Blocking plate? Yes or No

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Insulation then mesh and roxul? I thought roxul was the insulation? And mesh? Guess I need to search the forum again.
 
Insulation then mesh and roxul? I thought roxul was the insulation? And mesh? Guess I need to search the forum again.
It came with the stainless steel liner. You wrap it around the liner with some spray glue then put a chicken wire style mesh over it. I have a substantially wider flue than my liner. So I the a bunch of roxul down after I installed the liner. To cover more space.
 
Ah okay. As I've imagined it, stuff insulation around the liner at the base and put the plate in and seal. I think I read of someone insulating the entire length of their chimney, but it's much more mild of a winter here than there I think.
 
Ah okay. As I've imagined it, stuff insulation around the liner at the base and put the plate in and seal. I think I read of someone insulating the entire length of their chimney, but it's much more mild of a winter here than there I think.
You entire liner should be insulated. Does you chimney have the required clearance to combustibles? Most do not and If not it is required by code. But even if not required there is a significant performance advantage
 
The liner that's being installed is insulated, if that's what you mean? But that does mean there's still open air around outside the liner to the chimney wall right?
 
But that does mean there's still open air around outside the liner to the chimney wall right?
Yes there usually is if the liner is wrapped or preinsulated. That is why you need a block off plate to seal the bottom
 
  • Like
Reactions: robk
Oh, so if the liner is insulated, is there any need to stuff insulation up behind the plate?
 
Oh, so if the liner is insulated, is there any need to stuff insulation up behind the plate?
Yes it is still a good idea anything you can do to keep the heat from going up that chimney will help
 
Oh, so if the liner is insulated, is there any need to stuff insulation up behind the plate?
And there is nothing that requires a block off plate the install will be perfectly safe without it. But there are allot of benefits to doing it that way
 
Gotcha. Man, I'm so excited. Seems a little weird to be jazzed about a fireplace.

We moved about 2 years back from Southern California and now live in semi-rural Oregon. At least, we are outside of town. Trees, animals, chopping wood, and fireplaces. Every day is like a magical adventure. I love it here.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bholler
Once you gonna start burning it'll become an addiction really soon. Even more fun. Even my wife getting sad when temps are too high outside to run the stove .
 
There's going to be space. I don't know your setup at your house. I have a 10 inch flue and I installed a 6 inch liner. The hotter you can get your firebox the warmer the air will be going up the stack. What you don't want is to be cleaning your cap/animal guard in the middle of the winter.
 
Okay, thanks everyone for offering their opinions on the block-off plate or not. It seemed the consensus was to do the block-off plate, so I did. Here are 2 pics (before & after). Yes I will fill the small open area immediately around the liner with Roxul before shoving the stove in. Please lmk if anyone sees a problem with this fabrication & install. When doing the block off plate I noticed some small dents inside the liner which certainly happened form shoving it down. Does anyone feel that is problematic damage to the liner or something that happens on most liner installs?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20151010_101825502.jpg
    IMG_20151010_101825502.jpg
    345.5 KB · Views: 190
  • IMG_20151010_112239360.jpg
    IMG_20151010_112239360.jpg
    318.9 KB · Views: 168
Basically it would seem to me that if you blocked the air from around the edges of the façade (like the mfr suggests) you effectively block the draft that would go up where the blocking plate would be. The thing that festers for me is that I've read many on this much respected forum be of the opinion that a block off plate leaves the chimney exposed to more moisture decay because no heat gets up there to dry out condensate moisture. This is what I've gathered so far and welcome rebuttals/ideas to these observations.
I dont want to sound rood but why would u say I
 
When doing the block off plate I noticed some small dents inside the liner which certainly happened form shoving it down. Does anyone feel that is problematic damage to the liner or something that happens on most liner installs?
It happens with many installs of those smooth wall liners yes and in my opinion it is problematic which is why i will not use that type anymore. I can tell you those spots will collect more creosote and will probably fail sooner that the rest of the liner. It really is your call as the installer. If i was the installer i know what i would do but you wont like to hear it.
 
baysideburnerinsulation post: 1984131 said:
I dont want to sound rood but why would u say I
A few guys have said insulation by itself would do nothing when u insulate your house u air seal . Actually the air seal doesn't do crap compared to a layer of r60. So if the damper was like an attick as someone stated then the block off plate would be the sheetrock and there would be no way to stop the heat. I dont knkw who insulate s with wall board and some caulk. I would actually rather have Insulation than no plate one should actually be substituted for the other but both is better
 
A few guys have said insulation by itself would do nothing when u insulate your house u air seal . Actually the air seal doesn't do crap compared to a layer of r60. So if the damper was like an attick as someone stated then the block off plate would be the sheetrock and there would be no way to stop the heat. I dont knkw who insulate s with wall board and some caulk. I would actually rather have Insulation than no plate one should actually be substituted for the other but both is better
I agree both are important for sure
 
Thanks, the way the flu is shaped the liner comes in at an odd angle (front to back) relative to the stove pipe. So, I chose to leave myself the flexibility to be able to move it a bit to connect everything. Once connected I figured I would then fill the void with the Roxul. I am waiting for a 15 degree connector to arrive to help handle the liner angle.
 
It happens with many installs of those smooth wall liners yes and in my opinion it is problematic which is why i will not use that type anymore. I can tell you those spots will collect more creosote and will probably fail sooner that the rest of the liner. It really is your call as the installer. If i was the installer i know what i would do but you wont like to hear it.
What would you do?
 
It happens with many installs of those smooth wall liners yes and in my opinion it is problematic which is why i will not use that type anymore. I can tell you those spots will collect more creosote and will probably fail sooner that the rest of the liner. It really is your call as the installer. If i was the installer i know what i would do but you wont like to hear it.
I noticed you said you don't use that type anymore. What type do you use now for say relining an interior chimney that's just over 30' tall?
 
What would you do?
Tear it out and put a good liner in that is not damaged. I took out the only 2 liners of that type that i installed at my cost because i did not trust them


I noticed you said you don't use that type anymore. What type do you use now for say relining an interior chimney that's just over 30' tall?
We use heavy wall or occasionally mid weight liners for wood stoves but i would use regular light wall long before putting one of them in.
 
Yeah I put one of those in my chimney in 2006. Before the 2007 season started I pulled it and replaced it with light wall single ply liner because of the de-lamination in the thing. It was the famous one I threw off the roof into the woods and it is still there.

But go ahead and use it for a season or so and see how it does. The outer ply itself is the same as having a light wall single ply liner so it isn't gonna leak anything. I just had to do mine fast because I was already seeing the day coming when I couldn't be hustling liners up on roofs anymore and wanted to be settled in for the duration.
 
Yeah I put one of those in my chimney in 2006. Before the 2007 season started I pulled it and replaced it with light wall single ply liner because of the de-lamination in the thing. It was the famous one I threw off the roof into the woods and it is still there.

But go ahead and use it for a season or so and see how it does. The outer ply itself is the same as having a light wall single ply liner so it isn't gonna leak anything. I just had to do mine fast because I was already seeing the day coming when I couldn't be hustling liners up on roofs anymore and wanted to be settled in for the duration.
Wow, I am amazed to learn that it seems most of the consensus is that the double wall liners are bunk and the single wall liners get the nod. I was assuming double wall = twice as strong/durable, etc.. What is it about double wall that makes it a negative?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.