Clarification with the FP30, chimney adapters, and heat transfer kits.

[1d9n7r8]

First time poster, long time looker. I purchased the FP30 back in March. We are just getting the room finished and I'm working through all the things I'll need to finish the install. I've seen a thread where one person used just the anchor plate for their chimney pipe and ground the anchor plate down or completely off. I seen another where the person used the adapter plate for the ICC pipe and used it with their anchor plate not on ICC. I'm looking at doing the latter of the 2. For one it looked cleaner and 2 I don't understand the reasoning of removing the anchor plate from the adapter of your supposed to use it. Does anyone have some first hand experience? I plan on using Super vent if that makes a difference.

My second query concerns heat transfer. I was contemplating ducting both heat transfer spots into a single duct of 8" or 10" and using an inline blower to move the heat to 900sqft bonus room over the garage. It's over the 20' recommendation for the heat game kits~apprx 30-35. Does anyone have thoughts on this? Is it feasible? Thanks

 

[bholler]

First time poster, long time looker. I purchased the FP30 back in March. We are just getting the room finished and I'm working through all the things I'll need to finish the install. I've seen a thread where one person used just the anchor plate for their chimney pipe and ground the anchor plate down or completely off. I seen another where the person used the adapter plate for the ICC pipe and used it with their anchor plate not on ICC. I'm looking at doing the latter of the 2. For one it looked cleaner and 2 I don't understand the reasoning of removing the anchor plate from the adapter of your supposed to use it. Does anyone have some first hand experience? I plan on using Super vent if that makes a difference.
My second query concerns heat transfer. I was contemplating ducting both heat transfer spots into a single duct of 8" or 10" and using an inline blower to move the heat to 900sqft bonus room over the garage. It's over the 20' recommendation for the heat game kits~apprx 30-35. Does anyone have thoughts on this? Is it feasible? Thanks

Is super vent specified for this unit?

 

[begreen]

I don't see an anchor plate assembly in the SuperVent catalog. Selkirk does make one for their platinum line, part 206400. You will need to verify that anchor plate properly works with SuperVent chimney pipe or use their platinum line of chimney or a different brand like DuraTech or ICC. If that Selkirk plate works with SuperVent, it has to be checked for fit on the fireplace. If it does not fit flush to the fireplace, get the Anchor Plate spacer, part #FP30.7757.

 

[1d9n7r8]

Part# JSC6AP, according to Lowes. All research I've seen says it's the same for Super Vent and Super Pro.

 

[bholler]

Part# JSC6AP, according to Lowes. All research I've seen says it's the same for Super Vent and Super Pro.

You need to call Selkirk to confirm

 

[begreen]

Part# JSC6AP, according to Lowes. All research I've seen says it's the same for Super Vent and Super Pro.

Thanks. I didn't have the Super Pro book. Now I see it. Looks like I need to update my Selkirk catalogs. Crap, they have 6 residential lines now. It's hard to understand why.

 

[KC2004]

First time poster, long time looker. I purchased the FP30 back in March. We are just getting the room finished and I'm working through all the things I'll need to finish the install. I've seen a thread where one person used just the anchor plate for their chimney pipe and ground the anchor plate down or completely off. I seen another where the person used the adapter plate for the ICC pipe and used it with their anchor plate not on ICC. I'm looking at doing the latter of the 2. For one it looked cleaner and 2 I don't understand the reasoning of removing the anchor plate from the adapter of your supposed to use it. Does anyone have some first hand experience? I plan on using Super vent if that makes a difference.

My second query concerns heat transfer. I was contemplating ducting both heat transfer spots into a single duct of 8" or 10" and using an inline blower to move the heat to 900sqft bonus room over the garage. It's over the 20' recommendation for the heat game kits~apprx 30-35. Does anyone have thoughts on this? Is it feasible? Thanks

On the heat duct kit, if it were me knowing what I know now after installing a similar setup with our Z42 but with a shorter run, make sure you allow serviceable access to the duct fan. If possible I would probably position the duct fan about midway between the fireplace and the vent it will be blowing out of. This will give the air some time to cool down a bit before hitting the fan and be far enough away from the vent to reduce some noise. I installed the AC Infinity S6 duct fan and just added a silencer tube between the air vent and fan they sell that reduces fan noise which I recommend. I would use insulated duct work with that length of run. The S6 is rated up to 140 degrees and I have tested the air temp on my vent and the highest I have seen is 138 coming out so I'm getting close to the specs. The FP-30 can pump out more heat so I'm guessing it's wise to give the air a little time to cool before it hits the fan. Good luck and keep us posted on how it comes together.

