I have a friend’s old Vermont Castings Encore 2550 with the catalytic converter design. He burned some semi-moist wood and cracked the Cat (a second time), so he decided to get a new stove without one. Before he set it outside in the weather, the Cat was removed and discarded.
3-4 years later I decided to try it out. This summer I cleaned up the rusty thing and re-gasketed the easy spots. I have been burning it with the catalytic "slot" wide open. Needless to say, it is drawing too hard and most of the heat is going straight out the 6” chimney pipe out of our yurt (circular wooden home with center ring/dome covered in vinyl coated polyester skin).
I know it’s not recommended, but is there anything I can temporarily put in the Cat’s place to slow the draw? I was thinking fire blanket insulation layered in between pieces of steel lath, with a solid steel sheet metal rectangle on sides, to mimic the dimensions and flow-through of the typical 13x2x2.5" cat converter.
Ideally I would replace the refractory and combuster (refractory is cracked and deteriorated), but the parts will take weeks to get here, and $450+ is a bit out of budget for us. I also don't want to take apart our heat source in the middle of winter, because it was rusted pretty bad and who knows what I'll get into. Right now it burns hot and doesn't leak into the room, so that's great. We do have a kerosene space heater to help heat the 750 sq ft yurt, but the stove should be pumping out a lot more heat. Granted, our walls/ceiling are only reflective insulated, so when the fire goes out the heat doesn't hold at all.
Is there any other ideas for substitute material to slow the flow?
I wish VC made a alternative cast iron piece, but hey that would probably cost the same...
Do you think it's worth spending the $500-700 to rebuild it? That seems like most of a new stove price?
Anyone else have complaints about using a cat system like this? My friend had horrible reviews, but the concept seems great...less fuel, more heat, less smoke.
Thanks for any help
Ben
3-4 years later I decided to try it out. This summer I cleaned up the rusty thing and re-gasketed the easy spots. I have been burning it with the catalytic "slot" wide open. Needless to say, it is drawing too hard and most of the heat is going straight out the 6” chimney pipe out of our yurt (circular wooden home with center ring/dome covered in vinyl coated polyester skin).
I know it’s not recommended, but is there anything I can temporarily put in the Cat’s place to slow the draw? I was thinking fire blanket insulation layered in between pieces of steel lath, with a solid steel sheet metal rectangle on sides, to mimic the dimensions and flow-through of the typical 13x2x2.5" cat converter.
Ideally I would replace the refractory and combuster (refractory is cracked and deteriorated), but the parts will take weeks to get here, and $450+ is a bit out of budget for us. I also don't want to take apart our heat source in the middle of winter, because it was rusted pretty bad and who knows what I'll get into. Right now it burns hot and doesn't leak into the room, so that's great. We do have a kerosene space heater to help heat the 750 sq ft yurt, but the stove should be pumping out a lot more heat. Granted, our walls/ceiling are only reflective insulated, so when the fire goes out the heat doesn't hold at all.
Is there any other ideas for substitute material to slow the flow?
I wish VC made a alternative cast iron piece, but hey that would probably cost the same...
Do you think it's worth spending the $500-700 to rebuild it? That seems like most of a new stove price?
Anyone else have complaints about using a cat system like this? My friend had horrible reviews, but the concept seems great...less fuel, more heat, less smoke.
Thanks for any help
Ben