In my experience "torque sticks" are better than an impact wrench with an impact socket on them, but I don't like them for my vehicles. Like a previous poster in this thread I have two sets of rims, one with summer tires, the other with winter tires. When the time comes to switch, all I need is a jack, a torque wrench and some time. When I go to the tire shop, all they get is my rims to mount tires and balance, I do my own changes.
I once upon a time had a car with a finicky suspension and learned to torque in a star pattern to 50 ft/lb first pass and then final torque, usually about 100 ft lb, final pass - with the car on the ground. Same with loosening as another poster has already said, I get the jack under whatever corner, raise the vehicle maybe a quarter of an inch, break the lug nuts free maybe a quarter turn, then raise the vehicle on the jack, and retorque on the way out once the tire is touching the ground. I want just enough weight on the tire to take the torque, with most of that corner's weight still held by the jack.
The nice thing about the fussy car, when I had street tires replaced, I could do a couple burnouts on the way home to burn the shipping finish off the rear tires, then rotate F-R same day by hand with my torque wrench and a star pattern, and have an excuse to make a little more tire smoke next time the car was on the street.
What I learned to do on the fussy car in 2004 that is still working flawlessly for me is 50 ftlb first pass star pattern, 100 ft lb (check your manual) final pass - then drive a quarter mile or so with 4 lefts and 4 rights - a largish figure 8- retorque to 100ftlbs and relax.
I have been using a notably expensive cold weather lube on my studs to minimize rust. I just read the label, Tetra Gun Grease. It is about a dollar per gram and works great on cold weather firearms and my wheel studs. I started lubing my wheel studs when I was driving 70s and 80s GM products with pass through lug nuts that left the tip of each wheel stud exposed to the weather. I will try motor oil this fall when I change again, I just want a rust inhibitor on there- historically I get 250k to 400k miles out of my Toyotas- and have a lot of tire rotations on the way.