Chain Issues

[bholler]

You said the secret ingredient, to make a decent profit, sharpen the chain on the saw and get back to work, that's all I was saying, there are no quick fixes in the woods

But swapping chains is only going to add a couple mins to the time to process a cord. Even adding in the time on the grinder in the shop.

How long does it take to process a cord?

 

[Ashful]

How long does it take to process a cord?

A little longer each year, or at least it feels that way.

 

[bholler]

A little longer each year, or at least it feels that way.

Very true.

 

[Osage]

Maybe some day you will learn, start at the top of the tree and work down the trunk, and another item, how far up are metal objects? Everywhere?, it sounds like you are in hedgerows, i.e., fencelines, not full on logging, where man meets the woods

Why climb a tree if you can have it laying on the ground in front of you?😉

 

[Osage]

Why would I care about delivering a cord before noon? I am simply cutting my 3 to 4 cords a year. I am going to cut the whole thing regardless. Now yes most of the time I do start at the top because that simply makes the most sense and is safest but not always.

I start cutting at the top on my second cut. My first cut is at the bottom to get top at the same level as the bottom.

 

[salecker]

I cant remember when i bought a new chain.I find 20-30 chains a year at the dump
I have a couple grinders,one will be just for rakers.
When i need a bar and chain i look through my stock of used stuff.I find a bar and chains for it then dress the bar on my 2x72 belt grinder with a 90 degree table on it.The chains get a run through the grinder taking just enough to get a fresh face on most of the cutters.Sometimes there will be shorter cutters for whatever reason.Those i take care of separately.As the chain gets used they will eventually be the same lenght.
For touch ups i use a file or a dremmel tool with a stone.
The biggest issue when it comes to sharpening is learning what the cutting tooth does .Then you can sharpen it with any tool that works.Because you know what the finished product should look and cut like.

 

[ericm979]

The biggest issue when it comes to sharpening is learning what the cutting tooth does .Then you can sharpen it with any tool that works.Because you know what the finished product should look and cut like.

Yep. It's the knowledge, not the tool, that's important.

Some decades ago I had a job where I was running a saw 8 hours a day. I didn't know how to sharpen chains when I started. It took a couple weeks and some failed experiments to get it down. I filed freehand then. Most of my sharpening still is with a file. I also have a grinder. I use it on the rare damaged chain, and also after 5-10 filings to even up both sides. When I'm working I sometimes carry an extra chain in case I damage the one I'm using. But I'm always working on my property so I'm just a short UTV drive from my garage if I need something. If I was driving an hour out to the woods for a day's work, I'd bring way more stuff, including a file. It depends on the situation.

If the OP's still with us, some close up pics of the chain in question might result in a diagnosis.

 

[Sawset]

1) 2) ms261,stump chain, 13yrs old, missing 1/2 the teeth on one side, no attention paid to tooth length, .063 links measure .057
Bar recently filed flat
3) 4) ms261,new chain
Same bar as above
5) ms462, new chain
New bar.
What's up - why do my junk chains with missing teeth still cut straight. But if the bar is worn, they may cut straight, maybe not. All of these were maintained with a 2:1 and round file.

 

[Ashful]

What's up - why do my junk chains with missing teeth still cut straight.

Cuz you have mad skillz!

 

[cahaak]

I generally don't have to fell, only cut to length for splitting. I have a grinder, a fairly nice accurate one. I have not used it in at least four years, there is simply no reason to. Everyone should learn to file by hand, it is honestly very easy. I file freehand with a file in a end handle. With witness marks on all modern chains, the only thing you need to worry about is the secondary filing angle and that is relatively forgiving. I touch up file my chains after every second tank of gas, it takes less than five minutes and it is much easier than changing chains, because it is a guarantee that you will have to retension a new chain shortly after it gets hot from cutting. With hand filing, I can easily get at least 20 sharpenings from a single chain - that is at least 20 cords cut to length. Don't rock out your chain, keep it off the ground at all costs and touch up file it frequently - it is way more productive that way.

I think a lot of people have a fear of hand filing a chain, it is really very easy to file freehand with just some practice, which you will get if you are cutting very much wood.

For the OP, if your cut is pulling to one side, either you don't have the same angles on each side, or the tooth lengths are quite different, or only one side of the teeth is sharpened. It would be highly unlikely to be caused from the rakers. When you hand file, you can see all of this very easily and correct for it.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

when your out cutting and you do some filing ...it a nice break as well ..

 

[Garbanzo62]

So pulled out the Stihl sharpening set , file sharpened and adjusted the depth. Helped, but still a slight pull to the right. Took it to be professionally sharpened. I have some dead ash that has fallen so will be cutting later this week. We will see how it goes.

 

[Ashful]

Did you evaluate the bar? Chain issues are always more likely than bar issues, considering non-pro usage hours, but it doesn't rule them out.

 

[Isaac Carlson]

Bars need to be dressed lightly every few chains.

 

[bholler]

Bars need to be dressed lightly every few chains.

It helps if you flip it with every chain also