Ya want ya some silca, just mess with the furnace cement we talk about here. And as for carcinogens in the lungs nothing beats the stuff flying around when you are cleaning a chimney.Hogwildz said:When I was just out of HS, I had a job at Budd trailers. I had my own single bay away from the rest of the shop that I had to sand blast the decals off the sides of semi trailers. I was given a regular painters respirator and a hood. On the side of the bags of sand said" Warning, Silica, prolonged exposure without the use of proper resppirator & equipment may cause lung disease". There was an old painter there had emphasyma (spelling) and conitnued to smoke and paint without a mask.
I can tell you a regular painters respirator was not great. It should have been a self contained mask & air tank.
I would pull that hood off and respirator off and have a mouth for of grit, along with the inside of the mask being caked. I didn't care much then, I was young and a lil dumber than I am nowawdays. I smoke alot, and years of breathing roofing chemicals, tar etc, has me thinking more these days. But yes, I still don't wear anything cept maybe some glasses when sawing wood etc. But I try and work smart most of the time, cut in ventilated areas etc.. Anyone can bust my stones as much as you feel like it. I know I am high risk due to my past work. And when I think of it, I try not to contribute to it. Everyone is all gung ho for personal safety protection when cutting logs & etc. I see no difference here.
Absolutely, I'd tell you to wear the gear, but I understand where you are coming from at the same time - One of my pet gripes is the question of how many injuries are caused by protective gear that gets in the way, causes one to be clumsy, or interferes with vision, etc. I take a sort of middle ground... I wear glasses, and I've had a difficult time finding goggles etc. that don't fog up or make my glasses fog up in a minute or two... Sorry, IMHO if I can't see, I'm not safe... So when I get glasses, I get BIG lenses, and have them made from hard surface polycarb - but I don't do OSHA specs as they weigh to much for comfort. I don't usually wear a respirator when doing wood work, but will when I'm emptying out the ashes in the wood stove. I have gotten more and more into the PPE gear, in part because I've gotten fussier and been able to find stuff that fits better.Hogwildz said:When I was just out of HS, I had a job at Budd trailers. I had my own single bay away from the rest of the shop that I had to sand blast the decals off the sides of semi trailers. I was given a regular painters respirator and a hood. On the side of the bags of sand said" Warning, Silica, prolonged exposure without the use of proper resppirator & equipment may cause lung disease". There was an old painter there had emphasyma (spelling) and conitnued to smoke and paint without a mask.
I can tell you a regular painters respirator was not great. It should have been a self contained mask & air tank.
I would pull that hood off and respirator off and have a mouth for of grit, along with the inside of the mask being caked. I didn't care much then, I was young and a lil dumber than I am nowawdays. I smoke alot, and years of breathing roofing chemicals, tar etc, has me thinking more these days. But yes, I still don't wear anything cept maybe some glasses when sawing wood etc. But I try and work smart most of the time, cut in ventilated areas etc.. Anyone can bust my stones as much as you feel like it. I know I am high risk due to my past work. And when I think of it, I try not to contribute to it. Everyone is all gung ho for personal safety protection when cutting logs & etc. I see no difference here.
Just looked it up - their Submittal sheet #F102 for it on thedmt5000 said:Ddes anyone know anything about USG "Fiber Rock" underlayment, i.e., is it suitable for a tile backer under a wood stove? Thanks,
Just throw up the link...... http://www.mcmaster.com/pyrazole said:I'm also working on hearth rebuild issues....did some research and found a ceramic product on McMaster (it's all java, I don't know how to link it). Take a look and feedback.
Extreme-Temperature Sheeting
* Temperature Range: -425° to +2300° F
* Heat Flow Rate (K-factor): 1/16" and 1/8" Thick., 0.71 Btu/hr. x in./sq. ft. @ 800° F; 1/4" Thick., 0.57 Btu/hr. x in./sq. ft. @ 800° F
* Density: 6-9 lbs./cu. ft.
* Color: White
This alumina silica ceramic fiber is ideal for both high- and low-temperature applications. If exposed to oil or water, it isn't permanently affected—its thermal and physical properties restore after drying.
Thick. 6" x 100 ft. 12" x 50 ft. 24" x 25 ft. Each
1/16" 93285K22 93285K24 93285K26 $65.13
1/8" 93285K42 93285K44 93285K46 113.63
1/4" 93285K62 93285K64 93285K66 235.39
6" x 20 ft. 12" x 10 ft. 24" x 5 ft.
1/8" 93285K12 93285K15 93285K18 $28.52
Certainly pricier than durock, but the size is enough to do a couplefew layers on a typical size hearth....low K's, for sure. Are the K's listed for 1"? or for the respective thickness? I don't know If they are, you're getting R of 1.40 for the 1/16 and 1/8 (@800F!) and R=1.75 for the 1/4". If it's per inch ratings, they're not good at all (R's of .08 on the 1/16, .16 on the 1/8, .43 on the 1/4) . The problems I see: they don't say specifically that it's fireproof, but alumina-silica should be unless they use an organic binder or something...2300F is a lot to ask for anything organic so I doubt it. It's also hard to say how compressible it is...spacers or high hats would fix that, though.
Has anyone checked into the Fiberock Backerboard? It's listed on USG's site as being fire rated.Gooserider said:Just looked it up - their Submittal sheet #F102 for it on thedmt5000 said:Ddes anyone know anything about USG "Fiber Rock" underlayment, i.e., is it suitable for a tile backer under a wood stove? Thanks,
FibeRock web page says it shouldn't be exposed to sustained temps over 125*F so I would say it is NOT suitable.
Durock Cement board IS specifically listed for the application however.
Gooserider