Hello.
We're in the process of buying a house. There are several repairs needed and updates we want to do, one of which is replacing the current electric baseboard heat with a much more cost effective system.
I live in Michigan's UP.
Heating degree days are about 9500. Design temperature is -20F
Using Gary's heat loss calculator on builditsolar I have an estimated design loss of just under 75k btu/hr.
The house is two floors plus a full basement, built in 1991. Exterior dimensions are approximately 24'x32'. 2x6 walls, I'm assuming standard fiberglass insulation, and I'll be going up to R38 with blown fiberglass in the second story ceiling after we close. I'll also tighten up all the air infiltration points I can - lights, electrical outlets, holes through the siding for cable, basement rim joist penetrations, etc.
Heat source:
Natural gas is not available.
I could but do not want to retrofit a forced air system as the primary heat source due to noise and LP costs.
We are leaning against a wood stove because it wouldn't fit well on the main floor and I do not want to drag wood downstairs daily.
That leaves a hydronic system, powered by a ground source heat pump, or a wood boiler. Decent hardwood (hard maple and oak) is available locally for me to cut, or cut, split, and delivered for under $150 a cord. We had a Pacific Energy wood stove in our previous house, and burned between about 6 cords a year, much of which I c/s/s myself.
I'm leaning towards a gasifying wood boiler, placed in its own building detached from the house.
Heat delivery:
I can access the underside of the first floor from the basement easily for staple up . The first floor is approximately 2/3 oak finish floor and 1/3 tile. The second floor is currently but will be replaced with oak. I could install 1/2" pex or pex-al-pex with aluminum panels in a sleeper arrangement in the second floor before I put down the wood flooring. Or I could install panel radiators, both upstairs and down.
I'm leaning towards panel radiators in the upstairs (3 bedrooms, 2 full baths) and staple up under the first floor and leaving the existing electric baseboards in place as back up.
Other considerations:
We have young kids. We do not go away during the winter often, but the house and any outdoor system components need to have some form of freeze protection or prevention if we went to visit family or to Florida for a week.
If outdoors, twice a day loading, *maybe* three times a day during the coldest two months of the year, would be reasonable. The door at the top of the basement stairs is 32" wide, so any indoor storage would have to fit. 500 gallon LP tanks for storage are out, 125s or one of the bladder type are a possibility, probably a maximum of 500 gallons indoors. Outdoors in the wood burner building, 1000+ gallons would be possible.
I'm not all that interested in summertime DHW production, but including the future ability
The house is currently all electric, but I will be installing LP for a gas stove, which I was going to run off of large DOT tanks. LP backup of some sort for the times we are gone could be a possibility.
I would be doing all or nearly all installation work myself.
I'm reading and learning as much as I can from the links and threads here in this forum.
I've seen a few install threads. Feel free to point me to others if you have done something similar.
Can what I want be done for $10k (excluding the building for the boiler)?
Is there ANY reason to consider a smoky outdoor wood boiler?
I'm REALLY interested in and would appreciate any suggestions you may have on system suggestions.
Thanks!
Jeff
We're in the process of buying a house. There are several repairs needed and updates we want to do, one of which is replacing the current electric baseboard heat with a much more cost effective system.
I live in Michigan's UP.
Heating degree days are about 9500. Design temperature is -20F
Using Gary's heat loss calculator on builditsolar I have an estimated design loss of just under 75k btu/hr.
The house is two floors plus a full basement, built in 1991. Exterior dimensions are approximately 24'x32'. 2x6 walls, I'm assuming standard fiberglass insulation, and I'll be going up to R38 with blown fiberglass in the second story ceiling after we close. I'll also tighten up all the air infiltration points I can - lights, electrical outlets, holes through the siding for cable, basement rim joist penetrations, etc.
Heat source:
Natural gas is not available.
I could but do not want to retrofit a forced air system as the primary heat source due to noise and LP costs.
We are leaning against a wood stove because it wouldn't fit well on the main floor and I do not want to drag wood downstairs daily.
That leaves a hydronic system, powered by a ground source heat pump, or a wood boiler. Decent hardwood (hard maple and oak) is available locally for me to cut, or cut, split, and delivered for under $150 a cord. We had a Pacific Energy wood stove in our previous house, and burned between about 6 cords a year, much of which I c/s/s myself.
I'm leaning towards a gasifying wood boiler, placed in its own building detached from the house.
Heat delivery:
I can access the underside of the first floor from the basement easily for staple up . The first floor is approximately 2/3 oak finish floor and 1/3 tile. The second floor is currently but will be replaced with oak. I could install 1/2" pex or pex-al-pex with aluminum panels in a sleeper arrangement in the second floor before I put down the wood flooring. Or I could install panel radiators, both upstairs and down.
I'm leaning towards panel radiators in the upstairs (3 bedrooms, 2 full baths) and staple up under the first floor and leaving the existing electric baseboards in place as back up.
Other considerations:
We have young kids. We do not go away during the winter often, but the house and any outdoor system components need to have some form of freeze protection or prevention if we went to visit family or to Florida for a week.
If outdoors, twice a day loading, *maybe* three times a day during the coldest two months of the year, would be reasonable. The door at the top of the basement stairs is 32" wide, so any indoor storage would have to fit. 500 gallon LP tanks for storage are out, 125s or one of the bladder type are a possibility, probably a maximum of 500 gallons indoors. Outdoors in the wood burner building, 1000+ gallons would be possible.
I'm not all that interested in summertime DHW production, but including the future ability
The house is currently all electric, but I will be installing LP for a gas stove, which I was going to run off of large DOT tanks. LP backup of some sort for the times we are gone could be a possibility.
I would be doing all or nearly all installation work myself.
I'm reading and learning as much as I can from the links and threads here in this forum.
I've seen a few install threads. Feel free to point me to others if you have done something similar.
Can what I want be done for $10k (excluding the building for the boiler)?
Is there ANY reason to consider a smoky outdoor wood boiler?
I'm REALLY interested in and would appreciate any suggestions you may have on system suggestions.
Thanks!
Jeff