I purchased a "Garrett Wade", Italian made chain sharpener about a month ago. I have 8 chains under my belt so far, with mixed results. Granted, all chains had been fairly beaten up, but my questions pertain to the sharpener.- Has anyone used/ bought this sharpener? Is the mainshft supposed to have any "slop" in it? What constitutes a good grinding profile on the grinding wheel?- This tool does not offer a mitre/compound angle adjustment, but rather a fixed radius/mitre adjustment only. The reviews were good of course, and I have to admit that it worked quite well for a few of the more chipped-out chains, but a fresh cut from this sharpener only equals a slightly used factory cut tooth. Anybody, any thoughts or experience with this sharpener? I have time left to return it under warranty. BTW, it cost approx. $90 to my door, incl. extra wheel.
Chainsaw chain sharpeners
- Thread starter Beetle-Kill
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Some angles are different so you would have to look at the box that a new chain comes in ...or go to an Oregon site. Cant you line up the hash makes on the top side of the tooth?
You probably already know this but when you use a grinder try and peck away at the chain to prevent the bluing of the tooth. Once that happens...it's done put a fork in it.
edit did you try a 'you tube' search? That site show and tells just about everything.
You probably already know this but when you use a grinder try and peck away at the chain to prevent the bluing of the tooth. Once that happens...it's done put a fork in it.
edit did you try a 'you tube' search? That site show and tells just about everything.
I'm guessing from that question that your grinder does have slop. I have never used a cheap grinder for chains but I did service expensive grinders for sharpening skates. They not only didn't have any slop, they actually had pre-loaded bearings that felt tight when turned. Some guys would cheap out and buy standard bearings and then complain about the quality of the grind. There would be no slop felt by the naked hand but under load would vibrate.Beetle-Kill said:
I'm guessing a $90 grinder doesn't use pre-loaded bearings since the bearing alone cost more than that.
Many people think that with practice, you can get a sharper chain by hand filing than you can with a grinder... The file people mostly will only use a grinder if they hit a rock or metal in the wood and seriously bugger up the chain... One of the problems with most grinders is that they aren't reversible, so you end up sharpening one cutter in the "wrong" direction - i.e. from the outside of the cutter in, which can contribute to causing the chain to cut in a curve to one side. (and reversing the grinder isn't all that great an idea as it would then be shooting the sparks and such out at the operator instead of away from him.)
Personally I have a cheapo Harbor Freight grinder that I haven't used in ages, and would only consider using if I had a "rocked" chain that I couldn't clean up with a file...
Gooserider
Personally I have a cheapo Harbor Freight grinder that I haven't used in ages, and would only consider using if I had a "rocked" chain that I couldn't clean up with a file...
Gooserider
Shorter chain life with a grinder is completely dependent upon the operator, not only of the grinder but the saw as well. That said I do not have the inexpensive grinders. I use a file on occasion in the field. I have replaced 4 chains between 3 different saws over the past 3 years at a rate of 15 cords a year because of sharpening, add one more as I sheared a bunch of cutters off it when I found some barbed wire in a log ( it was on it's last use anyway). I have not needed a new bar in eight years. Although my 24" unit is getting pretty worn( have to run a couple links shorter than what it calls for now days) One of the services I provide at my shop is sharpening chainsaw blades, so I do a lot of them. I am very careful to not burn the cutters with the wheel. A lot of the perception of grinders leading to shorter chain life is two fold. 1 improper operation of the grinder, and /or improper dressing of the wheel. If your wheel is not dressed frequently it will load up and cause burning of the cutters ( will happen with any type of grinding wheel). Leads to shorter wheel life, but nothings free.
2 chains that are so badly trashed in the first place by improper use and lack of maintenance of the bar and saw that you need to remove a third or more of the cutter to clean them up.
Sorry rant off
2 chains that are so badly trashed in the first place by improper use and lack of maintenance of the bar and saw that you need to remove a third or more of the cutter to clean them up.
Sorry rant off
blades said:
+1 iam with you! add a cyclone wheel for cool grinding. I ave 20+ cords a year 3 years running and havent worn out a chain yet
I don't see that any special endorsement. I hand filed my chain 4 times for the 24 cord that I bucked up and I can't see 4 grindings eating up a chain either.smokinj said:
Big thing with wheel grinders is they are agressive. The remove a lot of product fast. If you bit in too quick you will take the hardening out of the chain. I learned the hard way....
not had any issue with clogging or over heating the cutter yet. They do cost alot thats for sureblades said:
[quote author="mike1234" date="1252996330"]Those of you that sharpen with an electric sharpener, is there a video on youtube or would you make a video of you sharpening your chain? I'd like to see someone sharpening their chain with one that is not totally automatic.[/quote
ok
ok
I really like that grinder wheel, but it's 250.00 or so isn't it?
I was mostly worried that I may be overheating the chain, I don't turn it blue, but when people say nibble away at it, I thought I might be doing too much. But from what I see, I do it basically like you.
Thanks for posting that, it really helps to see others do it correctly to see how I might need to change the way I do it.
I was mostly worried that I may be overheating the chain, I don't turn it blue, but when people say nibble away at it, I thought I might be doing too much. But from what I see, I do it basically like you.
Thanks for posting that, it really helps to see others do it correctly to see how I might need to change the way I do it.
mike1234 said:
just set the stops sometimes you may take a little more each nibble but the stop will keep them all the same. I found the 511a with the cyclone wheel on ebay for 200.00 buck it was a great find
Thanks to this tread I got a wild hair and sharpen all 12 of my chains should be loaded for bear!
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