Castle Serenity Install (Check my work please)

[pgriffiths]

Hi everyone,

I have recently purchased and installed a Castle Serenity Stove and am hoping some folks here can check my work (as much as is possible from my description). Here's what I did:

1) Placed stove on simple hearth pad allowing 14" from walls in back corners of stove(much more than the 6" as required in the manual)

2) Installed Duravent Type L using 500d RTV silicone and 3, 1/4" sheet metal screws per connection. I painted it black with high-temp spray paint.

3) My vent run is as follows (I went up and then out through the wall): Appliance adapter > Cleanout Tee > 36" straight pipe up > 90d elbow > 3, 12" pieces to and then through wall thimble > termination cap (this is 12" from the exterior wall of the house).

4) OAK is installed 3' 5" directly below vent termination.

5) Used 500d RTV Silicone to seal the small gap around the vent pipe and wall thimble on both the interior and exterior sides of the hole.

6) Used standard silicone to seal around wall thimble and exterior siding of the house as well as the OAK.

Questions/Concerns:

A) I believe I have done everything as I should have but am concerned about the wall thimble. I have standard, faced, r-15 insulation directly against the outer ring of the thimble (did NOT put anything in the air gap between pipe and inside wall of thimble). I've just never put one of these in before and it seems like that isn't enough protection to keep a fire from starting in the wall. Any reassurance or tips here would be appreciated!

B) I accidentally drove a 1/4" sheet metal screw through the wrong part of the cleanout tee and punctured the interior wall of the vent pipe. I put a gob of RTV silicone on the hole and put the screw back in place. (I believe this formed an airtight seal) Seems like a relatively minor error and the repair appears to be sufficient. Thoughts on this?

C) Cleanout Tee: I put RTV and 3 screws on the removable cap of the cleanout tee (as per the directions in the manual "All connections must be made with 500d RTV silicone and 3, 1/4" sheet metal screws") I'm sure I'm going to be hating life when it comes time to remove that for cleaning and inspection. Thoughts?

D) My horizontal run seems really long compared to other photos I've seen but still within the guidelines illustrated in the manual. Overall horizontal run is apx. 3' 8" with pipes, Tee, and elbow. Is this ok?

Finally, I'm sorry about the long-winded post! I appreciate you guys and gals taking the time to read and offer any feedback. Thanks a bunch! Picture below:

 

[rich2500]

You say 3 12" pieces to and through thimble, none of the joints can be within the thimble. Other then that you should be good from what I'm reading because the photo isn't showing.

 

[smalltown]

I don't see you photo either. Your install sounds a lot like mine. Kind of wondering how you got 3 1/2 feet of horizontal pipe.
I agree with rich2500 no pipe joints should be inside the wall thimble. My stove was installed by the dealer. I only have screws (and sealant) attaching the appliance adapter to the stove. On the cleanout T I have no sealant, it will be a pain in the butt to get that apart to clean it out. All my pipes are twist and lock seal. My cleanout T is approx. 1/4 turn, and then pull down to open. Even without sealant I don't look forward to removing it.

 

[pgriffiths]

Thank you for the quick replies!

Sorry about the picture, I'll try again here. Also for clarification, I have 3, 12" sections of pipe that make up my horizontal run. The 8" was what I figured was accounted for in the horizontal parts of the cleanout tee and 90d elbow (apologies if I shouldn't factor that in).

The part that goes through the wall thimble is one, full, 12" piece. It is connected to another 12" piece on the interior and another 12" piece on the exterior. Both connections are made just outside of the wall thimble.

I'm really kicking my butt about the cleanout, I know that's going to be trouble when it comes time to take the cap off... Is the pic. displaying now?

 

[GT_Sharp]

Looks good! Not being picky but if it was me, I'd put a small hanger on the wall for the electric cord so it didn't or couldn't contact the baseboard heater. YMMV

 

[smalltown]

pgriffiths It looks got from here !

The next time you upload a file there is a box called "preview" in which you will be able to see just what your post with the photo will look like before you send it. It's great to use so you can make any changes if necessary. You can keep previewing as many times as you want.

 

[rich2500]

I guess I will say it before someone else does but get yourself a surge protector, other then that looks good to me.congrats on a great little stove

 

[MarkF48]

If that's a CO detector behind the stove, when I installed my stove I also did similar. The building inspector (Massachusetts) that checked off the install said to move across the room and not have it directly adjacent to the stove. I assume he knew what he was talking about even though to me it seemed to make sense to have it close to what might be the source of CO.
Anyone else have thoughts on this?

 

[cecil_archer]

If that's a CO detector behind the stove, when I installed my stove I also did similar. The building inspector (Massachusetts) that checked off the install said to move across the room and not have it directly adjacent to the stove. I assume he knew what he was talking about even though to me it seemed to make sense to have it close to what might be the source of CO.
Anyone else have thoughts on this?

I have mine in a similar position as pictured. I am interested in other thoughts on this as well.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[johneh]

get yourself a surge protector

X2

 

[Deezl Smoke]

Looks like the same hearth pad as I have under one of my serenitys. Ace?

As mentioned, a surge protector on the power outlet would be good and also as mentioned, get the cord off of the electric heater and/or disable it completely so no one can accidentally turn it on.

Dont fret on the clean out until it's time to clean it out. You can always fix it then.

As far as I know, the whole purpose of the wall thimble is to keep a safe distance between the piping and the wall construction. So now you should have an insulated piping "type L" and the wall thimble. Most thimble installs on youtube show people replacing the insulation around the outside of the thimble tube. So........