Chain tension

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mywaynow

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Dec 13, 2010
1,369
Northeast
What is a proper tension for the chain? I use an 18 inch chain, and usually you could slide your little finger under the chain if you pulled it up hard enough. Too much or too little?? At idle the chain does not rotate.
 
I like about a 1/4 inch of play and make sure the chain turns freely by hand..(brake off of course)
 
Little finger under; too little tension.
 
smokinjay said:
I like about a 1/4 inch of play and make sure the chain turns freely by hand..(brake off of course)

Brake?? With a name like Wild Thing, who needs a brake! Seriously, I have no brake on that saw.
 
mywaynow said:
smokinjay said:
I like about a 1/4 inch of play and make sure the chain turns freely by hand..(brake off of course)

Brake?? With a name like Wild Thing, who needs a brake! Seriously, I have no brake on that saw.

lol then it should spin easy by hand and about a 1/4 inch of play.
 
mywaynow said:
What is a proper tension for the chain? I use an 18 inch chain, and usually you could slide your little finger under the chain if you pulled it up hard enough. Too much or too little?? At idle the chain does not rotate.

Too much . . . I like to be able to pull up on the chain and have it still stay in the groove of the bar.
 
firefighterjake said:
mywaynow said:
What is a proper tension for the chain? I use an 18 inch chain, and usually you could slide your little finger under the chain if you pulled it up hard enough. Too much or too little?? At idle the chain does not rotate.

Too much . . . I like to be able to pull up on the chain and have it still stay in the groove of the bar.


I don't mind seeing the whole part that rides in the bar groove of a tooth. (If that makes sense) I don't like seeing the bottom of more than one tooth though.

Matt
 
EatenByLimestone said:
firefighterjake said:
mywaynow said:
What is a proper tension for the chain? I use an 18 inch chain, and usually you could slide your little finger under the chain if you pulled it up hard enough. Too much or too little?? At idle the chain does not rotate.

Too much . . . I like to be able to pull up on the chain and have it still stay in the groove of the bar.


I don't mind seeing the whole part that rides in the bar groove of a tooth. (If that makes sense) I don't like seeing the bottom of more than one tooth though.

Matt
That's how 2 different shops told me they do it.
 
I try using awkward silence, offhanded comments and stern looks.
 
For the first 2 years of my cutting experience, I can say that I was making mine too tight. So much so - that I think it contributed to a bar tip sprocket failing. I'd crank it down tight. Now I make sure it moves easily - and when I pull - I don't want to see the tooth bottom come all the way out of the groove. Too much tension makes the saw work harder? Too loose and the chain can jump off the bar? I think I have a good feel for the proper tension these days.
 
basswidow said:
For the first 2 years of my cutting experience, I can say that I was making mine too tight. So much so - that I think it contributed to a bar tip sprocket failing. I'd crank it down tight. Now I make sure it moves easily - and when I pull - I don't want to see the tooth bottom come all the way out of the groove. Too much tension makes the saw work harder? Too loose and the chain can jump off the bar? I think I have a good feel for the proper tension these days.

+1 Funny thing with my 880 it does not spin freely hard nose. (41 inch bar theres a fine line) When milling and lifting off the throttle you can start to get a lot of slack at the end of a run. 20-30 links off the rail. Make You think real quick. It is more of a feeling than what a measurement can do.
 
EatenByLimestone said:
I don't mind seeing the whole part that rides in the bar groove of a tooth. (If that makes sense) I don't like seeing the bottom of more than one tooth though.
I assume this is while lifting up on the chain. I pull up on the chain on the top of the bar using just the weight of the saw pulling down.

When chain is at rest, it does not show any sag.
 
Yes. When looking at it, the bottom of the tooth is completely covered.

Thank ya for correcting what I wrote. I don't want anybody hurt from me forgetting a detail like that.

Matt
 
My saw guy told me when you pull down on the bottom of the chain with a little tension you should see no more that three teeth, make sense?
 
pull on bottom center, should be able to use a no.2 pencil as a "feeler gauge" between bar and chain.
 
They are called "drivers" not teeth in this part of the world.
I make sure bar is all the way up before starting my tensioning step. About half a driver showing when pulled up. Grease the sprocket and go. as chain warms up it grows slightly.

Will
 
Oh boy, :bug:

I have always tightened mine up to the point where I could just barely move it by hand. I am glad I took the time to look at this. I guess I know what I am doing when I get home.

Surprisingly I haven't burned it up yet.....

Scott
 
shamelessLEE said:
bboulier said:

#3 in that article is very critical. If you don't, as soon as your saw is under load it will come loose.
I usually set the tip of my bar up on a block of wood or toolbox and then tighten. Hanging on with hand leaves room for error and cut fingers.

Yea thats nice when your bar reaches! lol
 
If you tighten the chain up after using for a while, don't forget to loosen it when done cutting. The chain will contract while cooling and one can damage the chain and possibly the engine crank if it gets too tight.
 
I always go by "no sag, no drag".
 
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