Looks like they have a cyber monday sale for 15% today. Here is the silencer i was talking about. Looks like they only build these for up to 8" duct fans but they do offer 10 and 12" duct fans as well if you're looking at going bigger. I will say, our 6" duct fan moves enough air from our basement to the main floor of the house to heat it up and it's 3400 square feet. The benefit of a larger fan would be you don't have to run it at the higher speeds to move larger amounts of air compared to the 6" so I think you're on the right track with going to an 8 or 10" duct system. We ducted both sides of our fireplace and combined them into one duct. I did this to pull equal amounts of air from both sides of the unit.

8" Duct silencer

 

[mcdougy]

Your going to like the fp30, ours works better than I expected.

 

[1d9n7r8]

You need to call Selkirk to confirm

I'll do that tomorrow, probably a good place to start.

 

[1d9n7r8]

On the heat duct kit, if it were me knowing what I know now after installing a similar setup with our Z42 but with a shorter run, make sure you allow serviceable access to the duct fan. If possible I would probably position the duct fan about midway between the fireplace and the vent it will be blowing out of. This will give the air some time to cool down a bit before hitting the fan and be far enough away from the vent to reduce some noise. I installed the AC Infinity S6 duct fan and just added a silencer tube between the air vent and fan they sell that reduces fan noise which I recommend. I would use insulated duct work with that length of run. The S6 is rated up to 140 degrees and I have tested the air temp on my vent and the highest I have seen is 138 coming out so I'm getting close to the specs. The FP-30 can pump out more heat so I'm guessing it's wise to give the air a little time to cool before it hits the fan. Good luck and keep us posted on how it comes together.

Looks like they have a cyber monday sale for 15% today. Here is the silencer i was talking about. Looks like they only build these for up to 8" duct fans but they do offer 10 and 12" duct fans as well if you're looking at going bigger. I will say, our 6" duct fan moves enough air from our basement to the main floor of the house to heat it up and it's 3400 square feet. The benefit of a larger fan would be you don't have to run it at the higher speeds to move larger amounts of air compared to the 6" so I think you're on the right track with going to an 8 or 10" duct system. We ducted both sides of our fireplace and combined them into one duct. I did this to pull equal amounts of air from both sides of the unit.

8" Duct silencer

Thanks for the input. I was looking at these.

 

[1d9n7r8]

I'll do that tomorrow, probably a good place to start.

For anyone that is interested I emailed Selkirk. They responded saying anything rated UL103HT is acceptable. It seems that the adapter plate will be needed FP30.7757. I've seen that others have modified there's too work but I have time to wait. The manual doesn't say the adapter is JUST for ICC pipe it states that it is needed for ICC pipe.

 

[1d9n7r8]

For anyone that is interested I emailed Selkirk. They responded saying anything rated UL103HT is acceptable. It seems that the adapter plate will be needed FP30.7757. I've seen that others have modified there's too work but I have time to wait. The manual doesn't say the adapter is JUST for ICC pipe it states that it is needed for ICC pipe.

Edit: I emailed Pacific Energy.

 

[npotternyc]

I have an FP30 with the heat transfer kit. The ducts go about 6ft up then 25ft in either direction. I have a 6in AC infinity at the end of each with the probe taped to the outside of the duct right behind one of the fans. Overall I am happy with the setup.

- The AC Infinity’s can over heat. They shut down when they get too hot, but have started back up when it cools down (so far). I currently have them set to run between 80-120 degrees, they shut down soon after the probe hits 130 in its current position, so they shut off before they shut themselves down. This only happens with a really hot burn, which I do rarely anyway.
- I do not have the muffler, they are pretty quiet at a low setting (30% power) and still pump out plenty of warm air. It is much quieter than the built in blower on this unit.

Good luck!

 

[KC2004]

I have an FP30 with the heat transfer kit. The ducts go about 6ft up then 25ft in either direction. I have a 6in AC infinity at the end of each with the probe taped to the outside of the duct right behind one of the fans. Overall I am happy with the setup.

- The AC Infinity’s can over heat. They shut down when they get too hot, but have started back up when it cools down (so far). I currently have them set to run between 80-120 degrees, they shut down soon after the probe hits 130 in its current position, so they shut off before they shut themselves down. This only happens with a really hot burn, which I do rarely anyway.
- I do not have the muffler, they are pretty quiet at a low setting (30% power) and still pump out plenty of warm air. It is much quieter than the built in blower on this unit.

Good luck!

That’s interesting they are shutting down. Are you using the version with the electronic controller/lcd screen? I wonder if that has anything to do with it. Mine is the other version and I have had 150 degree air coming out of the vent without the fan shutting down. Their operating temp in the specs say they are good to 140 so I wasn’t comfortable leaving it on at that temp and redirected to the main blower on the fireplace. Like you, those temps only happen with a really hot fire

 

[martin hales]

Thanks for the input. I was looking at these.

Did you use B-vent I’m trying to get clarification if I can just use standard duct work?. Any pictures or videos ?

 

[begreen]

B-Vent. Follow the manual directions.