Century heat FW3000

[gibbonfd2]

Recently purchased a used CH FW3000 the cast baffle in it was toast .
So here is my question either I buy a replacement vermiculite baffle from SBI for $70 or have seen where some of you have built a baffle from fire bricks. What would you guys do? Do you put the insulation blank back in on top of the vermiculite or fire brick. Thanks for the help guys.


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[EatenByLimestone]

Does that baffle contain the secondary air system? It does on my little Century.

 

[gibbonfd2]

Does that baffle contain the secondary air system? It does on my little Century.

I do have the tubes in mine as well. Does yours have vermiculite or steel baffle l?? This is an older stove made in 2006



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[EatenByLimestone]

Mine has a hollow steel baffle that is part of the secondary air system. The back part of the baffle is made of firebrick.

I think I would use a vermiculite baffle in your case. I'd probably lay kaowool along the edges in order to keep as much smoke flowing over the tubes as possible.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Mine has a hollow steel baffle that is part of the secondary air system. The back part of the baffle is made of firebrick.

I think I would use a vermiculite baffle in your case. I'd probably lay kaowool along the edges in order to keep as much smoke flowing over the tubes as possible.

Interesting. Mind me asking you to explain your thoughts on the kaowool along the edges? SBI discontinued the blankets on their more recent offerings. I ask because I feel like I could get more usable heat out of mine, and considered using a blanket to slow down the flow up the chimney.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Sure. Century/CFM doesn't/didn't make high priced stoves. I picked up mine on clearance, but after tax it was $242 new and out the door. They had major cost constraints trying to keep them at their price point. Probably made for 100 and sold to Lowe's for 150?

In my stove, this showed where baffle and firebrick met. This joint had obvious leaks where smoke could flow up through the baffle. My stove was small, and I needed every bit of heat and efficiency out of it. I started poking kaowool into all the little gaps as it would allow the firebrick and metal to expand at their respective rates. I also had the tube that preheated air running from the back of the baffle, in the middle of the firebox, straight out the back of the stove. I added insulation above this also as had a leak around it, and I figured I'd have secondaries kick off a bit earlier if I could raise the temp of the air bit.

My Englander has a fiber board baffle with gaps around the edges. I pushed kaowool into the gaps along the wall there too.

These ideas seemed to have worked. I didn't see the smoke being pulled up between the firebricks anymore.

 

[begreen]

PE's floating baffle has kaowool batting on the sides to prevent leakage too.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Sure. Century/CFM doesn't/didn't make high priced stoves. I picked up mine on clearance, but after tax it was $242 new and out the door. They had major cost constraints trying to keep them at their price point. Probably made for 100 and sold to Lowe's for 150?

In my stove, this showed where baffle and firebrick met. This joint had obvious leaks where smoke could flow up through the baffle. My stove was small, and I needed every bit of heat and efficiency out of it. I started poking kaowool into all the little gaps as it would allow the firebrick and metal to expand at their respective rates. I also had the tube that preheated air running from the back of the baffle, in the middle of the firebox, straight out the back of the stove. I added insulation above this also as had a leak around it, and I figured I'd have secondaries kick off a bit earlier if I could raise the temp of the air bit.

My Englander has a fiber board baffle with gaps around the edges. I pushed kaowool into the gaps along the wall there too.

These ideas seemed to have worked. I didn't see the smoke being pulled up between the firebricks anymore.

This is great. I've been thinking the same thing, regarding leakage around the sides and back of the baffle. Any idea where to get small quantities of kaowool? I had surplus from my install of my liner, but it got discarded as waste when I wasn't paying attention. All the clutter!

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I got mine from a local stove shop. I had some from a liner install too.

I don't see why mineral will wouldn't work, it's just not as fluffy so you'd probably need a stick to shove it in tight spots.

 

[gibbonfd2]

had the chance to get the stove moved in today. Pretty excited about it hoping to get the piping installed next Sunday


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[Easy Livin’ 3000]

View attachment 201346 had the chance to get the stove moved in today. Pretty excited about it hoping to get the piping installed next Sunday


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Looking good! Keep trucking.

 

[gibbonfd2]

Does anyone have a picture of the inside of there stove I want to see how the baffle sits above the air tubes and the spacing thanks guy


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[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Does anyone have a picture of the inside of there stove I want to see how the baffle sits above the air tubes and the spacing thanks guy


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Hard to get a picture that'll make any sense. No matter, if you are using a solid baffle, it should sit tight to the back and sides. All the flow should go out and up right above door. I measured the space in the front of my stove, which is very similar to yours, it's 2.5 inches from the front of the baffle, horizontally, to the deflector plate. I personally think 1.5 to 2" would be better, but I didn't engineer and test the stove.