Choker, Chains, and Dragging - oh my

[moglodite]

I plan to get a forest service permit this year to get my wood. It seems most people fell wood near the road, limb them, drag full lengths to the road and buck them there. This is western Montana, we're talking mountains, narrow gravel road, and fir or lodgepole pine.

It is not possible to drive into the forest due to steep terrain and tree density. I've seen of wire rope and chains on some of the local trucks, but I don't know the ideal lengths, thickness, how they're rigged, or how they're skidded.

To some extent I'll need a straight shot, but is it possible to drag up a hillside and up over and onto the roadbed or just downhill? My hauler is a Dodge 4x4 w/ Cummins. Oh yea, now that the log is all dirty from skid, what's the best way to get all the dirt out before bucking?

Thanks!

 

[North of 60]

A bumper mounted winch is your best bet. Less chance of dinging your nice truck. Just dont extend the duty cycle of your winch motor.

 

[savageactor7]

mog I cut a lot of dragged muddy logs in the spring and found the Oregon semi chisel 73G series holds up well. As far as going in and harvesting in those conditions YIKES! I dunno.

 

[SolarAndWood]

If you get a window where the ground is frozen but there isn't a lot of snow, the winch has a much easier job and the tree comes out a lot cleaner. I pulled many full size maples up and over a 40 ft bank with my cheap 8000lb harbor freight atv winch this past winter.

 

[BrotherBart]

I pulled many full size maples up and over a 40 ft bank with my cheap 8000lb harbor freight atv winch this past winter.

An 8,000 lb. winch on an ATV? Yikes.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

And remember that whenever you are going to pull a log, don't hitch it so you pull it straight! (I can just hear the bells ringing on that one, but please hear me out anyway. Humor me.) Always hitch it up so that when you begin to pull the log, the log must roll and turn towards you. It takes much less power to get the log started that way.

If you don't believe this, cut yourself a small log, maybe 6' long. Have that log on dirt too. Hook a rope onto it and just start pulling it straight. Hopefully you've cut the log so that you can just barely move it just a little bit but can't pull it because it is too heavy. Now, hook that rope so that when you pull, the log rolls toward you a half turn and the log actually swivels until it is straight on behind you. I'm betting you can pull that log a whole lot further with a whole lot less effort.

Just a little tip from a former logger.

 

[SolarAndWood]

I pulled many full size maples up and over a 40 ft bank with my cheap 8000lb harbor freight atv winch this past winter.

An 8,000 lb. winch on an ATV? Yikes.

Don't own an ATV...its bolted to the bucket of the tractor.

 

[Flatbedford]

I would pull the logs with that big ol' diesel Dodge. You don't need a winch. You can use what ever length of 5/16" or even 3/8" wire rope you need to reach into the woods. Use a snatch block attached to a tree across the road or a second vehicle to redirect the cable so all you have to do is drive down the road to pull the logs out of the woods. This way yo can save the expense of the winch. Even if you do buy a winch, you will still need to get at least one snatch block and all the other chains, straps, and shackles.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I plan to get a forest service permit this year to get my wood. It seems most people fell wood near the road, limb them, drag full lengths to the road and buck them there. This is western Montana, we're talking mountains, narrow gravel road, and fir or lodgepole pine.

It is not possible to drive into the forest due to steep terrain and tree density. I've seen of wire rope and chains on some of the local trucks, but I don't know the ideal lengths, thickness, how they're rigged, or how they're skidded.

To some extent I'll need a straight shot, but is it possible to drag up a hillside and up over and onto the roadbed or just downhill? My hauler is a Dodge 4x4 w/ Cummins. Oh yea, now that the log is all dirty from skid, what's the best way to get all the dirt out before bucking?

Thanks!

The rules must be different in MT. Here in WA if a ranger saw you falling trees and skidding logs in the NF she/she would come out of his/her tree. NF cutting permits are good for trees or logs in the road and or ditch. Absolutely no falling.

As for the dirty logs - ignore the received wisdom here about "full comp chisel tooth" chains. Get your self a couple round bit skip tooth chains - they are more dirt tolerant, cut very well, and you only have half the teeth to file when it does go dull. Bring a stiff bristle broom and knock the big chunks off before cutting.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I plan to get a forest service permit this year to get my wood. It seems most people fell wood near the road, limb them, drag full lengths to the road and buck them there. This is western Montana, we're talking mountains, narrow gravel road, and fir or lodgepole pine.

