So, I'm (sorta) OK at round file shaprening my saw chains. But when I take them in to be machine sharpened at the shop they cut soooooo much better. So, rather than Google and maybe find a good one, or more likely pick out a crappy one knowing my luck, I was wondering what you all recommend for fast, accurate, and good quality chain sharpeners? Budget is under $200. Less $$ preferable if sacrifice is speed more so than quality.
Chain sharpening
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Buzz Saw
Minister of Fire
We use an Oregon. Not sure which model but it's been great for years now. Bought it on Northern Tool
mark cline
Minister of Fire
Me, too from Northern tool, works great .I can sharpen 10 chains in an hr. As soon as you see the chips starting to get dusty, change the chain , it makes it much easier and faster to sharpen. I have about 30 chains so at any one time , I have at least 20 sharp.
Holy chain pile Batman!! 30chains?? you could just have three saws ready to go with that much invested in chains and just swap saws and save the time of changing chains!!
I have a mini Jolly that I picked up off Craigs list for 25 dollars. Works fine for me to grind chains. Slower than a pro model but the price was nice. Most homeowner grinders don't do the rakers so you have to remember to hit those ever other grind or so.
I have a mini Jolly that I picked up off Craigs list for 25 dollars. Works fine for me to grind chains. Slower than a pro model but the price was nice. Most homeowner grinders don't do the rakers so you have to remember to hit those ever other grind or so.
Northern Tool, Harbor Freight, and eBay all have motorized sharpeners for about $100. I have one of these and it works just fine. I also rotate 13 chains, sharpening them all at once and then using all before sharpening again. Usually several hand filing on each chain as well before changing to a different chain. Doing them all at once on the sharpener means that each chain is evenly sharpened at the same sharpener setting and all have even wear. I have been using the same chains since 2002 and I cut about 8-10 cords of fire wood per year, plus logs for up to about 5000 board feet of lumber per year.
Excavator
Feeling the Heat
The Harbor Freight electric sharpener is only 45 bucks and I bought 2 on sale for 19 bucks a piece. They are not a "Oregon" but they work rather well. I use it for my excavating business. This is what I can cut after a quick sharpen with the HF tool.
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jillybeansisme
Member
D8Chumley
Minister of Fire
Doesn't look real safe to me, and I run excavators and dozers. In fact I'm in a Cat 336 right now. Hard to tell on my phone but is someone in that cab?
What ever grinder you end up with (I say get the best one you can because there's no reason to cheap out on a once in a lifetime purchase) you really ought to work on your hand filing. There's no reason you can't keep your chains out-of-the-box sharp. Here's how:
1) Get the right size file - you live here in God's country so I'm assuming you're using a 3/8 chain and the right size file is a 7/32. Some shops will try to convince you to go with a 13/64 claiming that they are better or that there is no difference. They are wrong. Politely insist on a 7/32. And get Stihl files.
2) Get the chain tension right. A chain cannot be properly filed if the chain is loose.
3) Get skip tooth chains. Even on a short bar. I promise you will not notice any difference in cutting speed.
4) Get round tooth (or semi chisel) chains.
Already got 2-3 covered for sure. 90% sure I'm also running round tooth chains.
FWIW, saw is a Husqvarna 350 with a 20" bar.
If you can't file a chain so that it's noticeably better than ground, you need work on the filing. Look into Granberg "File-N-Joint" clamp-on-bar file guide. Makes it really simple to get consistently precise results. Goes for mid-$20s on NT. Instructions are useless, but it's not hard to figure how to get good results.
Forget the skip chain unless you're using a bar that's too long, or the engine is just not getting it done. Or you're feeling lazy or digging ditches.
Forget the skip chain unless you're using a bar that's too long, or the engine is just not getting it done. Or you're feeling lazy or digging ditches.
20" is a lot of bar for that saw. I think they recommend 18" as a max and the saw comes with the smaller chain so you are probably not running 3/8 but with the 20" bar you may be??
That's what she said.
Seriously though, that's what it came with from my dad. And I'm sure he just went with whatever the shop he bought it from recommended. So long as the chain is sharp enough it cuts very well.
You could say that. Part of what I was getting at is that a blanket statement to absolutely, totally go for skip tooth simply makes no sense, IMHO.
You are absolutely entitled to your opinion, but it's a good idea to back it up before publishing it. Did you happen notice the qualifications I spoke of?
There are situations where it's a bad idea to use skip chain. How 'bout limbing? Or in thick brush where there's significant likelihood of kickback?
Things are not generally quite so black & white as you seem to suggest. Never any need to get snippy about simple disagreement, you know.
Never had a problem with the skip-tooth limbing a downed tree, or cutting through blackberries/underbrush. Only times I get any real kickback is when I let the tip of the bar do the cutting, and I avoid that if I can.
No. A bit pushy eh, mein herr? Let me speak for myself.
I love intellectual nazis. Really. They're so predictable, how they twist & distort, like you just did ferinstance. TTFN
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I also have about 30 chains... amounts to a few for each of my bar lengths (12", 20", 28", 36"), the most being 20" and 28". Swap out when dull, then sharpen the dull ones in the evening by the radio, in a heated garage. No daylight time lost to sharpening in the field.
Gentlemen - please.
The moral of the story is that there are far too many variables to claim that one chain is always better than the other. Power /bar length /tooth style /wood density/ wood diameter, etc. they can all change the "formula".
The moral of the story is that there are far too many variables to claim that one chain is always better than the other. Power /bar length /tooth style /wood density/ wood diameter, etc. they can all change the "formula".
I take a few chains out in the field with me, touch them up with a file everytime I add gas. When I get home at the end of the day I sharpen them on my Harbor Freight bench grinder in a heated shop with a beverage. The Harbor Freight sharpener works great.
Excavator
Feeling the Heat
I take my Harbor Freight electric sharpener on my land clearing job sites all the time. I have it set up on a board that I can clamp to my 2 inch truck receiver and have a power inverter in truck for power to run it.
I have this one: (broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bench-Mount-Electric-Chainsaw-Chain-Sharpener-CS-BMM-Timber-Tuff-Logging-/261643677969?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ceb2db111)
I do really like it. and it was worth every penny, but I do have to admit that is is lacking in finesse and ease of use, so I'm looking to get the bigger and better Timber Tuff one, I think the model number is CS-BWM.
I could use the one I have indefinitely, but I kinda like to buy new toys.
I do really like it. and it was worth every penny, but I do have to admit that is is lacking in finesse and ease of use, so I'm looking to get the bigger and better Timber Tuff one, I think the model number is CS-BWM.
I could use the one I have indefinitely, but I kinda like to buy new toys.
Between the Timber Tuff ($150ish) and the Roughneck at Northern Tool ($99) is there any difference in these quality, design, or performance wise? Seems like I should save my $50 bucks and get the NT one...
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