Chain sharpening question .

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I have been hand sharpening for two years after I took my chain to be sharpened by Ace Hardware and it came back worse than when I dropped it off. I am not good at it and it is frustrating because it seems to dull quickly and throw sawdust instead of shredded wood when cutting. I did get into some hickory yesterday with what I thought was a freshly sharpened chain and was disappointed and that's how I landed here. I have read that Hickory is tough on chains but I am sure my sharpening needs to improve. I also noticed in the video above, the amount of material that was visibly coming off the chain, I don't seem to see that.

I must have gotten into some rocks or something a few weeks ago because I noticed I had 3 teeth missing from my chain. If that happens when do you just replace it?
 
I've been using dremels to sharpen chains. I use an electric one at home and a battery powered one out in the field. It is fast. So far so good.
 
...I noticed I had 3 teeth missing from my chain...
If you discovered three missing teeth, probably time to replace. There's a good chance others got bent and knocked off their normal "set." You may have a hard time making that chain cut worth a hoot ever again.
 
Yea its probably time for that at least for chain sharpening. Also even better lighting. I added a bunch of light in the garage/shop a few years back but I could use even more over the workbench.

Lots of people don't get that, lighting in a garage is huge. I put 6 led strips in my 18'x21' garage with a total output of 22,000 lumens. Makes a huge difference.

Diffuse light is best, lot of people put big bright bulbs in one or two spots, not that same as multiple lower intensity lights with diffusers.
 
Learn to sharpen your own chains
Most of the time the task is given to the lowest person on the totem pole at a place like Ace.
Once you know what a tooth on a chain is supposed to do,then sharpening them is a lot easier.
I will use a variety of methods for sharpening
I have a couple of grinders now and one will get set up just for doing rakers.
 
Learn to sharpen your own chains
Most of the time the task is given to the lowest person on the totem pole at a place like Ace.
Once you know what a tooth on a chain is supposed to do,then sharpening them is a lot easier.
I will use a variety of methods for sharpening
I have a couple of grinders now and one will get set up just for doing rakers.
I use a dremel tool when i am near my wood truck
Or i will use files for both sharpening and taking the rakers down.
I find most of my chains at the dump.Or i have bought a bucket full for a few bucks at a couple sales.
The first sharpen i put on them is with a grinder to get all the teeth back to being close to the same angels and even rakers out.
 
I have been hand sharpening for two years after I took my chain to be sharpened by Ace Hardware and it came back worse than when I dropped it off. I am not good at it and it is frustrating because it seems to dull quickly and throw sawdust instead of shredded wood when cutting. I did get into some hickory yesterday with what I thought was a freshly sharpened chain and was disappointed and that's how I landed here. I have read that Hickory is tough on chains but I am sure my sharpening needs to improve. I also noticed in the video above, the amount of material that was visibly coming off the chain, I don't seem to see that.

I must have gotten into some rocks or something a few weeks ago because I noticed I had 3 teeth missing from my chain. If that happens when do you just replace it?

Depends on how long the chain is. I have fixed and used long chains with a few broken teeth and not noticed a difference. I'd inspect for more damaged teeth. Usually the teeth that are not damaged can be sharpened.

Often the problem people have with hand filing is not pulling the file up so it files the underside of the tooth. All the guides out there attempt to fix that. I have not used it but the Stihl/Pferd 2 in one seems highly rated. I have done ok with the simple Oregon guide that's basically a plate that clips to the file.

Another problem is not filing enough of the tooth off. The tooth is truly sharp when the hard chrome on the top extends all the way to the edge of the tooth. Unless your eyes are good it takes magnification to see it. You can make a chain that feels sharp but isn't filed back to the hard chrome. It will go dull quick because the underlying steel isn't hard enough to keep an edge.
 
Depends on how long the chain is. I have fixed and used long chains with a few broken teeth and not noticed a difference. I'd inspect for more damaged teeth. Usually the teeth that are not damaged can be sharpened.

Often the problem people have with hand filing is not pulling the file up so it files the underside of the tooth. All the guides out there attempt to fix that. I have not used it but the Stihl/Pferd 2 in one seems highly rated. I have done ok with the simple Oregon guide that's basically a plate that clips to the file.

Another problem is not filing enough of the tooth off. The tooth is truly sharp when the hard chrome on the top extends all the way to the edge of the tooth. Unless your eyes are good it takes magnification to see it. You can make a chain that feels sharp but isn't filed back to the hard chrome. It will go dull quick because the underlying steel isn't hard enough to keep an edge.
Good feedback. I will try to pick up a new one. I am going to try and get this one sharp again before I completely give up on it. It is only a 16 inch bar/chain so 3 teeth missing probably has a larger impact. It is two teeth in a row and then another one about 5 teeth behind.
 
Good feedback. I will try to pick up a new one. I am going to try and get this one sharp again before I completely give up on it. It is only a 16 inch bar/chain so 3 teeth missing probably has a larger impact. It is two teeth in a row and then another one about 5 teeth behind.

That means its two teeth on one side of the kerf and one on the other. That's better than all three on one side. But even that isn't all that bad.

I'd sharpen it and see how it runs.
 
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The 2 in 1 will only sharpen a chain one way, meaning the depth of the file will be the same all the time. It does not allow you to change different angles to experiment. You can swing and tilt the file, but that's it. A grinder lets you develop a recipe and duplicate it every time. I know exactly what to expect from an chain when it comes off the grinder. I carry 5-6 chains with me and I can swap them and they cut exactly the same.
 
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Most normal/beginners benefits from the 2in1 not some of the diehards/pros..just saying .
 
I must have gotten into some rocks or something a few weeks ago because I noticed I had 3 teeth missing from my chain. If that happens when do you just replace it?
Be sure to save it. There will come a day when you have to cut something really dirty, risky, or have to hit dirt to finish a cut. It'll be the perfect chain for the job that day.

It probably doesn't apply to a 16" saw, but cutting the massive timber on the west coast, there were often times where you'd just have to cut to the dirt, or take a very high risk of it, because you weren't moving the huge log until it was cut, and due to the situation, you weren't moving the dirt or rock or whatever either. Folks tried to have a couple of what we referred to as "suicide chains" on hand for those times.
 
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B10044F6-9885-4388-BC3F-3203571D4409.png

I consider myself pretty good at hand filing but I use one of these Husqvarna jigs from tractor supply every now and again and I really like them.
 
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The non blue part can also be run down the bar to cleanout greasy buildup ...
 
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Most normal/beginners benefits from the 2in1 not some of the diehards/pros..just saying .
Once you get old and your hands hurt from arthritis you really appreciate the 2 in 1. Much easier to hold and work with then just a file handle. I don't need to earn my manly diehard badge I just need to sharpen my chain and get back to work with the least amount of pain.
 
If they ground the teeth down and never touched the rakers I’ll bet that’s why your saw isn’t cutting.
 
I've used the 2 in 1 stihl sharpener for a few years now. Isn't it the easiest way to sharpen a chain?
I run mostly skip chain so no 2in1 for me. I use the Husky roller guide and it works very well for me.