Can a cast iron part be replaced with steel?

[Browngriz]

I have a 2001 Waterford Ashling that has a cracked cast door part called the side door protection plate. This will be the second time it has cracked and had to be replaced. Lehman's wants $100 + shipping, and a 3-6 month wait to get it from Ireland. I don't have an issue with Lehman's, I doubt this is a big money maker for them. I was wondering if I can have a local fabricator make the part out of steel. The part does take on full woodbox heat and presumably protects the exterior door from becoming a safety hazard should anyone accidentally touch it. Would a steel part warp immediately? Would the exterior door itself warp? Any thoughts on durability or something else I am missing anything else?

 

[begreen]

It could be would be worth a try with some 1/4 steel plate cut to fit. Is there a layer of kaowool insulation between the door and this plate? If not, maybe add one for the steel substitute?

 

[Browngriz]

It could be would be worth a try with some 1/4 steel plate cut to fit. Is there a layer of kaowool insulation between the door and this plate? If not, maybe add one for the steel substitute?

No it doesn't, but that would be a good addition to help protect the stove exterior. I'll take some photos to a fabricator and see if they think they can do it for less than ~$125.00.

 

[begreen]

Bring the part to the fabricator as a template. It should be easy to make one with a plasma cutter.

How is this part held in place? How many bolts?

 

[Browngriz]

Bring the part to the fabricator as a template. It should be easy to make one with a plasma cutter.

How is this part held in place? How many bolts?

Just one bolt in the center.

 

[begreen]

That's what it looked like. I wonder if that is part of the problem?

 

[rwhite]

Why not try and have it welded?

 

[WES999]

Drill a hole at the end of the crack and fill it with furnace cement and it will probably be fine.

 

[MagKarl]

If that were mine, I'd probably let it go until it actually broke. When it finally broke, I'd weld it. If/when it broke again, I'd have zero problem cutting a piece of steel plate to replace the cast piece.

 

[Browngriz]

I was under the impression you cannot weld cast materials?

 

[ckr74]

I was under the impression you cannot weld cast materials?

You can but it will most likely crack somewhere else. Cast is very brittle. I like Begreen's idea. I think 1/4 plate will last a long time and it doesn't appear that it will be hard to fabricate.

 

[rwhite]

You can but it will most likely crack somewhere else. Cast is very brittle. I like Begreen's idea. I think 1/4 plate will last a long time and it doesn't appear that it will be hard to fabricate.

Cast is always a crap shoot when welding but I have seen it survive very well, as well as crack (usually very near the weld). A method that always served me well was to drill several holes along the crack and put screws in them the weld the screws and over weld the entire thing. Beings that this is not a piece that gets excessive strain or pressure the drill and cement method may work just as well.

 

[zig]

Cast is tricky. It has to be cleaned, brought up to a certain temp and welded with the right rod. I've done it many times but not on anything as important as a stove. Plate steel gets my vote to replace it with.

 

[ckr74]

Cast is always a crap shoot when welding but I have seen it survive very well, as well as crack (usually very near the weld). A method that always served me well was to drill several holes along the crack and put screws in them the weld the screws and over weld the entire thing. Beings that this is not a piece that gets excessive strain or pressure the drill and cement method may work just as well.

My dad used to weld cast with nickel rod. It needs to be preheated to have any chance at all. I think the stress is the heating and cooling of the metal but that doesn't make sense because most stoves have cast doors and or body components. Might be that the cast is thinner in that spot than it appears. That piece might be good for a long time as long as it doesn't fall apart.

 

[Browngriz]

Thanks for all of the great suggestions. I'll see what a fabricator wants for the job in thick steel. If I feel that is too much, I'll see what they think about welding, or if they can or want to even do it. This is at least the third of fourth replacement for this part, and I have given up on the cast andiron bracket many years ago. I could only get 2-4 years out of them before they warped and cracked. We use the stove for 90-95% of our heating in a 1500 sq foot house and we do like it warm.

I think some of theses stoves are more for looks than durability. We had a 1980's Kent stove that was the best. I wish I could still buy one; basically a square box, no special reburner that I remember, no window, no enamel, but could hold a fire all night, and probably cost $4-500 bucks back in the day. Ahh, the good old dirty burning days.

 

[Flamestead]

I was under the impression you cannot weld cast materials?

I have had hay baler "needles" welded. It is beyond my skill, but we have a great shop nearby. He heats the whole thing, welds, and then packs it in insulation to sloooowly cool. They have lasted great (until the foolish operator (me) runs the baler out of time and breaks them again).