is around 2100- 2200 F.
I put in a block off plate and Roxul behind my Alderlea insert a few years after it was initially installed. Before the plate and Roxul, the heat pump would regularly kick on at about 20 F, after the plate and Roxul 10 F. This with a exterior brick chimney with a 6 inch liner installed.

 

[crepitus]

So I was doing some research on the site as well as looking at the manual. I think I found my issue as to why it took so long to get to operating temp. The installer (dont know if he deserves to be called one) did not take off the block off plate for inside air. Now she cranks up a lot faster.

But I have a few more questions. I am doing the BOP tomorrow. I have a heatalator insert. My plan was to pack the liner and area above the stove with Roxul as best as I can then make a plate that will go straight back from the top fireplace opening. The sides of the fireplace are metal from the heatalator. Is it ok to to it this way and just use sheet metal screws and screw the BOP to the heatalator box?

Also is it ok if the roxul touches the insert? I was planning on laying some all around the stove in between the heatalator and stove.

 

[kennyp2339]

Do you have a masonry fireplace with heatilator insert or a zero clearance fireplace?

 

[crepitus]

Masonry with heatilator insert

 

[redktmrider]

On my install, the roxul touches the outer convection jacket; causes no problems at all. You might want to be a little more careful around the firebox.

By the way, what stove do you have?

 

[kennyp2339]

I would just do the BOP with roxel, I wouldn't get crazy with going on the sides of the unit.

 

[crepitus]

I have the PE Summit insert.

 

[blacktail]

I have the PE Summit insert.

Masonry with heatilator insert

 

[mellow]

At a minimum install concrete board on the sides if you do not have room for roxul. Use the roxul and concrete boards on the back as that is where much of the wasted heat goes. The block off plate will help to keep that heat in as well which will be transferred out by the insert fan.

 

[Hogwildz]

So I was doing some research on the site as well as looking at the manual. I think I found my issue as to why it took so long to get to operating temp. The installer (dont know if he deserves to be called one) did not take off the block off plate for inside air. Now she cranks up a lot faster.

But I have a few more questions. I am doing the BOP tomorrow. I have a heatalator insert. My plan was to pack the liner and area above the stove with Roxul as best as I can then make a plate that will go straight back from the top fireplace opening. The sides of the fireplace are metal from the heatalator. Is it ok to to it this way and just use sheet metal screws and screw the BOP to the heatalator box?

Also is it ok if the roxul touches the insert? I was planning on laying some all around the stove in between the heatalator and stove.

Yep, have the exact same setup here. Block off plate just above the steel at the opening, self taping screws into the old firebox on 1" flanges bent around the perimeter of the block off plate. Silicone the edge seams, done.