Cherry wood and....??

[all night moe]

Definitely not Catalpa. Catalpa is very light when dry, and burns like paper.
Gone before you know it.
The bark is different to.

 

[hickoryhoarder]

To me the bark has hints of sassafras. The wood of the diagonal split might be to light/yellowish (rather than beige), but wanted to throw this out there.
Is it easy to split? Bark underneath a bit orange? Fragrant?

I agree. The bark in that last photo has me thinking sassafras.

 

[bigealta]

Yup the smell is a dead give away for sassafras. Sassafras soda or root beer smell. Very light when dry, burns very fast. Good for short hot fires, Not good for long burns.

 

[CincyBurner]

Pic from post #5 looks like it could be sassafras - beige color for wood and cinnamon bark.
Sassafras bark is soft and cuts easily with knife (cinnamon color), and will have characteristic spicy aroma. Hickory and oak bark is tough.

 

[kennyp2339]

Vines with red hairs or fuzz are usually poison ivy, stay clear, oils still active in any season or weather.

 

[all night moe]

Vines with red hairs or fuzz are usually poison ivy, stay clear, oils still active in any season or weather.

I am pretty much immune to poison ivy. I've been in it enough to develop a resistance from tree working. It has to be early in its season when the leaves have their reddish tint and very oily for me to be affected.

The worst is virginia creeper. Seems to be the hairiest, and doesn't secrete oils. It ends up being some kind of allergic skin reaction. It messed me up bad once and I've witnessed countless others break out also. Some even put the ivy skin blocker that keeps oils from absorbing into skin. Like said, does not work.

 

[bigealta]

I am pretty much immune to poison ivy. I've been in it enough to develop a resistance from tree working. It has to be early in its season when the leaves have their reddish tint and very oily for me to be affected.

The worst is virginia creeper. Seems to be the hairiest, and doesn't secrete oils. It ends up being some kind of allergic skin reaction. It messed me up bad once and I've witnessed countless others break out also. Some even put the ivy skin blocker that keeps oils from absorbing into skin. Like said, does not work.

Virginia creeper poisonous? I pull it out bare hand all the time. No problem ever. Never heard of anyone reacting to it. Poison ivy on the other hand would get me every time, but after having it everywhere on my body when I was a teenager and had to go to hospital to get a shot I can see it or the roots a mile away.

 

[all night moe]

Virginia creeper poisonous?

I don't know ..... I know how to identify it. I researched it to gain my knowledge after my bad experience with it. I read it as an allergic reaction and an oil less plant. This vine's foliage is a bright red in the fall. Hairy as all hell.

Years ago I helped out a friend doing tree work. Customer had numerous trees aligned down a LONG drive way. Guy I was working with cut all the vines a little over a year prior. He had a small light duty crane that was originality used for sign installations. I wore a long sleeved shirt and rode the ball, cutting where need be and ripping them out with gloved hands. The next day my forearms were covered in a scaly rash. They looked like sleeves. Itchy doesn't come close to describing it. I only treated with rubbing alcohol thinking it was an oil based reaction, even though I "never" get poison ivy reactions. It wasn't peak season for it at all. I talked to another friend of mine who told me it was most likely "the creeper." After 3 days my skin was 95% normal again. Nothing like I've ever experienced with any of the ivys.

 

[bigealta]

Poison ivy vines are worse than the leaves. Often Virginia creeper and poison ivy grow in the same spots and can easily be mistaken for each other. I bet it’s poison ivy vine that got you even if you are somewhat immune.

 

[all night moe]

Poison ivy vines are worse than the leaves. Often Virginia creeper and poison ivy grow in the same spots and can easily be mistaken for each other. I bet it’s poison ivy vine that got you even if you are somewhat immune.

Could have been. There were no leaves for ID. The vine itself had more hairs then I've seen in any ivy though. When I see those same vines in the fall they have them bright scarlet red leaves......

I'll never know for sure. They are long gone.

 

[Dfw245]

Pic from post #5 looks like it could be sassafras - beige color for wood and cinnamon bark.
Sassafras bark is soft and cuts easily with knife (cinnamon color), and will have characteristic spicy aroma. Hickory and oak bark is tough.

That's kinda how it wound up being. Sliced very easily off with a steak knife. I burned some of it and while it definitely sparked a medium amount, it didn't burn very fast. Granted, it was 40° out and in a fire pit with some red oak. I'm guessing it's still very green. Was dripping and sizzling and bubbling. Put a meter to it and it's reading about 17%-19%. So not too too seasoned. Some kiln dried white birch I had burned like it was paper. This stuff took a min to get going. I'm laying them out to season for a bit more.

 

[Dfw245]

Vines with red hairs or fuzz are usually poison ivy, stay clear, oils still active in any season or weather.

Would you say that looks like ivy? We've touched it a fair amount with nothing this far. But I don't wanna jinx it ya kno?

