Some kind of internal baffle will definitely help and probably increase efficiency. The auger as a turbulator is pretty neat.A cap can be a nuisance because steam coming out the chimney can condense on it and splatter.
I've heard of flame out of a Hardy as was mentioned, somewhere I read of someone who hung a short piece of auger in the lower part of the chimney to exchange the heat better and cut out sparks.
We basically had the same situation, but at least we have a tiny indoor stove, so bio bricks worked for us. Our house is still a work in progress now two years later!I agree with SpaceBus-the Hardy’s are not picky about wood and will burn most any wood seasoned or not. Keep an eye on Craigslist-specifically the what’s for free tab and you will find free wood regularly, provided you have a way to haul it. Pine will burn just fine, creosote is not a problem with the outdoor stove. Even when I didn’t find free wood, I could generally find some cheap loads already cut up. Like you, I have thousands of acres of national forest land around me. There are a lot of houses around my area that burn and when a tree falls, it doesn’t stay long.
I certainly understand all the other projects thing. Moving into a new home and making it the way you want it is an exciting time.
Yup, they will...but you are just perpetuating the reputation that OWB's have as super smoke dragons...the reason they are banned in many towns/cities and now federally too...they still smoke some with dry wood too, but a fraction of what you get with truly dry wood (unless ran with storage where they can be left to burn wide open through the whole load)the Hardy’s are not picky about wood and will burn most any wood seasoned or not.
I would not leave the foam in as a cap. My cap is nothing more than a piece of stove pipe with a round top held in place with silicone, however, it does not completely close off. There is actually a faded note on the stack saying not to seal it off. Last season, I did not get the bottom door closed all the way one morning and the fire got extremely hot and was boiling the water. The pressure relief valve did release as well and I had to replace it as it would leak constantly. I will try to get a picture of mine this evening.Liam, I have a correction if needed. The vent tube should have a metal cap. The tube should not be sealed with silicone. If the piece of foam is used as the cap, it should be left in place. If open then debris will get in the water tank. Which could obstruct the heat exchanger.
So didn’t the blower fan kick on to get the fire burning hot? It usually scares the crap out of me as soon as I plug it in. It should keep running until the water reaches temperatureI lit the Hardy this morning. It took me six attempts to get a fire started in that thing and I finally had to go old school and start with a tiny teepee of kindling and feed it very slowly. I think I have it going now so I'm planning on watching it for a few hours to be certain. I'd like to get a bed of coals upon which to work and add a log or two just to keep it going, for today.
Most of my firewood is not dried or seasoned and I don't have enough to keep it fired for an extended period so I'll let it go out sometime later today. This is just a test run. I've already discovered that the fittings for the water pump were not tight enough and the pump mount was leaking so I tightened those enough to stop the leak.
It's been smoking now for almost thirty minutes and the tiny fire I've lit is burning into the logs I laid under that so I think it'll keep going. Y'all talk about learning curves with these things but it seems to me that everything about this method of heating is going to be a learning experience.
CountryLiving: NOPE. We have a problem. (I'm not surprised.)So didn’t the blower fan kick on to get the fire burning hot? It usually scares the crap out of me as soon as I plug it in. It should keep running until the water reaches temperature