It is not possible to drive into the forest due to steep terrain and tree density. I've seen of wire rope and chains on some of the local trucks, but I don't know the ideal lengths, thickness, how they're rigged, or how they're skidded.

To some extent I'll need a straight shot, but is it possible to drag up a hillside and up over and onto the roadbed or just downhill? My hauler is a Dodge 4x4 w/ Cummins. Oh yea, now that the log is all dirty from skid, what's the best way to get all the dirt out before bucking?

Thanks!

The rules must be different in MT. Here in WA if a ranger saw you falling trees and skidding logs in the NF she/she would come out of his/her tree. NF cutting permits are good for trees or logs in the road and or ditch. Absolutely no falling.

As for the dirty logs - ignore the received wisdom here about "full comp chisel tooth" chains. Get your self a couple round bit skip tooth chains - they are more dirt tolerant, cut very well, and you only have half the teeth to file when it does go dull. Bring a stiff bristle broom and knock the big chunks off before cutting.

Or a wire brush works better when things are freezing.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I plan to get a forest service permit this year to get my wood. It seems most people fell wood near the road, limb them, drag full lengths to the road and buck them there. This is western Montana, we're talking mountains, narrow gravel road, and fir or lodgepole pine.

It is not possible to drive into the forest due to steep terrain and tree density. I've seen of wire rope and chains on some of the local trucks, but I don't know the ideal lengths, thickness, how they're rigged, or how they're skidded.

To some extent I'll need a straight shot, but is it possible to drag up a hillside and up over and onto the roadbed or just downhill? My hauler is a Dodge 4x4 w/ Cummins. Oh yea, now that the log is all dirty from skid, what's the best way to get all the dirt out before bucking?

Thanks!

The rules must be different in MT. Here in WA if a ranger saw you falling trees and skidding logs in the NF she/she would come out of his/her tree. NF cutting permits are good for trees or logs in the road and or ditch. Absolutely no falling.

As for the dirty logs - ignore the received wisdom here about "full comp chisel tooth" chains. Get your self a couple round bit skip tooth chains - they are more dirt tolerant, cut very well, and you only have half the teeth to file when it does go dull. Bring a stiff bristle broom and knock the big chunks off before cutting.

Or a wire brush works better when things are freezing.

I don't imagine the dirt will be frozen on if it is yarded and sawed on the same day. . .

 

[TMonter]

I'll post some pictures of my setup tomorrow, however here is list what I own for skidding firewood (I do it with my truck and a frame mounted hitch).

100' 5/16 Cable W/Choker and loop at one end (New)

50' 5/16 Cable with Chain at one end and Loop at the other (New)

6-Ton Working Load Snatch Block (Skookum, used on craigslist)

1 15' Chain, 8-Ton Working Load (Found in Road while cutting)

1 10' Chain, 4 Ton Working Load (New)

1 6-Ton Strap for Looping around trees without gouging them (New)

If I had to add one more thing it would be a 200' Length of 5/16" cable for long pulls.

I regularly skid small and large logs both uphill and downhill in the woods for firewood gathering.

 

[TMonter]

The rules must be different in MT. Here in WA if a ranger saw you falling trees and skidding logs in the NF she/she would come out of his/her tree. NF cutting permits are good for trees or logs in the road and or ditch. Absolutely no falling.

Actually WA rules are the same as Idaho's for most of the state forest land, where you can skid logs for firewood and you can cut standing dead timber. It may be different closer to the coast, but on the eastern part of the state it's basically the same as here.

 

[sullystull]

I plan to get a forest service permit this year to get my wood. It seems most people fell wood near the road, limb them, drag full lengths to the road and buck them there. This is western Montana, we're talking mountains, narrow gravel road, and fir or lodgepole pine.

It is not possible to drive into the forest due to steep terrain and tree density. I've seen of wire rope and chains on some of the local trucks, but I don't know the ideal lengths, thickness, how they're rigged, or how they're skidded.

To some extent I'll need a straight shot, but is it possible to drag up a hillside and up over and onto the roadbed or just downhill? My hauler is a Dodge 4x4 w/ Cummins. Oh yea, now that the log is all dirty from skid, what's the best way to get all the dirt out before bucking?

Thanks!

The rules must be different in MT. Here in WA if a ranger saw you falling trees and skidding logs in the NF she/she would come out of his/her tree. NF cutting permits are good for trees or logs in the road and or ditch. Absolutely no falling.

