Boxwood Stove Turning White

[itsanaddiction]

I have an 18" X 24" Vogelzang standing boxwood stove that has turned white around the exterior rear and sides of the stove; also around the "collar" where the damper is. The area where it is turning white also seems to be the area where the fire burns the hottest. Anyone know why the stove is turning white???

 

[jeff_t]

It's a combination of cheap paint and uncontrollable fire due to a far from airtight stove.

 

[Todd]

Sure sign of overfire, get rid of that death box before you burn your house down and purchase a safe EPA approved stove.

 

[vvvv]

cheap paint, if the stove doesnt warp or u cant see fire thru the seams its fine, i think. probably should have a flue damper so to control the fire. blow a fan on that hotspot & it will cool the stove/heat the house. EPA stove has constant airfeed from 2ndary tubes & is MORE APT TO OVERFIRE. how tall is your chimney

 

[Shari]

The 'white' you are seeing is evidence of an over fired stove (running too hot!). Problems with over firing include but are not limited to seams on the stove failing with the internal fire spilling out inside your home.

As others have said: Dump the stove before it takes down your house and your family with it.

Since you are fairly new to hearth.com please do not consider members here snobs or anything by saying 'dump the stove'. There are wise wood burners here who strive for safe use and safe burning of wood stoves.

Replacing your stove may take some $$ but your safety and the safety of your family are paramount.

Again: Dump the stove a.s.a.p.

Shari

 

[firefighterjake]

Over-heated stove . . .

 

[Battenkiller]

We've seen so many photos of those two-toned stoves, and I think the consensus is that it is the crappy paint that is the primary culprit, likely decomposing at the unsafe stove temps that are unavoidable with that type of non-airtight stove. It's a terrible stove, and I think you would be much happier (and probably safer) by selling that one and getting an EPA-rated stove. You'll get a 30% tax credit on an EPA stove, and you will get a lot more bang for your buck wood-wise as well.

 

[vvvv]

We've seen so many photos of those two-toned stoves, and I think the consensus is that it is the crappy paint that is the primary culprit, likely decomposing at the unsafe stove temps that are unavoidable with that type of non-airtight stove. It's a terrible stove, and I think you would be much happier (and probably safer) by selling that one and getting an EPA-rated stove. You'll get a 30% tax credit on an EPA stove, and you will get a lot more bang for your buck wood-wise as well.

sorry but EPA stove is less airtight

 

[jeff_t]

EPA stove let air into the firebox where it is supposed to go, to support complete combustion. Overfire is possible with any woodburning appliance, but when you start with a bunch of leaks, you've already half lost the battle.

 

[Jags]

sorry but EPA stove is less airtight

Pook the air leaks that you speak of from the reburner tubes are in direct correlation to the amount of draft the stove is getting. The air you speak of is by design.

But with the death box the air leaks are just that. Leaks. No science in the design.

 

[branchburner]

Leaks by design are still leaks, as Pook says. The OP needs a stove that can be controlled - EPA approval not required. The secondary air in my EPA stove allows for little control. With bypass damper open, my EPA stove will overfire much more quickly than my father's non-EPA '75 VC Defiant.

 

[Todd]

I don't even think those boxwood stoves are UL listed and you would have a hard time finding an insurance company approve an install. If something did happen the insurance company may not pay up.

 

[Shari]

Leaks by design are still leaks, as Pook says. The OP needs a stove that can be controlled - EPA approval not required. The secondary air in my EPA stove allows for little control. With bypass damper open, my EPA stove will overfire much more quickly than my father's non-EPA '75 VC Defiant.

EPA rated and UL listed are both code requirements by our city inspectors and our homeowners insurance. My Oslo meets both requirements.

Shari

 

[Jags]

Leaks by design are still leaks, as Pook says. The OP needs a stove that can be controlled - EPA approval not required.

Unless you are familiar with the local install codes, I wouldn't bet on that. Some do - some don't.

