Chimney and Liner Products

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I got the hole for the tee and the exterior portion of the thimble mounted for the cooker chimney. I'm hoping tomorrow with help from my wife I can get the whole thing finished up. I could not get the wall support bracket flush with the bottom of the tee without help.

I ended up with Selkirk Super Pro instead of the Jeremia's Chimney, my vendor could not get it in a reasonable amount of time.
 
Teamwork is good.
 
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I ordered my Ventis double wall pipe chimney system from Hart's hearth and homestead out of North Carolina. I went with the 316 ss line. UPS delivered it and I installed it myself. I ordered the complete system from black stove pipe, stainless double wall pipe, strapping, and cap. I installed a similar setup you describe but had to jog around my overhang.
 
Teamwork is good.
I also realized that if I had just connected the tee to the cookstove it would have held it in place. I'm hoping to get the plumbing and chimney all done by Thursday evening. Just waiting on some flex pipe and 3/4 pex to do the plumbing for the house and cooker.
 
This is the only part of the flue system that is not class A. My magnetic thermo doesn't want to stay on it. Any other way to measure flue temps?
 

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Can you wrap the pipe with a black (or matching color) steel band, clamped in the rear. Then you could put the magnetic thermos on the band which would transfer the heat reading with hopefully little loss in accuracy.
 
Thermocouple screwed to the pipe?
 
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My first floor is almost entirely gutted and we are planning significant changes to the house. One of which is a wood cook stove in the kitchen. I have found a UL listed model that does all the things I want and even has a rear vent. I've been reading around the forums and have seen Ventis and Excel as being the top players for a chimney. My plan is to rear vent the cook stove right through the wall into a T and then up the side of the house. I don't have any roof overhangs to deal with so it should all be fairly straight forward and easy as far as a chimney install goes. I currently have a scaffolding tower as well. Anything I should know before contacting dealers and getting pricing for chimney? Since this will be an exterior chimney I want the most insulated class A pipe I can find. Second on my list of priorities is ease of install and cleaning. My wife and I have been talking about putting a chase around the chimney, but we really don't like the idea.

Recently I saw a thread here, https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/clever-german-chimney-tee-with-cleanout.175343/ , that talks about a really neat T with a door that would make my life way easier. So far it doesn't seem like anyone has experience with this product. I'm considering being a guinea pig.

I suspect this coming winter I'll have far more cold starts with running two wood appliances and want to put a good liner inside of my masonry chimney for my Morso and use double wall connector pipe with two 45's. Insulation for the liner seems less significant in this application with an interior chimney since the house is insulated already. However, I'm no expert or professional, so I welcome any advice for this. It seems like the most straightforward method is to use a rope and pull a liner through the chimney. There is a clean out door on the bottom if that helps. I'm all ears for this venture as well.

I happen to live in Germany, my chimney liner has this T section with the cleanout door (the liner in my brick chimney is stainless steel, this setup is pretty standard here for SS chimneys and liners).

The T-Section with the cleanout door usually is to be found at basement level where the chimney base is, but if it is a chimney that was built on ground level from the outside, the cleanout door might appear on the outside of the chimney at ground level.

Full stainless steel chimney (it's called Class-A in the US?) sometimes have an additional T-section with an additional cleanout door at the top of the chimney for the chimney sweep if the chimney is really tall.

That structure (with the T-section and cleanout door etc) is a requirement in order to comply with some regulations.

What I have seen they do here with brick chimney modernization, is if the chimney is wide enough - they will somehow assemble the stainless steel liner by lowering sections into the chimney mouth and padding with rockwool for insulation, with minimal damage to the chimney (here and there they punch a small opening to pull stuff around, or at the area where a section that is not straight needs to be installed in the brick chimney, like for an example a T-Section or a cleanout door).

I have a stainless steel liner that is not flexible, those are 1mm thick straight tube sections that each have one "female end" so they sit one on top of the other, I have seen some companies lowering the sections from the top of the chimney with some type of roping system - I do not have experience with this since we have build the fireplace chimney from the bottom up as new (brickwork, liner etc..)

My setup is basically whats called here "3 times insulated", that means that the chimney is made from special square concrete chimney bricks which contain insulation granular material in them, those are bricked further from the outside with red bricks (called here "klinker", I mean the real baked bricks, not deco thin panels), then from the inside the stainless steel liner is being layed, stuffed from all sides with 2-3cm thick pads of rockwool insulation.

so we have the following layers:

1. red brick (klinker)
2. concrete chimney blocks which contains insulation granular
3. rockwool insulation

and inside all of that lays the single-walled stainless steel liner.

*Also, if any chimney extension above the end of the brick chimney is to be required, it will be a double-walled insulated chimney extension so the insulation will continue all the way to the tip.

I have added an image I have found on the internet, of how those "Chimney renovation" kits usually look alike here.

Hope that helps a bit.

If you have any question, let me know, I can ask around here and write back.
 

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Thermocouple screwed to the pipe?
Do you have a product recommendation? I'm a little overwhelmed when looking up information about thermocouples and what to buy, plus something to display the reading...
 
Do you have a product recommendation? I'm a little overwhelmed when looking up information about thermocouples and what to buy, plus something to display the reading...
Auber instruments make some good simple ones that aren't terribly expensive