Brave Splitter Valve Leaking

[SolarAndWood]

I put this valve on the splitter I came across a few years ago. Other than new hoses from the valve to the tractor, I haven't done anything but split something on the order of 45 cord with it. This morning it started blowing fluid out the top of the valve between the cap and the cast body. Before I take it apart, does anyone know if I am looking for a bad seal or is this a blowoff and something is plugged somewhere? Thanks...Eric

 

[triptester]

The silver cap on the top of the valve is only cover for the detent, leakage in that area indicates a bad o-ring on the spool. Pay close attention when removing the cover it contains a sleeve ,a spring ,and balls for the detent. There is also a nut and stud that is Loctited in.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Thanks triptester. I've got it apart and will see the good folks at NAPA in the morning to replace the o-ring that failed.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Back up and running...thanks again. Do you know where I might find a parts diagram/parts source for it?

 

[ansehnlich1]

that looks like the valve on my old brave. Mine won't stay in the "return" position like it's supposed to. any idea why it won't?

 

[triptester]

There are a couple possible causes for the detent not holding. The adjustment might have worked loose or the ball and grooves may be worn. I had a valve that had a broken adjustment screw that would not hold in detent and would also cause the cylinder to move with out operating the valve.

Most of these valves are considered to inexpensive to be professionally repaired unless you find a small one man shop and he feels kind that morning.

 

[savageactor7]

So it was the O ring... that great you got fixed so fast.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Triptester was spot on. 99 cents at NAPA and good to go. They aren't bad to take apart and the ball bearings and o-rings seem to be common variety that any NAPA will have. I even got some work done today...

 

[SolarAndWood]

I hooked the splitter back up this morning after not using it for 3 1/2 months. It made almost one split before the O-ring failed again. I assume its time for a new valve?

 

[Gooserider]

I hooked the splitter back up this morning after not using it for 3 1/2 months. It made almost one split before the O-ring failed again. I assume its time for a new valve?

Could well be - the other possibility is if it's the wrong material in the o-ring - not all are happy about hydraulic oil exposure. Another possibility is if it is making a "sliding seal" where the parts the o-ring seals against move back and forth - again some materials are designed for a static seal where once the o-ring is in place it is semi-permanently sealed into place, and the parts don't move.

NAPA parts are usually pretty good, but it might still be worth checking with a local hydraulics shop to make sure you are using the right part...

Gooserider

 

[SolarAndWood]

I hooked the splitter back up this morning after not using it for 3 1/2 months. It made almost one split before the O-ring failed again. I assume its time for a new valve?

Could well be - the other possibility is if it's the wrong material in the o-ring - not all are happy about hydraulic oil exposure. Another possibility is if it is making a "sliding seal" where the parts the o-ring seals against move back and forth - again some materials are designed for a static seal where once the o-ring is in place it is semi-permanently sealed into place, and the parts don't move.

NAPA parts are usually pretty good, but it might still be worth checking with a local hydraulics shop to make sure you are using the right part...

Gooserider

It is definitely something like that. It was working fine, got halfway through a big locust round, when it hit the crotch it blew over. When I took it apart, the o-ring was obliterated.

 

[kevin j]

You may have too much return line back pressure. The tank or return line connects internally to the spring end cavity of the valve usually. Given a 3 pt splitter? assuming through quick couplers on the hoses, they could be restrictive. Check the return line pressure when retracting. This is the max flow condition through the valve. (It is pump flow time the cylinder area ratio of the two sides. 5 gpm into the rod side may push out 7 or 8 gpm out the closed side, etc.)
Back pressure on an implement cylinder doesn't matter, but having the tank cavity of a valve pressurized may be too much.

Other cause could be material. Hardware store o rings are often neoprene for water. NAPA kits are usually nitrile (Buna N) for oil and they should work fine. Either 70 or 90 durometer (hardness) should work just fine.

Is this a sliding seal on the oring spool, or static seal on the end cap only? Are there any scoring marks on the spool?

One more thing: are the hoses hooked up correctly? If you put P on the return side, it would go. You'd also have no functioning relief valve in that valve (I assume there is still one in the tractor valve though). But the detent would act either wrong direction or not at all.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Because the flow on the tractor is pretty low anyway, I tee'd the line to the loader and put ball valves in to isolate loader/splitter. It's possible something has gotten plugged. I don't think there is a relief valve on the tractor other than the transmission? The shop manual has a procedure for pressure testing the system; I'll take a look at it this week.

The valve has never worked very well compared to a piece of industrial equipment. However, over the last year, it has been behaving very poorly and getting progressively worse. When I changed the o-ring in April, it made it functional but it still was anything but smooth. I have less than $150 in the splitter and it certainly has proven its worth. It is probably time to find a decent valve for it. Any suggestions?

 

[SolarAndWood]

I don't think there is a relief valve on the tractor other than the transmission?

Strike that, there is a System Relief Diverter valve that dumps back into the sump.