Can you put a damper in double walled pipe?

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Mad Tom

Member
Jan 19, 2010
244
Vermont
I have an Oslo with about 20' of pipe. One elbow going into the thimble and a urn to head straight up. Someone told me I could heat better if I put a damper in. I have double walled leaving stove for 3 ' before the elbow. It is a adjustable pipe and at about full extension.
 
Can you put a dampner in- sure. Do you need to-I don't know. I put one in on my old Timberline, 8" pipe, and it helped. Others with much more experience should chime in, but the issue of dampners comes up frequently. It'll end up being your call, whether to install one or not.
 
Besides doing it yourself, I've been looking at double-walled pipe lately and have seen the pipe sections available with a damper installed. By the factory, I mean. I have been looking at Selkirk, and they definitely offer them. Don't know about other brands, but I imagine they'd have them, too. I haven't yet used adjustable pipe, don't know about that.
 
Mad Tom said:
I have an Oslo with about 20' of pipe. One elbow going into the thimble and a urn to head straight up. Someone told me I could heat better if I put a damper in. I have double walled leaving stove for 3 ' before the elbow. It is a adjustable pipe and at about full extension.

Unless you have an overdraft problem, I don't think you need one. I had a long straight run of chimney, so I had a damper added to my
initial installation (double walled). There were no overdraft issues, so I took it out the next year. In our current house, I have a couple of
turns like you and didn't even consider a damper.

Do you have a sputtering fire? Do you have a fire that burns wildly even after the primary is shut all the way off? The damper can help in
the latter circumstance.
 
I've got a Selkirk if you want it. I've never used it, so I took it out the last time I cleaned the pipe. I got tired of working around it.
 
northwinds said:
Mad Tom said:
I have an Oslo with about 20' of pipe. One elbow going into the thimble and a urn to head straight up. Someone told me I could heat better if I put a damper in. I have double walled leaving stove for 3 ' before the elbow. It is a adjustable pipe and at about full extension.

Unless you have an overdraft problem, I don't think you need one. I had a long straight run of chimney, so I had a damper added to my
initial installation (double walled). There were no overdraft issues, so I took it out the next year. In our current house, I have a couple of
turns like you and didn't even consider a damper.

Do you have a sputtering fire? Do you have a fire that burns wildly even after the primary is shut all the way off? The damper can help in
the latter circumstance.


No sputter and no wild fires. Though when I shut it completely down if it looks like it might run away it doesn't slow down to fast. I was told it would help throw out more heat. My dealer said I didn't need one. Though he never saw my setup. I guess I will just leave it alone and not muck anything up. Thanks for every ones input.
 
I think the dealer is correct. With 2 90 deg turns on a 20 ft pipe, you don't need more restriction. Get used to the new stove without additional tinkering. It will burn differently. What you are seeing when you close down the air sounds like good secondary combustion. In the old stoves when you closed it down, the stove would just smolder, belching unburnt wood gas as smoke up the flue. Instead, the new stove is burning it off with secondary combustion fed by air that is not controlled by the primary air control. This is normal. Go out and take a look at the chimney, bet you don't see any smoke. And if the wood is dry, at the end of the season there won't be a lot of creosote either.
 
I agree with BeGreen on this one. Most stoves and installs just do not need the damper. In the old stoves we always had one but these new stoves are much better than those old stoves. This is just one more instance of old ideas being passed on just like the old guys who cut their wood in the fall and burn in the winter; no time for drying the wood. Many of the old skills of wood burning can be thrown right out the window now. Okay, I'm an old guy, but you can teach some old guys new tricks too.
 
And I agree with BeGreen and Dennis . . . I have 3 or 4 feet of double wall pipe that comes up and then goes out and up another 16 or 20 feet . . . no over draft issues . . . and no need for a damper . . . in my own opinion the damper is something that had its time and place (and still has a time and place once in awhile) . . . the problem is a lot of folks will say you need one . . . simply because that's what their stove had/has when they installed it years ago.

I suspect BG nailed it on the head . . . sounds like what you were seeing was the secondary burn . . . which is a good thing.
 
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