 

[vvvv]

http://www.vogelzang.com/browse.cfm/standard-boxwood-stove/4,13.html clearances are listed

 

[Battenkiller]

We've seen so many photos of those two-toned stoves, and I think the consensus is that it is the crappy paint that is the primary culprit, likely decomposing at the unsafe stove temps that are unavoidable with that type of non-airtight stove. It's a terrible stove, and I think you would be much happier (and probably safer) by selling that one and getting an EPA-rated stove. You'll get a 30% tax credit on an EPA stove, and you will get a lot more bang for your buck wood-wise as well.

sorry but EPA stove is less airtight

No, Pook, you are wrong. In fact, they are so not-airtight that the EPA considers them to be in a separate class (minimum burn rate >5 kg/hour) and are, therefore, exempt.

 

[begreen]

cheap paint, if the stove doesnt warp or u cant see fire thru the seams its fine,

This is more than cheap paint. The stove overfires very easily due to its crude air regulation and lack of interior burnplates. Turn out the lights when the stove is burning hot. If it is glowing red, those sides are over 900 degrees and overfiring. Repeated overfires with these cheap castings will eventually lead to failure. When and how is hard to know. Hopefully this stove is in a cement block house on a concrete floor with no combustibles within at least 3ft. The stove is just at likely to crack at some point as warp. If the stove suddenly cracks during the night... ?

Putting a key damper and a thermometer on the flue pipe or stove top is a good idea so that you can regulated the stove better and know what temp it is burning at.

 

[vvvv]

We've seen so many photos of those two-toned stoves, and I think the consensus is that it is the crappy paint that is the primary culprit, likely decomposing at the unsafe stove temps that are unavoidable with that type of non-airtight stove. It's a terrible stove, and I think you would be much happier (and probably safer) by selling that one and getting an EPA-rated stove. You'll get a 30% tax credit on an EPA stove, and you will get a lot more bang for your buck wood-wise as well.

sorry but EPA stove is less airtight

No, Pook, you are wrong. In fact, they are so not-airtight that the EPA considers them to be in a separate class (minimum burn rate >5 kg/hour) and are, therefore, exempt.

so the 2ndary air intake doesnt result as a hole into the stove?

 

[Jags]

Putting a key damper...

They come with the stove BG. It appears that there design is so bad it REQUIRES one. :long:

 

[branchburner]

Two different discussions going on here. Various codes may or may not require EPA-approved stoves. But the EPA does require stoves to be leaky. So EPA approval is not required for a stove to have air supply that can be controlled.

 

[begreen]

sorry but EPA stove is less airtight

Technically, that could be correct if it weren't for the crude fitting castings and basic design. I'm curious, have you owned this stove? Do you know how tightly it can or can't be regulated even with the air control closed?

 

[Jags]

But the EPA does require stoves to be leaky.

True - but the difference is the "regulated" (i.e. EPA) leaky part.

 

[vvvv]

Putting a key damper...

They come with the stove BG. It appears that there design is so bad it REQUIRES one. :long:

LOL! wonder why key dampers have to be added to EPA stoves?

 

[branchburner]

We've seen so many photos of those two-toned stoves, and I think the consensus is that it is the crappy paint that is the primary culprit, likely decomposing at the unsafe stove temps that are unavoidable with that type of non-airtight stove. It's a terrible stove, and I think you would be much happier (and probably safer) by selling that one and getting an EPA-rated stove. You'll get a 30% tax credit on an EPA stove, and you will get a lot more bang for your buck wood-wise as well.

sorry but EPA stove is less airtight

No, Pook, you are wrong. In fact, they are so not-airtight that the EPA considers them to be in a separate class (minimum burn rate >5 kg/hour) and are, therefore, exempt.

I believe your stove (as designed) is more airtight than any EPA-approved stove, correct?

 

[vvvv]

We've seen so many photos of those two-toned stoves, and I think the consensus is that it is the crappy paint that is the primary culprit, likely decomposing at the unsafe stove temps that are unavoidable with that type of non-airtight stove. It's a terrible stove, and I think you would be much happier (and probably safer) by selling that one and getting an EPA-rated stove. You'll get a 30% tax credit on an EPA stove, and you will get a lot more bang for your buck wood-wise as well.

sorry but EPA stove is less airtight

No, Pook, you are wrong. In fact, they are so not-airtight that the EPA considers them to be in a separate class (minimum burn rate >5 kg/hour) and are, therefore, exempt.

I believe your stove (as designed) is more airtight than any EPA-approved stove, correct?

I believe the kids read the manual & then preach= religion not science