Where the brass bushing is,on the auger shouldn't their also be a washer or something else there? I thought I read there was one and I should get the new plastic washer. Thanks
BodfishSandy
BodfishSandy
Brass Bushing on Whitfield Auger
- Thread starter Sandra Boyd
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The brass bushing has no washer and is the same on many stoves. I have the brass bushing on my Avalon Astoria. Whitfields do have an upgrade kit that consist of:
Auger End Plate - Contents: 1 each - Endplate, Nylatron Bearing, Bearing Retainer Nut, Flat Vibration Pad,
Rubber Vibration Bumper (spacer), Spacer Washer, Machine Screw and Locknut.
Auger End Plate - Contents: 1 each - Endplate, Nylatron Bearing, Bearing Retainer Nut, Flat Vibration Pad,
Rubber Vibration Bumper (spacer), Spacer Washer, Machine Screw and Locknut.
Hi Thanks for reply. I''d like to say that I had this problem 1 yr. ago and it had to do with the gears (I think) it slipped and was not turning the auger. It was fixed I guess but it's not working now. When I turn it on the light flashes but nothing happens I just hear a slight humming nothing turns. I've been reading from a Mike Butkus here and I am more confused than ever. I would like to get in touch with him (or anybody who could help me) but do not know how. Thanks Sandy
It sounds like you may need a new auger motor and your auger chute cleaned out and sprayed with "Dry Moly Spray" You should have a professional look at it.
Dinger
Burning Hunk
In the late 90's I had a Whit insert as my primary heat. It quit feeding one day mid snowstorm. I yanked it out and took it to work to troubleshoot. The auger motor was running, but it didn't spin on the output side. We tore into the gearbox and discovered a small spacer worn to the point that the drive pinion was no longer engaging the gears in the box. (This was many moons ago but this is the jist of it). If I remember right, I found a small fiber washer that filled the space, and I was back in business.
Been a long time, but that is my memory of it.
Been a long time, but that is my memory of it.
Hi and Thanks I asked that in the very start about a washer or spacer and was told no didn't need one. But I thought I read that I did so it wouldn't slip out of the gears. What do I need then and where does it go? How do I take everything apart. I've gotten to the screw where you take out with that tool(can't remember name, I'm getting soo old lol) and then I'm lost what to do next. Sorry this is so confusing, but would appreciate any help I can get.I surely need it. Thanks so much - Sandy
Hi and Thanks I asked that in the very start about a washer or spacer and was told no didn't need one. But I thought I read that I did so it wouldn't slip out of the gears. What do I need then and where does it go? How do I take everything apart. I've gotten to the screw where you take out with that tool(can't remember name, I'm getting soo old lol) and then I'm lost what to do next. Sorry this is so confusing, but would appreciate any help I can get.I surely need it. Thanks so much - Sandy
Hi Sandra, As you can see from this very useful and instructive video from WoodHeatStoves.com, there's no washer in the Advantage stove here either.
This video should have most of the information you'll need to inspect and repair your Whitfield stove. Advantage, too?
With a little luck, however, the only thing that is wrong is slippage on the connection between the auger motor and the auger screw, due to a loose set screw. I believe this screw is called an allen screw, but please forgive me if I'm wrong. In danish we call it something else. See photo of allen screew. If you have an allen wrench, try to tighten it, but be sure that it is tighened only on the flat portion of the motor shaft, or else it will soon slip again. See photo.
This might do the trick. Good luck and keep us posted.
Bo
![[Hearth.com] Brass Bushing on Whitfield Auger](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/83/83764-68422e7e1100664bfe139df006d82f04.jpg?hash=McyyMDdGA5 "[Hearth.com] Brass Bushing on Whitfield Auger")
![[Hearth.com] Brass Bushing on Whitfield Auger](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/83/83765-9ed4223546c07a11e894760f79bcabe9.jpg?hash=H08n_Jr506 "[Hearth.com] Brass Bushing on Whitfield Auger")
This video should have most of the information you'll need to inspect and repair your Whitfield stove. Advantage, too?
