Has anyone used one of the CW2500X00 inserts? They are quite reasonable if they last several years, do they come in any larger models like say a 2.2 - 3.0 CF firebox ( the above model is apparently 1.3CF). The $500 price tag is tempting although it's rather plain looking, comes with a blower and is EPA rated. I'm currently using an old Elmira Stove Works but it's quite tired, it will accept a 22-24" log, it's huge but likely very inefficient.
century hearth - Lowes Canada/US
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you sure you have the right model #.. That model number is $799 here in BC, and when I phoned them they said it was a 1.9cu.ft firebox. Doesn`t the one with the smaller firebox end in 02?
Anyway, for 300 more you can get the larger firebox. In this part of the country they don`t stock them, they will order it for you and takes about 6 weeks for del. I dunno,only 3/16 steel top and sides as opposed to most other brands that are 1/4" steel top and sides. Decisions,decisions :roll:
Anyway, for 300 more you can get the larger firebox. In this part of the country they don`t stock them, they will order it for you and takes about 6 weeks for del. I dunno,only 3/16 steel top and sides as opposed to most other brands that are 1/4" steel top and sides. Decisions,decisions :roll:
The M# was from from the Lowes store rep. and it matched the box. The regular price was I believe $895, with a store opening 50% off - so after taxes... I found varying sources of info but nothing as well documented as the plate thickness, burn times etc. Thats why I joined the forum, hoping to feel good about a potential deal. There's still the want adds for a good used Pacific, Archgard, Supreme or even a Mapolean
Regarding posting of Feb 20th, I ended up going back to Lowes in Ontario (Grand opening week) where they had finally reduced the stove 75% off. So the final Bill for the Century CW2500X00 was $254 and at that price if it doesn't exactly work perfectly, it's not much of a loss. Coming from an old dinosaur with burned out re-burn chambers on the sides and a manual damper plate across the main vent opening, I think an EPA rated anything would be an improvement.(which is exactly what I got) the plate steel is thin, the air damper in front is very flimsy but the door is cast and feels sturdy as does the vent opening and the top and rear of the fire box where all the heat goes. Hope to install the Century today as the Elmira is almost cool enough. I'll do at least one of my starting burns @ +/- 200*f, if I've time I'll do a second @ about 3-350*f as per the mfr instructions.
Please post back here after you have done a few burns and let us know how you like the insert. Maybe a pic or two of the installation. Enjoy the warmth 
For that price it`s like a steal. Did it come with the surround and the blower?
For that price it`s like a steal. Did it come with the surround and the blower?
Took a couple of days for the install as the hearth opening was about 1/2" bigger than the insert and I didn't have enough room to make the proper connections for the venting. I moved the sill plate up one course of bricks, supported and re-mortared the required bricks into place. After drying for two days I reconnected the insert, did my fist two burns to help cure the paint and have been playing with it ever since. I have been trying to run the insert with the air damper mostly closed as I had always done with the Elmira. It was only yesterday I realized the air damper must be mostly open in order to get any heat out of the unit. - should have read the instructions a little more clearly. Anyway, with the damper 80% open, the firebox 80% full(1.9c.f. doesn't hold much) and fan on high,I managed to get the living-room 12'X14' up to 92*f. I was ready to reinstall the old dinosaur after the first couple of times I used the century but I'm getting the "hang of it" now. I need to clean the firebox out twice as often and fill the firebox allot more often but, running flat out I've not been able to see smoke from the outside chimney. So, I guess they run hotter and cleaner, but whether they use less wood I will decide over the next week or so - by then it should be obvious. Sorry no pics as yet - will try to have some for next time. I've seen the same model advertised on-line for over $800, in Ontario Canada that's a pretty good price; however, even if something is free and it's the wrong size or wrong BTU output, you'd be better to spend the money to get what you want.
$254 for an insert is a very good deal. You'll probably get more than that for it if you go to sell it after using it for a year, if you find it doesn't work for you.
After starting up the new 1.7cf insert this season I still feel the old Elmira was more effective; It protruded from the fireplace opening 12-13" so if the power goes out you can still cook, as long as you've got fuel; further, it drew air across the fuel and not infront of it as the 1.7cf does so it tends to start much easier. Most of what I burn is Jack Pine and old Elm and not always perfectly dried. The extra room in the Elmira meant you could throw in a mixed complement of woods and it would burn hot and steady throughout most of the night. The new 1.7cf has trouble getting my little 10 X12' room over 80*f and burns out in 3-4 hrs. I'm not particularely impressed.
Welcome aboard the boards!
If you don't have seasoned wood @ 25% moisture or so, you are not going to be impressed. In my switch to my insert, I found I needed to cut my splits way smaller (nothing bigger than my wrist when I start it) and get it real hot real fast (large kindling fire) to get the system working and a bed of coals started. Then I could lay in 2-3 larger splits and they would burn well, 'cause the pump had been primed (Chimney was up to temp, coals lighting the wood, hot stove burning off the gasses). If you don't already, get a thermometer to measure stove temps - if your stove isn't getting hot, you won't, of course, get any heat.
Remember, you have moved from a simple steel firebox to what is essentially a "wood gasifier" - they work differently. You can't expect to run the new insert like your Elmira - they were not designed to be run the same way. It is a learning curve for sure, but you will use less wood, not overheat the room, make less smoke - all good things in my books.
Enjoy.