 

[Dfw245]

Is there a way to split the wood further into thinner splits without any sort of stand or equipment? I mean obviously I'd go grab an axe or hatchet, but it's just my backyard. Do I have to have a large stump to set the piece on? Stuff like that. Got the wood and some pieces are just wider than I'd prefer

 

[stoveliker]

A hatched and a heavy hammer would do it; place the hatchet on the end of the split (keeping it upright that way) and hit the back of the hatchet with the heavy hammer.
That's how I make kindling in the garage when it's cold out - whacking with the hatchet would work, but I don't want to have it go in the concrete floor.

Also, your 17-19%, did you measure that in (!) a split that is *at room temperature* (i.e. has been in the home for 24 hrs) and on a freshly exposed surface, i.e. a re-split split?

You have to know the moisture content inside the log. Measuring on the outside gives you a value that's way too low because the split dries from the outside in. If it was that sizzling, I think your moisture content will be far higher than the value you measured.

And you have to measure it at room temperature (it's a electrical resistance measurement, and the lower the temperature, the higher the resistance, making the meter think it's drier - so measure at 30 degrees and you may have to add 3% to the reading). Freezing will further mess up the measurement.

So these two things (temp and fresh split surface) could compound easily to you being near 30% moisture content here.

 

[kennyp2339]

I helped out a friend last year the bought wood that was split to wide for his stove, went over with my fiskers and a 18" tire, he was scratching his head, but the light bulb went off when he saw me stand a bunch of splits in the tire and whack away without them flying all over the place.

 

[kennyp2339]

Would you say that looks like ivy? We've touched it a fair amount with nothing this far. But I don't wanna jinx it ya kno?

When is see suspicious vines, I tend to treat it like a snake, is it poisonous? mehh it dont know and I dont care to find out.

 

[Dfw245]

A hatched and a heavy hammer would do it; place the hatchet on the end of the split (keeping it upright that way) and hit the back of the hatchet with the heavy hammer.
That's how I make kindling in the garage when it's cold out - whacking with the hatchet would work, but I don't want to have it go in the concrete floor.

Also, your 17-19%, did you measure that in (!) a split that is *at room temperature* (i.e. has been in the home for 24 hrs) and on a freshly exposed surface, i.e. a re-split split?

You have to know the moisture content inside the log. Measuring on the outside gives you a value that's way too low because the split dries from the outside in. If it was that sizzling, I think your moisture content will be far higher than the value you measured.

And you have to measure it at room temperature (it's a electrical resistance measurement, and the lower the temperature, the higher the resistance, making the meter think it's drier - so measure at 30 degrees and you may have to add 3% to the reading). Freezing will further mess up the measurement.

So these two things (temp and fresh split surface) could compound easily to you being near 30% moisture content here.

May have to get a hatchet and use a hammer then. Didn't think about that. I'll make some kindling pieces at some point. But I'm leaning more towards resplitting some half pieces. As if they split the log in half and left it. Hopefully the hammer method works.

And no it was measured outside. Some of the cherry was reading 20. Some of the red oak I have is reading 18-19. And the 'sass' is reading 16. But as you said, that wasn't on a freshly split, room temp piece. I chainsawed some cherry pieces atg in half and metered the inside ends, read about 23-24. So I wonder how the sass would read if done the proper way. Again, that was outside. That cherry might in fact be closer to 25. Granted it's 70° out today

 

[Dfw245]

When is see suspicious vines, I tend to treat it like a snake, is it poisonous? mehh it dont know and I dont care to find out.

Wise words. Will take those to the grave

 

[stoveliker]

Wise words. Will take those to the grave

the idea of such wise words (I agree) is to avoid that grave for a while

On the moisture; I suspect (but have not tested) that sawing rather than splitting might also artificially decrease the measured value from what it needs to be - because the fibers are messed up (a bit), hindering conduction, thus leading to a lower value displayed.

I'd stick with the number that appears when one follows the manual of the moisture meter (which is splitting after letting it get to room temp - and if it's 70 outside, that's fine).

 

[Dfw245]

Lol I definitely plan on avoiding said grave.

But yeah that makes sense also. Maybe this wood is just greener than I thought. The sass and the cherry I mean. The red oak didn't quite light super fast like white birch, but it definitely caught and I didn't hear alot of sizzling. Just seems everyone here in DFW area only seasons for 6-8months worth and THEN splits said wood. Really need to find a reputable guy. The guy I got my red oak from gives me a wonderful deal so I'll be using him for a while, but ideally I'd love for the splits I get to be between 10-14 for moisture. A bit on the dry side I get it, but I also use it in my smoker and drier pieces are easier to predict. Maybe I need to split some of this sass and see what it's reading today. Can't really use it as my fire starters if it's sitting at 25%

the idea of such wise words (I agree) is to avoid that grave for a while

On the moisture; I suspect (but have not tested) that sawing rather than splitting might also artificially decrease the measured value from what it needs to be - because the fibers are messed up (a bit), hindering conduction, thus leading to a lower value displayed.

I'd stick with the number that appears when one follows the manual of the moisture meter (which is splitting after letting it get to room temp - and if it's 70 outside, that's fine).