With a little luck, however, the only thing that is wrong is slippage on the connection between the auger motor and the auger screw, due to a loose set screw. I believe this screw is called an allen screw, but please forgive me if I'm wrong. In danish we call it something else. See photo of allen screew. If you have an allen wrench, try to tighten it, but be sure that it is tighened only on the flat portion of the motor shaft, or else it will soon slip again. See photo.
This might do the trick. Good luck and keep us posted.
Bo
Thanks so much. I did tighten on flat side but maybe not enough going back to try again. (Will let you know what happens) Thanks again - Sandy
Dinger
Burning Hunk
http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_pellet_stove.htm
Read about half way down. This was what I experienced.
His photo.
http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_operate/img_0098.jpg
Read about half way down. This was what I experienced.
His photo.
http://www.butkus.org/whitfield_operate/img_0098.jpg
Dinger
Burning Hunk
This is a quote from the abovementioned link. I had this same challenge in about 2000-2001 area, and coincidentally found this article last year after searching around looking for pellet info.
"You will note, this is the problem, that the motor faces up at an angle. With the motor, and gearing off, I could turn the auger screw with no problem. That means nothing was locked between the screw and auger wall. A twig or something else falling into the auger could jam it good as the feeder motor is not made for power. I CAREFULLY plugged in the stove again while watching the Pellet Stove control panel to see the feed light go on and saw the motor spin but could not see the main any of the other gears turn. Oh, oh. A stripped gear or something bad. Knowing that this was a specialty item I assumed I was holding $95 or higher priced gearbox that was dead. (I received a message Dec. 23, 2001 that someone paid $107 for the motor and auger part from a link then found on my page.) After removing the power plug again and placing the plug by the motor location to make sure I knew it was unplugged I removed the plug to the motor/gearbox assembly. (DO NOT TAKE APART THE GEAR BOX - SOMEONE DID AND SPENT MONEY FOR A NEW ONE AS HE COULD NOT GET IT BACK TOGETHER) I took apart the gearbox making note of what screws came from where. Writing them on paper for correct reassembly. Opening the gearbox I find it full of greased gears and no metal filings that used to be gears. I then noted the problem.
(Update: getting to the back see if the small motor shaft can be pushed UP by 1/8 inch by your hand. If it can, see $.06 fix below)
After 35,000 hours the bottom motor gear's "fiber bushing" wore out and allowed this tilted motor to slide down. This moved the motor with a gear on it's shaft to lose contact with the first gear. So the motor was just spinning, not making contact with anything. This was caused by the back of the motor facing down wearing out that fiber washer. I was very happy. The back of the motor came off like any of these simple motors with two screws and two through bolts. I went off to find a replacement washer to push the motor up and touch the first gear again. I was unable to find a fiber one but did locate a metal washer that did the same thing. The metal washer went towards the back bushing and the old fiber washer in front protecting the armature of the motor. You can't replace that bushing with a metal washer as it will wear and make electrical contact with the motor, shorting it out. I'm sure I could have gone to the store and found a replacement fiber bushing the right size. I applied some synthetic motor oil to that bearing location on the motor. The front part of the motor is inside the gearing area and had lots of grease to lub it. Whitifeld states the blower motor bearings are "lubed for life" but I oiled them anyway with synthetic motor oil. Just a few drops into the holes. I replaced the motor, the electrical contact to the motor, the back and took out the cloth blocking the exhaust. I placed everything back together and started the stove with only a bit of fuel in the hopper to check the movement. The RED feed light went on, the screw turned. Happy, happy, joy, joy. This took about 45 minutes of time, not including locating my tools and stuff."
