catalytic converter or after burner?

[Chilly Willy]

Hi, I'm new to stoves but have been burning in a fireplace for a long time. Looking at stoves and see a lot of complaints from people who have to replace either the converter or baffles/parts of reburn systems. The question is, is there a consensus on which technology is preferred? If the reburn type, are there brands of stoves that the reburn systems /parts are not as good or sturdy than others? Thanks in advance.

 

[begreen]

Most quality stoves go a long time without issue or major parts replacement. Some early secondary tube stoves used steel tubes that failed early, but I think all stoves now use stainless tubes or secondary racks.
Cat stoves have more moving parts and are a bit higher maintenance, but some have the advantage of running at a lower output without smoking up the chimney. This can be good for people that need heat in fall & spring weather when they don't have an alternative heat source. There's a 3d type of stove that uses a hybrid system with both secondary tubes and a catalyst. They are becoming more prevalent with the new 2020 EPA requirements.

There's tons of past discussion on this topic. Just search on cat vs non-cat in this forum.

 

[Highbeam]

I have one of each currently (cat and noncat) and I think the answer of which technology best for you is one of tradeoffs and your particular application.

 

[WoodBurnerInWI]

I second researching stoves that use a hybrid system to burn the wood smoke. A good hybrid system will include a catalyst as well as the secondary burn tubes (or chambers). The goal of the hybrid system is to be able to efficiently re burn smoke no matter what stage of the burn you are at. My stove, a Woodstock Soapstone Ideal Steel, has an excellent hybrid burn system and I regularly get over 12 hr burns with it even in super cold weather!

 

[Chilly Willy]

I probably should have posted this to begin with. My goal is to reduce my electric bill a bit, and to enjoy the view of the fire. I dont plan to use wood exclusively, but I do have a good amount of red oak at my disposal so why not?
The stove will stand between my kitchen/dining room and my family room. Both rooms are each about 400ish sq. ft., so 800 combined. On the far side of my kitchen is a central hallway to 3 bedrooms. I'm not really planning for much heat to travel down the hall, but we'll see. There is a ceiling fan in the family room.
I am going for a stove with a glass door to see the fire. Being super efficient isnt really all that important, but it will certainly be a welcomed bonus. I am looking for a used stove with a good reputation and lower price than a new one. It just seems that most of the newer high tech "smoke burners" wear out or break and can cost several hundred $ to replace.

 

[begreen]

It just seems that most of the newer high tech "smoke burners" wear out or break and can cost several hundred $ to replace.

That's assumption is not correct, particularly for non-cats without a bypass. There are many modern stoves that are very low maintenance. In the past 11 yrs all our stove has had is a stove door gasket replacement which is something old or new stoves are going to need.

 

[edyit]

but I do have a good amount of red oak at my disposal so why not?

no matter what stove you get you're not going to like the results if you don't have seasoned wood (<20% moisture content) oak generally takes 2 seasons to dry enough to burn without it sizzling

 

[begreen]

no matter what stove you get you're not going to like the results if you don't have seasoned wood (<20% moisture content) oak generally takes 2 seasons to dry enough to burn without it sizzling

Yes, and the red oak will typically need a couple of years after splitting and stacking to fully season.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I thought just like you that I would be a part time butner. I was wrong. I enjoyed the heat so much I use it as my full time heat. As a cat stove owner my burn times are long. 12+ hours and I can burn low in the fall as well.as the spring. Hybrid is a great way to go. Cat will get you a more even heat and long burn times. Stoves with burn tube have a extended burn times but the heat is a little uneven spiking early with less towards the middle stage of the burn.. There are tradeoffs to anything and nothing is perfect. Do your research and don't let price determine what you get, buy something that will completely fit your needs. Get dry wood, thats the key to any stove and dry wood leads to the best experience

 

[firefighterjake]

I probably should have posted this to begin with. My goal is to reduce my electric bill a bit, and to enjoy the view of the fire. I dont plan to use wood exclusively, but I do have a good amount of red oak at my disposal so why not?
The stove will stand between my kitchen/dining room and my family room. Both rooms are each about 400ish sq. ft., so 800 combined. On the far side of my kitchen is a central hallway to 3 bedrooms. I'm not really planning for much heat to travel down the hall, but we'll see. There is a ceiling fan in the family room.
I am going for a stove with a glass door to see the fire. Being super efficient isnt really all that important, but it will certainly be a welcomed bonus. I am looking for a used stove with a good reputation and lower price than a new one. It just seems that most of the newer high tech "smoke burners" wear out or break and can cost several hundred $ to replace.

Stick with a good, quality name-brand stove that has been around for awhile . . . although I must confess I originally had the same thought of just burning part time to save money on heating oil.

When I realized how easy the new stoves are to operate and began to relish the heat (not to mention the sight and sounds of a crackling wood fire) I pretty much began heating 24/7.

Moving heat in a home is possible . . . although these are still truly space heaters so generally I recommend folks put the woodstove in the space where they plan to spend most of their waking time in the home. I use a cheap electric fan on the floor to push the air towards the woodstove and set up a heat loop to move the heat through most of the home.

Finally . . . the "new tech" has actually been around for a good amount of time now and honestly are pretty tough . . . I'm going on 12 years with my Jotul and only have replaced a couple of gaskets and the baffle blanket (gaskets being a "wear item" and the baffle blanket probably could have been used longer to be frank.)

If you do opt to buy new there are a few things you want to look out for . . . mainly over-firing.

 

[Chilly Willy]

Update: I looked at a few different brands, and for several reasons settled on a Drolet 1800. I was ready to order it new online, and before I pulled the trigger I decided to check Craigslist. Found a 2004 Quadrafire 3100 ACT for $100. Drove 90 mins with low expectations in terms of condition. I looked it over inside and out, and to my untrained eye, it looked pretty good. I didnt notice any evidence that it had been abused, saw no cracks anywhere, and basically only surface rust. 3 bricks were broken. Glass looked good, gasket looked good, baffle and blanket seemed almost new. The owner loaded it into my truck with his tractor and off I went.
I have already ordered replacement bricks, and some Stove Bright paint. Now to arrange for installation. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[begreen]

That's a decent heater and an even more decent price. With a little cleanup and paint, it should work out well. I think you will like the deeper, more square firebox.

I think the firebricks are pumice bricks. Which firebricks are cracked? If the crack is minor just leave it, or maybe just move them to the floor position.

 

[Chilly Willy]

That's a decent heater and an even more decent price. With a little cleanup and paint, it should work out well. I think you will like the deeper, more square firebox.

I think the firebricks are pumice bricks. Which firebricks are cracked? If the crack is minor just leave it, or maybe just move them to the floor position.

Pumice is correct. One broken brick has a hole drilled for the startup air pipe (one of two) on the back wall. I figured I should start out with good parts. Wasnt sure how they need to protect the floor steel, so for $40 why not.
I did notice that a corner of the blanket was thin, like a half of the thickness was removed, area maybe 2x2" right in a back corner.