If you don't have seasoned wood @ 25% moisture or so, you are not going to be impressed. In my switch to my insert, I found I needed to cut my splits way smaller (nothing bigger than my wrist when I start it) and get it real hot real fast (large kindling fire) to get the system working and a bed of coals started. Then I could lay in 2-3 larger splits and they would burn well, 'cause the pump had been primed (Chimney was up to temp, coals lighting the wood, hot stove burning off the gasses). If you don't already, get a thermometer to measure stove temps - if your stove isn't getting hot, you won't, of course, get any heat.
Remember, you have moved from a simple steel firebox to what is essentially a "wood gasifier" - they work differently. You can't expect to run the new insert like your Elmira - they were not designed to be run the same way. It is a learning curve for sure, but you will use less wood, not overheat the room, make less smoke - all good things in my books.
Enjoy.
I had an Elmira 1600 insert, and then I picked up a Jotul 450 Tamarak insert. I have all the same issues, ie firebox holds 3-4 pieces, Incredibly, for almost 1/2 the size, I had to use an offset chimney liner adaptor,(rather than butcher the hearth). Heat is wimpey, burn times same or probably shorter, etc. I'm still wondering if I should have the Elmira rebuilt? (lots of wharpage). At least you paid about a thousand less than me. A buddy of mine's wife said: "The old stoves kick ass". I always had lots of free wood, so maybe the "wood guzzling" didn't seem as noticeable. I get 700 plus degrees on the insert top, but just no "cook you out heat". Also, all this talk about block off plates, the Elmira would kind of heat my attached garage, this Jotul is jacketed, and niether heat my house or the garage! If I did it again, I would think "long and hard" about any "light weight, high maintenance, low output" modern EPA stove. Like they say with the old muscle cars: "No Replacement, For Displacement". P.S. I REALLY would love to find out I am doing "something wrong" and this little POS could actually heat my basement. The Elmira would heat from the basement to my upstairs(1200 sq ft bungalow) easily except on the coldest winter days. The Jotul 450 seem hard pressed to do it at the freezing mark. Don't tooss the old Elmira Yet!
I have the exact model and pretty much feel the same way. OK for the price but not as effective as it should be. I personally think the blower is underpowered and that is the problem with the unit. I also wondered if moving the baffle all the way forward, creating the gap at the back of the box would let it breath better by moving the air across the logs instead of infront of and up.
Stihl and I have had this chat before about the Jotul C 450 - I have to say, I can heat myself out of the room on my Jotul, and I truly wish I could help. Stihl, is yours exposed to the room as much as possible (i.e.sticking out)?
I am wondering if the lack of radiant heat is what you are all describing. The Elmira had a lot of steel exposed to the room, and would certainly have given off more radiant heat. If I get my Kennebec (C450 with a different surround than the Tamarac) up to speed (I get 750 C in 15 mins on my stove top thermometer), and turn on the blower, I'm cookin'.
As far as moving the baffle forward, I wouldn't. The airflow is very intentional - once the flue and stove is hot (I think this is were most of us go wrong at first, we try way to early to close down the primary air) and you close the primary air off, the stove draws air in from on top the fire to burn off the gases. as well, on the Jotul and others, air is brought in at the top of the doors, creating a wash over the doors, down to the fire bed. Then the hotest air is exhausted out the front, heating ther top of the stove closest to the door the most, as this is closest to the room.
These stoves are way more sensitive to poor draft/wet wood/ too large splits/too much primary air cut off too early than the older units. I spent the first 2 weeks learning to run it really hot, and then started to learn how to cut down the air to get better "wood mileage". Try to run these units at full throttle longer (I don't cut my air below P for about 30 mins after it hits 750 C), and see if you are happier. You are still going top have to reload more often, and I have not yet gotten enough overnight burn duration to allow me to stoke the stove from coals in the AM. But I am warm.
Summary - dry wood, smaller splits (wrist size nor fist size), full throttle for longer, cut primary air back slowly. Hope that helps. The air in Ontario isn't that much different than NS to make these things work so differently
I am wondering if the lack of radiant heat is what you are all describing. The Elmira had a lot of steel exposed to the room, and would certainly have given off more radiant heat. If I get my Kennebec (C450 with a different surround than the Tamarac) up to speed (I get 750 C in 15 mins on my stove top thermometer), and turn on the blower, I'm cookin'.
As far as moving the baffle forward, I wouldn't. The airflow is very intentional - once the flue and stove is hot (I think this is were most of us go wrong at first, we try way to early to close down the primary air) and you close the primary air off, the stove draws air in from on top the fire to burn off the gases. as well, on the Jotul and others, air is brought in at the top of the doors, creating a wash over the doors, down to the fire bed. Then the hotest air is exhausted out the front, heating ther top of the stove closest to the door the most, as this is closest to the room.
These stoves are way more sensitive to poor draft/wet wood/ too large splits/too much primary air cut off too early than the older units. I spent the first 2 weeks learning to run it really hot, and then started to learn how to cut down the air to get better "wood mileage". Try to run these units at full throttle longer (I don't cut my air below P for about 30 mins after it hits 750 C), and see if you are happier. You are still going top have to reload more often, and I have not yet gotten enough overnight burn duration to allow me to stoke the stove from coals in the AM. But I am warm.
Summary - dry wood, smaller splits (wrist size nor fist size), full throttle for longer, cut primary air back slowly. Hope that helps. The air in Ontario isn't that much different than NS to make these things work so differently
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