Ceiling height calamity...

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Mr. Kelly

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Hi all,

It figures... pick out a stove awhile ago that I planned on purchasing today. I read most of the manual online quite awhile ago, to determine all of my clearances. Now, after I have the hearth mostly built for it, I reread the clearance requirements just to make sure, and NOW I notice, in fine print I might add, that the ceiling height minimum is 7'. I would have never imagined that my very old house has a ceiling height of 4" short of that, at about 6'8''. I just didn't even think of measuring that. One would think that all ceilings are at least 7" tall. But, you know what they say about assuming anything.

Geeze. That's a bomb. I know, I know, that was dumb.

So, the manual says that if the ceiling height is less than 7', the unit must be installed according to alcove clearances, which mandate a ceiling of at least 3.5" thick with a one inch ventilation space. I cannot imagine how I'll do this, considering it's a friggin' dining room.

Any suggestions? Will I have to attach a frame of some sorts to the ceiling of the room and put some sort of material up there? What in heck can I use that's 3.5" thick that won't be too heavy to keep up there?

Anybody on here that's encountered an alcove install, or very short ceiling heights! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!


Thanks for reading... as usual.
 
Personally I wouldn't sweat the extra four inches. My grandparents who are full time woodburners (in a nonEPA stove no less) also have the 6ft-and-some-change height ceilings.

If you're really concerned about it, you can get fire-resistant drywall and hang that instead of your plain old ceiling.

You didn't mention what kind of stove you bought - could you swap out the base (pedistal for legs, or visa versa) and get a few more inches clearance that way?
 
Where there is a whip, there is a way! Hard to say exactly what that is, and I'm not sure what "mandate a ceiling of at least 3.5” thick with a one inch ventilation space" means. Surely your ceiling now is more than 3.5" thick? and a 1 inch ventilation space...between what?

But surely some method to blend in a heat shield or fireproof layer with your existing decor. Many times a piece of metal with a small air space can serve as a heat shield. Could you use decorative stamped tin panels, a sleek sheet of stainless?
 
Mr. Kelly said:
Hi all,

It figures... pick out a stove awhile ago that I planned on purchasing today. I read most of the manual online quite awhile ago, to determine all of my clearances. Now, after I have the hearth mostly built for it, I reread the clearance requirements just to make sure, and NOW I notice, in fine print I might add, that the ceiling height minimum is 7'. I would have never imagined that my very old house has a ceiling height of 4" short of that, at about 6'8''. I just didn't even think of measuring that. One would think that all ceilings are at least 7" tall. But, you know what they say about assuming anything.

Geeze. That's a bomb. I know, I know, that was dumb.

So, the manual says that if the ceiling height is less than 7', the unit must be installed according to alcove clearances, which mandate a ceiling of at least 3.5" thick with a one inch ventilation space. I cannot imagine how I'll do this, considering it's a friggin' dining room.

Any suggestions? Will I have to attach a frame of some sorts to the ceiling of the room and put some sort of material up there? What in heck can I use that's 3.5" thick that won't be too heavy to keep up there?

Anybody on here that's encountered an alcove install, or very short ceiling heights! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!

What does your Insurance Company say and also does it need to be inspected by the code officer.

Zap


Thanks for reading... as usual.
 
There are really two factors to consider here... one is safety, and the other is code/inspection.

For safety, I need to be really careful of bending what clearances have been recommended. A) we have a really old house with lots of very dry wood... just right for combustion. B) My wife is very nervous of any stove in the house, let alone one that will defy recommendations.

So, I will likely need to come up with some kind of solution. I will need to contact my local inspector, maybe even visit the fire station here, to see what they all have to say about it.

From an editorial perspective, I think for the manufacturer to compare a lower than clearance ceiling to an alcove install seems a bit of overkill. I do see how I will need SOME sort of extra protection on the ceiling around the stove, but I can't imagine I would truly need a 3.5 inch thick surface of non-combustable material, plus the one inch air space. That seems a bit extreme. Perhaps, I'll have someone reasonable tell me I can stack a couple of layers of something and attach that the the ceiling around where the stove will sit, and that should do it.

FirefigherJake... any thoughts???

How practical is it to consider laying tile on a ceiling. Ever seen that done?

Gooday!
 
Mr. Kelly said:
There are really two factors to consider here... one is safety, and the other is code/inspection.

