Can't control fire anymore

[Moet]

Last year had to replace converter on my Defiant 2460 model wood stove. I replace all gaskets at that time also. Now when trying to shut stove down to slow the burn it won't shut down. In the past 20 years of using this stove I could keep coals for over 24 hours now i might be able to keep them for eight. I have tried the dollar test, smoke test were I move a smoking stick all around to look for leaks. I am wondering if it could be the main bypass damper. But any suggestion would be appreciated

 

[begreen]

Is this a Defiant or a Dutchwest 2460?

It could be leakage around the cat. How did the refractory look there? Did the new cat have a gasket and did that get properly installed with the cat?

 

[Diabel]

Is the flame very active once the bypass is closed and primary air completely shut?

 

[Moet]

I believe it is a Dutchwest it says on the tag in the back. it has a cat that sits right on top firebox with a insulation piece on top. then the top has a gasket which replaced before bolting it down with the 4 bolts in the corners of the top. I also replaced the insulation piece at the same time. I don't recall any other gaskets. Is there a place where i can find detail blow up of the unit to see if maybe I missed a seal somewhere.

 

[Moet]

Yes the flame is active . I just cannot control it like I used for the past 20 years. maybe I miss something when reinstalling new cat and insulation cap piece

 

[begreen]

I believe it is a Dutchwest it says on the tag in the back. it has a cat that sits right on top firebox with a insulation piece on top. then the top has a gasket which replaced before bolting it down with the 4 bolts in the corners of the top. I also replaced the insulation piece at the same time. I don't recall any other gaskets. Is there a place where i can find detail blow up of the unit to see if maybe I missed a seal somewhere.

OK, not a Defiant then. Looks like the cat is supposed to have an Interam gasket wrapped around it.

• If the combustor is in good condition and clean, re-install it. Be sure first to carefully wrap a new Interam gasket (an extra was provided with your stove) around its perimeter before replacement. Insert the gasketed combustor gently back into position, and replace the refractory package.

 

[Moet]

Just looking at brake down drawling . It looks like a part # 54 a interam gasket. which I did not see when I took it a part because it must have been destroyed over the years. do you think that'.s the problem

 

[Diabel]

Good call Begreen.

If it calls for a gasket, then one should be there. Lots of flames in the firebox usually means outside air intrusion into the fire box. Try wrapping the cat in a gasket first. Then see what happens.

 

[begreen]

Just looking at brake down drawling . It looks like a part # 54 a interam gasket. which I did not see when I took it a part because it must have been destroyed over the years. do you think that'.s the problem

If everything else is in good shape then yes. It's possible flue gases are going around the cat.

 

[webby3650]

That gasket isn’t going to make much of any noticeable difference. The stove has to intake air in order to exhaust it, much like a car. It’s getting extra air somewhere. Pull your ashpan out and latch the door. This will eliminate build up in the back of the ashpan from preventing the door from sealing all the way around.
This is a pretty old stove that’s bolted together, very well could just be ready to retire or rebuild.

 

[Burnmeister]

I am having the same problem with my Oslo. Even small 3 piece loads run away quickly. I did just recently have a stove tech change all my moving gaskets, and I have had the problem since.
My side load door is also now covered in flakey creosote around the locking latch and never was before.

I just did a bill test on the side and front doors and I was able to pull the bill out in areas on both doors. Should the bill come out at all, or should that bill be snug tight in there?

This is my 3rd season with the stove, but all these problems are new and was the first time I had the gaskets changed.

 

[webby3650]

I am having the same problem with my Oslo. Even small 3 piece loads run away quickly. I did just recently have a stove tech change all my moving gaskets, and I have had the problem since.
My side load door is also now covered in flakey creosote around the locking latch and never was before.

I just did a bill test on the side and front doors and I was able to pull the bill out in areas on both doors. Should the bill come out at all, or should that bill be snug tight in there?

This is my 3rd season with the stove, but all these problems are new and was the first time I had the gaskets changed.

3 seasons is a very short life for an Oslo gasket. Was this preventive or were they failing?
The bill should have pretty good resistance even if you can pull it through. With a new gasket, it typically won’t budge.

 

[Burnmeister]

3 seasons is a very short life for an Oslo gasket. Was this preventive or were they failing?
The bill should have pretty good resistance even if you can pull it through. With a new gasket, it typically won’t budge.

On the side door the cement gave out and half the gasket fell out around mid October. The stove tech said he was just going to change them all.

The tech did the install on my stove when he was with another company. He has since ventured on his own, so I was confident calling him to do it. But it seems it wasn't done well.


And where Imwas able to pull the bill in a few places, there was little resistance.