"You will note, this is the problem, that the motor faces up at an angle. With the motor, and gearing off, I could turn the auger screw with no problem. That means nothing was locked between the screw and auger wall. A twig or something else falling into the auger could jam it good as the feeder motor is not made for power. I CAREFULLY plugged in the stove again while watching the Pellet Stove control panel to see the feed light go on and saw the motor spin but could not see the main any of the other gears turn. Oh, oh. A stripped gear or something bad. Knowing that this was a specialty item I assumed I was holding $95 or higher priced gearbox that was dead. (I received a message Dec. 23, 2001 that someone paid $107 for the motor and auger part from a link then found on my page.) After removing the power plug again and placing the plug by the motor location to make sure I knew it was unplugged I removed the plug to the motor/gearbox assembly. (DO NOT TAKE APART THE GEAR BOX - SOMEONE DID AND SPENT MONEY FOR A NEW ONE AS HE COULD NOT GET IT BACK TOGETHER) I took apart the gearbox making note of what screws came from where. Writing them on paper for correct reassembly. Opening the gearbox I find it full of greased gears and no metal filings that used to be gears. I then noted the problem.
(Update: getting to the back see if the small motor shaft can be pushed UP by 1/8 inch by your hand. If it can, see $.06 fix below)
After 35,000 hours the bottom motor gear's "fiber bushing" wore out and allowed this tilted motor to slide down. This moved the motor with a gear on it's shaft to lose contact with the first gear. So the motor was just spinning, not making contact with anything. This was caused by the back of the motor facing down wearing out that fiber washer. I was very happy. The back of the motor came off like any of these simple motors with two screws and two through bolts. I went off to find a replacement washer to push the motor up and touch the first gear again. I was unable to find a fiber one but did locate a metal washer that did the same thing. The metal washer went towards the back bushing and the old fiber washer in front protecting the armature of the motor. You can't replace that bushing with a metal washer as it will wear and make electrical contact with the motor, shorting it out. I'm sure I could have gone to the store and found a replacement fiber bushing the right size. I applied some synthetic motor oil to that bearing location on the motor. The front part of the motor is inside the gearing area and had lots of grease to lub it. Whitifeld states the blower motor bearings are "lubed for life" but I oiled them anyway with synthetic motor oil. Just a few drops into the holes. I replaced the motor, the electrical contact to the motor, the back and took out the cloth blocking the exhaust. I placed everything back together and started the stove with only a bit of fuel in the hopper to check the movement. The RED feed light went on, the screw turned. Happy, happy, joy, joy. This took about 45 minutes of time, not including locating my tools and stuff."
Ok but what type of washer (how big, thick) and where exactly does it go.? Like I said, still unable to view video to see if it would help me.Don't know anything about getting to gear box and how to get it out.
Thanks so much for all info everyone has given. Sandy
Thanks so much for all info everyone has given. Sandy
Dinger
Burning Hunk
As said above, you may want to involve a pro. Being a mechanic and tinkerer, I usually dive right into just about everything. Sometimes it doesn't work out though. Maybe involving a pro may be a faster repair for you?
Video didn't help at all. Plays for 3 seconds, then stops for 4 minutes parts are missing. No hlp but thanks anyway
Dinger
Burning Hunk
This is his picture, the Butkus person. The motor armature has dropped back a little, disengaging the drive end from the driven gear. Mine did this same thing. If you can move this shaft a little, you may have the same problem. This shaft will spin while the motor is energized, but no movement on the output side. The fiber washer (most hardware stores have hundreds of choices for small money) would go right below the "Blue" spacre in the second photo. The fix is super easy. The challenge is getting to the gearbox, but now you know what it should look like.
Good luck.
![[Hearth.com] Brass Bushing on Whitfield Auger](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/84/84010-d487697b00e52ae20f69cef2d309ec26.jpg?hash=sB9bcbvLUr "[Hearth.com] Brass Bushing on Whitfield Auger")
![[Hearth.com] Brass Bushing on Whitfield Auger](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/84/84011-89730a6333b2841e5906df4854e2dc6e.jpg?hash=P_blOgf0h_ "[Hearth.com] Brass Bushing on Whitfield Auger")
Good luck.
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