For safety, I need to be really careful of bending what clearances have been recommended. A) we have a really old house with lots of very dry wood... just right for combustion. B) My wife is very nervous of any stove in the house, let alone one that will defy recommendations.

So, I will likely need to come up with some kind of solution. I will need to contact my local inspector, maybe even visit the fire station here, to see what they all have to say about it.

From an editorial perspective, I think for the manufacturer to compare a lower than clearance ceiling to an alcove install seems a bit of overkill. I do see how I will need SOME sort of extra protection on the ceiling around the stove, but I can't imagine I would truly need a 3.5 inch thick surface of non-combustable material, plus the one inch air space. That seems a bit extreme. Perhaps, I'll have someone reasonable tell me I can stack a couple of layers of something and attach that the the ceiling around where the stove will sit, and that should do it.

FirefigherJake... any thoughts???

How practical is it to consider laying tile on a ceiling. Ever seen that done?


What about double wall pipe, will that make the clearance less.

Zap
Gooday!
 
Kelly, what stove is this?
 
My original plan was the Lopi Republic 1750 2.2 cu/ft., but was wavering about the Endeavor, same size box. Any thoughts?

The clearances that I've been considering are with double wall pipe.
 
Mr. Kelly said:
My original plan was the Lopi Republic 1750 2.2 cu/ft., but was wavering about the Endeavor, same size box. Any thoughts?

The clearances that I've been considering are with double wall pipe.

Hmmm . . . seems a bit extreme -- I'm surprised to hear this since you're using double wall pipe. Perhaps a call into the dealer . . . ask them to check with the manufacturer for verification in your own case . . . otherwise it sounds like you would have to go with a shorter leg kit, shorter hearth or ceiling protection -- all of which seem to be a little on the extreme side in this particular case.
 
Good you caught that beforehand. A few years ago, old Elky got into this dilemma. It was solved with a simple heat shield attached to the ceiling over the stove that had a 1" air gap (and it passed inspection). Here's the thread:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/7437/

YMMV, best to talk it over with the inspector.
 
there are other stoves out there with lower ceiling clearances like the Hearthstone Shelburn. I would not bend these rules, move your stove selection to something that will maintain clearances.
 
The Endeavor manual states on page 8: If the stove is placed in a location where the ceiling height is less than 7' (2134mm), it must follow the
requirements in the section "Alcove Installation Requirements".

Then, under the Alcove Installation Requirements it reads: "Whenever the stove is placed in a location where the ceiling height is less than 7' (2134mm) tall, it is
considered an alcove installation. Because of the reduced height, the special installation requirements
listed below must be met.
• Chimney connector and chimney must be one of the following types:
AMERI-TEC model DCC with model HS chimney
DURAVENT model DVL with DURATEC or DURA-PLUS chimney
GSW Super Chimney Twenty-One connected directly to appliance
I.C.C. Excel (2100-2 Can.) (103-HT USA) chimney with HP connector
METALFAB model DW connector with TG chimney
OLIVER MACLEOD PROVENT model PV connector with model 3103 chimney
SECURITY model DP connector with SECURITY model ASHT or S2100 chimney
SELKIRK METALBESTOS model DS connector with model SSII chimney
Standard Masonry Chimney with any one of the above listed connectors
NOTE: Reduced clearance connectors may not connect to the flue collar – an appliance adapter may be required.

• Alcoves are classified as combustible or non-combustible. Non-combustible alcoves must have walls
and a ceiling that are 3 1/2" (89mm) thick of a non-combustible material (brick, stone, or concrete -
see Figure 7). This non-combustible material must be spaced and ventilated at least 1" (25mm) off of
all combustible materials (walls, ceiling, etc.) to allow air to move around the non-combustible walls
and ceiling. All other alcoves are considered combustible. The clearances below must be met:"

So, I'm not really sure it changes anything for you.
 
Basically, it looks like if you have ceilings that are less than 7', you have to follow the Alcove Installation guidelines. If your "alcove" is COMBUSTIBLE, then you have to follow the clearances listed for the combustible alcove installation which, to me, look exactly like the "reduced clearances" for a standard installation.

I think if your ceilings are less than 7', you just have to use double wall stove pipe and one of the approved chimneys and connectors listed there.
 
Thanks for your input, everyone...

The way I read it, it says that minimum clearance to combustable ceiling for alcove is 84". My ceiling is 80" AND my hearth is about 4" off the ground. So, if I'm below the minimum for combustable, I suspect this mandates going to a non-combustable installation, thus the need for 3 1/2" + spacers.