 

[stoveliker]

If you can, get the wood now (before March) that you estimate you'll need next winter. Split it (if not already done), stack it on a few pallets (or any other way to keep it off the ground), cover it on the top. Ideal if the sun can shine on it. With your climate it'll be ok next winter. The oak I'm not sure about, but it's possible (@DuaeGuttae may know) where you are, I think.

So, try to "get ahead" by one year. (All the rest of us have to be two years, I am three, and I know others are 5-10 years ahead. Yes, we're all firewood nuts - but our stoves run fantastically well and clean.)

 

[DuaeGuttae]

In my experience, wood, even oak, properly split and stacked dries easily in one summer in my climate. In all honesty, most of our wood remains unsplit because of its size, and even not stacked it dries. I know that I am definitely an outlier, however, because of my hot climate and recent droughts. When we’re on the ball, we stack our wood in a back room of a barn that acts like a solar kiln, and then we can really dry it fast. It’s possible to stack wood on a pallet or simple rack and wrap it in clear plastic with some venting to get the same effect. The sun is Texas is a major help. There are threads with good instructions.

Even though @Dfw245 and I are both in Texas, I am much farther west and south, and so I think the rainfall and humidity are quite different. It’s possible that member @Tron in Mississippi would have more accurate advice based on his climate. I’m also not sure what moisture goal is needed for using wood in a smoker rather than in an EPA stove. That’s out of my league. Maybe @Poindexter would be the authority on that.

I was thinking of this thread the other day when my husband and I were splitting some cherry from a tree that died last winter that he cut earlier this month. It was so obviously wet compared to the other wood we were processing which had been lying around for months, and it was testing above 30% on a moisture meter. Normally I can only get those measurements on my palm. I put the cherry on a pallet in the back room of our barn. I walked in there yesterday just to see what things were looking like, and the aroma was lovely! I can understand why it’s great smoking wood.

 

[haber bosch]

In my experience, wood, even oak, properly split and stacked dries easily in one summer in my climate. In all honesty, most of our wood remains unsplit because of its size, and even not stacked it dries. I know that I am definitely an outlier, however, because of my hot climate and recent droughts. When we’re on the ball, we stack our wood in a back room of a barn that acts like a solar kiln, and then we can really dry it fast. It’s possible to stack wood on a pallet or simple rack and wrap it in clear plastic with some venting to get the same effect. The sun is Texas is a major help. There are threads with good instructions.

Even though @Dfw245 and I are both in Texas, I am much farther west and south, and so I think the rainfall and humidity are quite different. It’s possible that member @Tron in Mississippi would have more accurate advice based on his climate. I’m also not sure what moisture goal is needed for using wood in a smoker rather than in an EPA stove. That’s out of my league. Maybe @Poindexter would be the authority on that.

I was thinking of this thread the other day when my husband and I were splitting some cherry from a tree that died last winter that he cut earlier this month. It was so obviously wet compared to the other wood we were processing which had been lying around for months, and it was testing above 30% on a moisture meter. Normally I can only get those measurements on my palm. I put the cherry on a pallet in the back room of our barn. I walked in there yesterday just to see what things were looking like, and the aroma was lovely! I can understand why it’s great smoking wood.

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Do you have any thoughts on what stoves (or types of stoves) are better suited for burning various qualities and types of wood vs being optimized for "perfect hardwoods at correct humidity"?

 

[stoveliker]

all modern stoves need "correct humidity" to work well.
And, if one has the correct dryness, type of wood does not matter much.

 

[Dfw245]

I might have to start buying wood in advance. Yes 100° summers are the norm here so maybe it truly is possible to get seasoned in one summer. I will say tho that even tho it was on the wetter side, alot of that red oak burned pretty darn good.

And yes cherry is AMAZING to smoke with. I don't too much know the aroma when splitting as I do when burning it. It smells lovely when burning, a bit more crisp than apple and a tad sweeter smelling. I've also noticed here in tx, burning apple wood tends to attracts droves of flies. It's like they love it. Cherry? Doesn't. But it's too green to use so it'll sit I suppose. The sass is honestly a bit too green also, it burns but crackles n pops to all hell.

And also, I don't have a wood stove. I just use a traditional fireplace where I have to do all the work. Not sure how efficient that is, but it somewhat warms the areas downstairs. I have noticed however that the pieces of red oak seem to be burning faster than I anticipated. Bought a half cord to last me till next winter. 20" logs. Seems like it may not even last me till March. Going through about 20-25 logs in a day normal? Got downstairs temps up to 76° from 65. For 12 hours. I surely hope I'm not burning too fast.

That aside, thanks for everyone's help with the sass and all the invaluable advice. Looks like I'll be a stable member here. Plenty of good people.

Also, looks like Ill have to find a good splitting and stacking method. Also need to find a good supplier to get wood from. Aside from the 120 for a half cord, everyone here charges at least 240 for a half FACE cord...that's unacceptable lol if anyone know of any people or spots in DFW area of Texas(willing to drive up to 2hrs though) with some wood, I'd appreciate it