As for the dirty logs - ignore the received wisdom here about "full comp chisel tooth" chains. Get your self a couple round bit skip tooth chains - they are more dirt tolerant, cut very well, and you only have half the teeth to file when it does go dull. Bring a stiff bristle broom and knock the big chunks off before cutting.

+1
Same here in WV. I have a National Forest Permit and it clearly states the trees must be "down and dead". I assume that policy would be fairly consistent across the entire US Forest Service. I could be wrong and would love to know what the permit states in other national forests.

 

[maplewood]

I don't skid myself, but a friend uses his 4 wheeler to clean up his 6 acres. He got a car hood from a junk yard and uses it as a sled (he picked one that had some decent curvature on the leading edge). He flipped it upside down (paint down), cut a hole through the leading edge and ran his choke chain through that hole. So when he drags the log(s), the sled takes most of the beating, not the log(s). He does this summer and winter.
Happy burning.

 

[Arc_Dad]

Maplewood,

That sounds like a really cheap and functional way to get the wood out.

Thanks

 

[chad3]

Have also heard about using the top half of a pool filter as a nose cone of sorts. I carry a hatchet or small axe to knock off any bark that may be dirt covered (good also for hitting the wedges).
Hood sounds like a good idea, but not sure I'd want to carry it back and forth if you aren't on your own property.
Chad

 

[madrone]

The rules must be different in MT. Here in WA if a ranger saw you falling trees and skidding logs in the NF she/she would come out of his/her tree. NF cutting permits are good for trees or logs in the road and or ditch. Absolutely no falling.

Actually WA rules are the same as Idaho's for most of the state forest land, where you can skid logs for firewood and you can cut standing dead timber. It may be different closer to the coast, but on the eastern part of the state it's basically the same as here.

Actually, it's the difference between state and national forest. National forest here in oregon has the same rules: already down by the roadside only, no felling, no skidding.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

The cutting rules for the NF here are so restrictive that of the hundreds of wood burners I know not a single one cuts in the NF.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I plan to get a forest service permit this year to get my wood. It seems most people fell wood near the road, limb them, drag full lengths to the road and buck them there. This is western Montana, we're talking mountains, narrow gravel road, and fir or lodgepole pine.

It is not possible to drive into the forest due to steep terrain and tree density. I've seen of wire rope and chains on some of the local trucks, but I don't know the ideal lengths, thickness, how they're rigged, or how they're skidded.

To some extent I'll need a straight shot, but is it possible to drag up a hillside and up over and onto the roadbed or just downhill? My hauler is a Dodge 4x4 w/ Cummins. Oh yea, now that the log is all dirty from skid, what's the best way to get all the dirt out before bucking?

Thanks!

The rules must be different in MT. Here in WA if a ranger saw you falling trees and skidding logs in the NF she/she would come out of his/her tree. NF cutting permits are good for trees or logs in the road and or ditch. Absolutely no falling.

As for the dirty logs - ignore the received wisdom here about "full comp chisel tooth" chains. Get your self a couple round bit skip tooth chains - they are more dirt tolerant, cut very well, and you only have half the teeth to file when it does go dull. Bring a stiff bristle broom and knock the big chunks off before cutting.

Or a wire brush works better when things are freezing.

I don't imagine the dirt will be frozen on if it is yarded and sawed on the same day. . .

Doesn't matter the temperature. Wire will still do a much better and easier job of it.

 

[TMonter]

Actually, it’s the difference between state and national forest. National forest here in oregon has the same rules: already down by the roadside only, no felling, no skidding.

I cut on National Forest land all the time and they allow skidding and cutting of standing dead timber here. It even clearly states it in the woodcutting brochure for the Forest Service here. I think it depends a lot on the locale.

 

[jibe]

On NE Oregon NF, you can cut up to 24 in standing dead within 300ft of the road so long as it isn't a Ponderosa Pine.

 

[madrone]

Must be related to population density?

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Start knocking down trees in the Olympic NF and I guarantee you'll come out of the woods in handcuffs with your truck and saw impounded.

 

[North of 60]

Start knocking down trees in the Olympic NF and I guarantee you'll come out of the woods in handcuffs with your truck and saw impounded.

Then you will get to deal with the ledgendary prison guard (Bigg_Redd)
You will be then forced to burn 2 month seasoned pine after having to buck it up with a Dolmar chain saw in a wimpy cat stove.
So there :cheese: THE END
N of 60