It doesn't actually mention hearth heights, which is rather odd.

Am I reading this right? I'm going to talk to the dealer now to see what they say. Maybe they'll put in a call. Thanks, also, for the email address to customer service. Hopefully, one of these will produce a remedy! Wish me luck!

Wishful of warm...
 
Well, in the diagram, they use measurement J as being from the floor to the top of the alcove, not some part of the stove to the top of the alcove. But, you're right, it does look like they want a minimum of 7' from floor to ceiling. Which is odd, because it says if your ceilings are less than 7', go to the alcove section. But when you get to the alcove section, it makes it sound like you need a minimum of 7'. Odd.
 
Just read my stove tag since the inspector is coming tomorrow 8-/ .When I purchased my stove I was actually there to purchase a 1750 or endeavor. But the Kuma was cheaper and I liked the look better . The clearances were close and I was installing in an alcove with a shorter ceiling. The stove is 30" tall and you need 52" to ceiling so 82" from the top of the hearth. The owners manual never stated a min ceiling clearance :ahhh:
 
I'm so thoroughly impressed that you guys are taking time out of your day to help research this dilemma. Thank you.

I went to the dealer today. First, he seemed to not be too impressed with the Lopi Endeavor, and seemed to want to steer me toward the Jotul Oslo. More on that in a bit.

This fellow, who says he's been in the business for years, says that the EPA standards are becoming insanely rigid, and many clearance requirements are about to change again, to be more rigid. He said that he's never seen an inspector ever measure ceiling height, and he was befuddled that the height requirement for Lopi was 84", considering that the Jotul Oslo requirement (with heatshield on the wall behind) was less than 70". I suspect other units may follow this trend. For some reason, Lopi seems very low with their height clearance.

He was grumbling that he's never heard of a stove fire that was caused by drywall catching on fire, in all the years he's been selling stoves.

So, they had heat shields there that I could put on the ceiling, if necessary, for about 100 bucks. The Lopi info doesn't even say how much surface area I'd need to cover on the ceiling, although it presumably would be the surface area of the minimum clearance measurements of an alcove, as stated in the manual.

As far as many of you recommending to just simply buy another stove... well, there's several things that come to mind... First, I haven't been impressed enough with anything else I've seen in any local dealership (and I've been to many), and I am impressed with what I've seen, so far, with Lopi stoves, including their construction and their price structure. They have "stripped down" versions of their steel boxes that seem quite practical, and fairly well built. I know I'll take some heat from Jotul fans, but I wasn't hugely impressed with the construction of the Oslo (at least the one in the showroom), particularly the way the door latches to the box. That's a whole other thread, though!

Next step, talk to the local building inspector, and hear what he has to say about low ceiling clearances.

Meanwhile, said stove installation project is taking a nap. Nighty, night.

Cheers
 
WWWWWHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEWW just went out to the truck to get a tape measure came in at 84 and a half. Just hope he doesn't give me grief about a lack of an oak
 
devinsdad said:
WWWWWHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEWW just went out to the truck to get a tape measure came in at 84 and a half. Just hope he doesn't give me grief about a lack of an oak

Lucky YOU! My luck ran out on the other side of the tape measure.

Let me know how your inspection goes, and see if you can get a feel for the weight he places on the height of your space. I'll be interested to see what he says!

Good luck!
 
I'll let you know tomorrow afternoon.
 
Mr. Kelly said:
I'm so thoroughly impressed that you guys are taking time out of your day to help research this dilemma. Thank you.

It's all about paying it forward . . . all of us here have learned and continue to learn because of this site . . . we're just hoping to help others in the same way . . . and in some cases hoping we can prevent folks from making similar mistakes or to get ahead of the game.

I went to the dealer today. First, he seemed to not be too impressed with the Lopi Endeavor, and seemed to want to steer me toward the Jotul Oslo. More on that in a bit.

I like the Jotul line up . . . but I also think the Lopis are fantastic stoves as well . . . it often seems that dealers tend to steer folks to one brand or another based on their own preference, stock, etc. My advice . . . pick what you want and need.

This fellow, who says he's been in the business for years, says that the EPA standards are becoming insanely rigid, and many clearance requirements are about to change again, to be more rigid. He said that he's never seen an inspector ever measure ceiling height, and he was befuddled that the height requirement for Lopi was 84", considering that the Jotul Oslo requirement (with heatshield on the wall behind) was less than 70". I suspect other units may follow this trend. For some reason, Lopi seems very low with their height clearance.

