chimney liner recommendations for lining my heatilator fireplace

[afptl]

OK, tried to just do a direct connect on my vermont castings intrepid II. couldn't make it work with out major gymnastics. I have decided to do the chimney liner myself. My boys will help me do it and are generally handy for their ages. I'm real handy for a girl, as my hubby is self employed and not home enough to help out. So I have learned to do TONS of stuff.

Back to the chimney liner--called and talked to someone on chimney liner depot and he said they sell a flex line that is smooth inside. Does any one have any experience with this? Honestly, I just don't want to split hairs or buy the Cadillac model. Just basic that works is fine with me. The liner depot guy was talking about a blanket thing that you wrap and plug up the bottom of the flue by the damper. It was called: No Foil High Temp Insulation anyone use this? He said you do this instead of a block off plate. This seemed so much easier than the block off plate. I just want to get this stove hooked up and get WARM!

where is your favorite place to order a chimney liner? I am happy with basic, and need 6 inch. Clay flue at the top measures 8 x 13. Thanks for any advice, ann from KY

 

[KarlP]

I've only used Simpson DuraVent flex liner. I think its a good product, but I'd never use it again. In the five years between when I installed my fathers and installed my own, Simpson decided there is absolutely no warranty for their product if it is ordered over the Internet AND you do a self install. I was surprised to read that when the second batch was delivered.

If you want to order it at full price from your local stove dealer and install it yourself OR order on the Internet and then hire a Simpson approved professional installer to install it there is a warranty.

http://www.duravent.com/docs/L210_09.pdf

 

[jtp10181]

So... you have a clay flue? Then you do NOT have a "Heatilator" brand wood fireplace. You probably have a "heatform" with circulating fans, which people often call a heatilator by mistake (like calling a tissue, Kleenex).

For the liner system to have 0" clearance to masonry and the masonry to have 0" clearance to combustibles you need to have some sort of an insulated liner system. Otherwise most liners will require a 1" clearance to the masonry and the masonry itself would need to meet NFPA 211 (or local code) specs for clearances, usually 1 - 2" clearance to combustibles.

A 6" liner with an insulation wrap on it will not fit down an 8x13 OD clay flue. You will need an oval liner which is 4 to 4.5" wide on the skinny side, then with the insulation and mesh you will be at around 5" - 6".

Also the "NO FOIL" insulation is NOT for insulating a liner to meet the 0" clearances. The NO FOIL insulation should only be used as extra insulation packed in the damper area, firebox, or top of the flue. A proper insulation job on a liner will need 3M #77 spray adhesive, 1/2" thick x 24" wide (or 22.5" min I think) FOIL faced insulation blanket, foil tape for the seam, stainless wire mesh boot, (2) giant band clamps.

Have fun ;-)

 

[afptl]

Thanks Karl P and Inferno for answering my post!

I know it is a for real healilator brand because the handle for the dampler says "heatilator" on it. The house has a brick chimney with clay tiles in it. My son climbed up on the roof and measured the clay tile that sticks out at the top. It is metal and when you look through the damper with a flashlight you can see where the metal past the damper is and where the clay flue part starts.

So I need to order the smaller oval liner and insulate it. is there an adapter to make it go to 6 inches on the end so it can go into the stove?

 

[jtp10181]

You must have a good old original Heatilator brand heatform then, the reason they are always called heatilators. I have never seen one myself stamped with heatilator on the damper. Not that it matters, most heatform units are similar in design, and are considered masonry fireplaces for all practical purposes.

You still want an oval liner that would be comparable to a 6" round, nothing smaller. Actually taking a 6" round and making it oval does reduce the cross sectional area, but we have been doing this without any apparent drafting problems for the customers. Once you pull it through the damper you can just beat the end of it into a round shape again and attach it to the stove adaptor, the same will have to be done at the top to attach the top plate and cap.

You can also just drop a 6" round liner down uninsulated, as many on here have done and would recommend. This would not meet the safety standards laid out by the industry though.

For the record, we also use the Duravent flexible corrugated liners and they work just fine.

 

[afptl]

Been reading tons on the internet and looking at all the sites that sell Chimney liner. Called and talked to Chimney liner depot guy again. Seems like they have 2 products, Flex King and Flex King Pro. Looks like the pro is almost a double lined liner that is smooth inside. I have about decided on that one without insulation. We are on such a budget and this is already a real stretch. anyone use this? thanks ann