 

[webby3650]

Perhaps it’s not an OEM gasket.. it’s likely a generic gasket.

 

[Burnmeister]

Perhaps it’s not an OEM gasket.. it’s likely a generic gasket.

Am I able to get OEM from Jotul?

 

[webby3650]

Am I able to get OEM from Jotul?

Your dealer should have it

 

[webby3650]

Have you called the guy back so he has the chance to make it right?

 

[Burnmeister]

Have you called the guy back so he has the chance to make it right?

I did. I left him a detailed message stating the creasote build up inside the door, but he never returned my call.

 

[webby3650]

I did. I left him a detailed message stating the creasote build up inside the door, but he never returned my call.

Make sure he knows the stove is uncontrollable.

 

[Burnmeister]

Well, he came back and swapped out all the gaskets before Christmas. Agian. But I seem to be having the same problem. Wants to run away on me; especially at night. During the day I use smaller, 3 split loads and load it up at night, but it goes berzerk now if I go more than 3 or 4 splits
I got it to slow down the other day by pressing on the doors to get that seal tighter.
Its either the stove, or Im losing confidence running it. And Im getting to the point where Im too nervous to walk away from it at night.

Can anyone think what I might be doing wrong?

 

[Woody Stover]

I don't recall any other gaskets. Is there a place where i can find detail blow up of the unit to see if maybe I missed a seal somewhere...I have tried the dollar test, smoke test were I move a smoking stick all around to look for leaks.

Did you dollar-test or smoke-test the ash pan door? Where else did you test?
Since you replaced the gasket for the top, I wouldn't do that again. I don't think it would make the stove run hot anyway. The lack of an interam gasket wouldn't make it run hot, either, as webby said above. You need that in there though, to force all the smoke through the combustor once you have closed the bypass.
I would get the kit below, and replace both door gaskets, ash door gasket, glass gasket and bypass door gasket.
Clean the gasket channels well, removing all of the old cement. Angle grinder with a cable-twist wire wheel works well for this, but you can scrape it out with an old screwdriver or something, it just takes longer.
Use enough gasket cement, but not too much to where it squishes out. Lay the new gasket softly and evenly into the channel, don't stretch it. Adjust and close the doors, and let the cement dry for a day before firing up the stove.

It’s getting extra air somewhere.
This is a pretty old stove that’s bolted together, very well could just be ready to retire or rebuild.

Yep, these stoves have cast iron panels with cemented seams. Eventually the cement cracks and falls out, and uncontrolled air leaks in. I tried to seal up my SIL's 2460, patching the vertical and horizontal seams inside the box the best I could, and replacing all gaskets.
It helped a bit, slowed the burn some, but to do it right you really should tear down the stove and re-do all the seams. It seems like it would be a daunting task to get the cement on all the seams and put the stove back together quickly enough. A strap would help hold the sides up in position, and you probably need a helper as well. If the cast iron panels are warped, you might not even be able to get it back together. Luckily, my 2460 doesn't leak very bad yet. I like that little stove but I don't know if I would attempt to rebuild it. It's on the bench in the backup role, so not getting any leakier right now.
But in your case, it sounds like the problem cropped up after you worked on the stove. If you go through the gaskets and get them right, you may get your control back.

Perhaps it’s not an OEM gasket..

Yeah, you need to use OEM so that you know it's the right density and type that the stove maker wants in there.

http://www.cozycabinstoveandfireplaceparts.com/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=2460
https://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/7...t-Castings-2460-2461-and-2462-Gasket-Kit.html

 

[Burnmeister]

Well, he came back and swapped out all the gaskets before Christmas. Agian. But I seem to be having the same problem. Wants to run away on me; especially at night. During the day I use smaller, 3 split loads and load it up at night, but it goes berzerk now if I go more than 3 or 4 splits
I got it to slow down the other day by pressing on the doors to get that seal tighter.
Its either the stove, or Im losing confidence running it. And Im getting to the point where Im too nervous to walk away from it at night.

Can anyone think what I might be doing wrong?

Thanks to Rearscreen for bringing up that ashpan door may be the culprit.

Looks as though he may be right.

 

[Burnmeister]

Had to post this too. This is the back of the ash pan housing.

 

[Burnmeister]

Update. I did the ash pan door myself. I was a little hesitant, but I need to be able take of my stove, I suppose.

I see in the owners manual that the ash pan door calls foe a 3/8" gasket. This is the gasket I pulled out (on the left) vs. the one I installed. Clearly NOT 3/8".

 

[fire_man]

I think you found the problem - the ashpan door gasket is not sealing right.

I just had a similar issue with my Palladian with an uncontrolled fire and it turned out to be the ashpan door gasket slipped out from the channel.