First off, EPA guidelines would not have anything to do with clearance requirements . . . clearance guidelines are set by the manufacturer (unless the woodstove is not listed which would then have to fall under the 211 code.)

Second, the dealer is right. I've never measured ceiling height (I have done so with clearances to walls) . . . and would do so with an alcove. However, that said, I would still want to follow the manufacturer's specs to the letter . . . again, perhaps a call in to Lopi explaining your situation might result in an easy fix or they might tell you that the measurement would be from the floor to the ceiling.


He was grumbling that he's never heard of a stove fire that was caused by drywall catching on fire, in all the years he's been selling stoves.

Gotta say, I've never heard of any stove catching the drywall on fire . . . but that said, drywall is generally covered in paper and is usually painted and those two things have the potential to catch on fire. . . .

So, they had heat shields there that I could put on the ceiling, if necessary, for about 100 bucks. The Lopi info doesn't even say how much surface area I'd need to cover on the ceiling, although it presumably would be the surface area of the minimum clearance measurements of an alcove, as stated in the manual.

Me, I would still have the dealer check with Lopi to be absolutely sure that the only way of getting around this is with a shield on the ceiling . . . if the company comes back saying a heat shield is necessary I would either look at another make/model or buy the heat shield . . . peace of mind is a good thing . . . following manufacturer specs for an install is a necessity.

As far as many of you recommending to just simply buy another stove... well, there's several things that come to mind... First, I haven't been impressed enough with anything else I've seen in any local dealership (and I've been to many), and I am impressed with what I've seen, so far, with Lopi stoves, including their construction and their price structure. They have "stripped down" versions of their steel boxes that seem quite practical, and fairly well built. I know I'll take some heat from Jotul fans, but I wasn't hugely impressed with the construction of the Oslo (at least the one in the showroom), particularly the way the door latches to the box. That's a whole other thread, though!

Whoa there Mr. Kelly . . . now you're talking smack about my beloved Jotul. I'll give you that Lopis are built tough, but I would wager you a cord of my finest wood that Jotuls are built just as tough . . . do a search of the Oslo and see what "problems" or how many negative reports there are . . . and I would guess that very few if any of those negatives have to do with the door latch or reliablity of the Jotul line up. In fact, I like the door latch . . . if the door is shutting too hard or there is too much play you can easily change this in 3 seconds with an Allen wrench.

In fact, I think the few negatives I see with the Jotul time and time again is the front door dumping ash on to the lip and hearth when it is open (an inconvenience to be sure, but not one of those make-or-break things for me) and the perpetually sticking air control lever . . . which was fixed in some cases when a defective part was noticed and in other cases a cheap $1.50 tube of graphite powder can resolve the problem.

Oh Mr. Kelly . . . if you like the Lopi, fine . . . but take another look at the Jotul . . . or for that matter one of the many other fine stoves out there and ask folks who are actually using these stoves for the good, the bad and the ugly . . . we'll tell you what we like and dislike about our stoves . . . we're biased to be sure, but we're also a painfully honest bunch.


Next step, talk to the local building inspector, and hear what he has to say about low ceiling clearances.

Good idea . . . but I would still adhere to the manufacturer specs regardless of what the inspector says. . . .

Meanwhile, said stove installation project is taking a nap. Nighty, night.

Cheers
 
Pagey said:
Basically, it looks like if you have ceilings that are less than 7', you have to follow the Alcove Installation guidelines. If your "alcove" is COMBUSTIBLE, then you have to follow the clearances listed for the combustible alcove installation which, to me, look exactly like the "reduced clearances" for a standard installation.

I think if your ceilings are less than 7', you just have to use double wall stove pipe and one of the approved chimneys and connectors listed there.
As pagey stated I'd just use the double walled pipe and never give it another thought. I do not see this type of install as dangerous in the least. But if it worries you just buy a Jotul or something with more realistic clearance requirements.
Joe
 
Well, I did go back and state that the "combustible alcove" requirements call for a minimum of 7' of clearance from floor to ceiling (measurement J in the Endeavor manual). I also noted this sounded counter-intuitive, as the preceding pages make it sound as though you can get by with less than 7'.

In the end, I think a call to Lopi is warranted.
 
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