Lake Girl
Moderator
Eric, thinking it is more the poof in the firebox like a flashover that is more troubling. The smoke from the auger is a symptom of a problem.
Classic Bay 1200 smoke issue, Please help
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SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Still waiting on the OP.
If there is negative pressure in that stove room the stove needs to be at the very least OAKed or the cause of the negative pressure needs to be found and removed if possible.
If there is negative pressure in that stove room the stove needs to be at the very least OAKed or the cause of the negative pressure needs to be found and removed if possible.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
With negative pressure in the stove room the stove could under a number of conditions dump smoke and try to use the air intake as a vent (dump more smoke) and anything coming down the supposed vent as combustion air.
Air flow reversal conditions have to be just right in order to cancel the combustion blower out.
Air flow reversal conditions have to be just right in order to cancel the combustion blower out.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Might be, you can give it a shot. Does that CB1200 have the same setup as the Castile and other units in the air intake area or is it fully sealed to the burn area?
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Well I'll leave it to him and you. I know what I'd do and in order it is.
1. Same sized vent from beginning to the end entering the chimney below where it is now and turning up gets rid of about 15 EVL and the size change, it could likely be all 3".
2. Replace the auger blocks/gaskets/bushings/bearings whatever Quad calls them.
3. OAK it.
4. Check and make certain the controller is starting the stove properly, replace if not.
5. Verify the exhaust blower is coming up to speed correctly, replace if not.
6. Sit back and likely enjoy the fire.
But that is me.
I'm back, had to do some wonderful paperwork.
Exhaust blower, control board are new But you do have a point on possible negative pressure in my house. I have been working every year to improve the efficiency of my home and 2 years ago the heat dynamics of our home has went to the opposite. A few years a go it used to get to hot upstairs and to cold down stairs. After changing duct work insulation and other things it actually changed to the opposite, now it's to hot down stairs and to cold upstairs. When I first notice this I installed 2 vents into 2 ducts that go's upstairs and put a 5" Pc fan in each one to help push some of the hot air upstairs.
Now the stove is in the same 15x15 room that has these vents with fans and I have another corner door fan that blows to another room But I still have 3 rooms connected to this 1 room and the doors are always open and the window aren't that new and are kinda drafty.
It dose make sense and could be a possibility.
Exhaust blower, control board are new But you do have a point on possible negative pressure in my house. I have been working every year to improve the efficiency of my home and 2 years ago the heat dynamics of our home has went to the opposite. A few years a go it used to get to hot upstairs and to cold down stairs. After changing duct work insulation and other things it actually changed to the opposite, now it's to hot down stairs and to cold upstairs. When I first notice this I installed 2 vents into 2 ducts that go's upstairs and put a 5" Pc fan in each one to help push some of the hot air upstairs.
Now the stove is in the same 15x15 room that has these vents with fans and I have another corner door fan that blows to another room But I still have 3 rooms connected to this 1 room and the doors are always open and the window aren't that new and are kinda drafty.
It dose make sense and could be a possibility.
I also have 1- 10" air intake for the forced hot air furnace near the pellet stove but since I have been running the pellet stove my gas furnace has not been kicking on. I would assume that air from this pipe should compensate for the air that I am trying to push upstairs and the other room.
Either way, I won't have much of a choice but to try the cheap way by getting new auger gasket and nylon bearing and hope for the best that it could stop or minimize any smoke coming out from there.
It's cold season and my 6 year old son has a cold, I have noticed he has been coughing more after the stove lights up and little smoke comes out from the stove so be the reason why I have been trying to figure this out.
Either way, I won't have much of a choice but to try the cheap way by getting new auger gasket and nylon bearing and hope for the best that it could stop or minimize any smoke coming out from there.
It's cold season and my 6 year old son has a cold, I have noticed he has been coughing more after the stove lights up and little smoke comes out from the stove so be the reason why I have been trying to figure this out.
Lots of things to figure out. One at a time. As far as negative pressure, as suggested, you can try opening a window before stove fires up and see. Some stores have the equipment to test for negative pressure in a home. Don't know what it would cost you, but window test is pretty cheap. kap
Lake Girl
Moderator
Speaking of the little guy and his cough... hope you have a couple of CO monitors.
Yes both smoke detector and co2 is near the stove, kinda surprised the smoke alarm hasn't been going off since its only 10 feet away.
I will certainly try your advise to test it with a window open and Smokey's list. If the gaskets don't work I will try to change my lower pipe to the same 4" as my liner.
I wouldn't know how to check the rpm on my exhaust motor but I am assuming that this new motor is working good, same go's as my control board.
By the way, what is OAK it mean?
I will certainly try your advise to test it with a window open and Smokey's list. If the gaskets don't work I will try to change my lower pipe to the same 4" as my liner.
I wouldn't know how to check the rpm on my exhaust motor but I am assuming that this new motor is working good, same go's as my control board.
By the way, what is OAK it mean?
I really appreciate and thank all of you for opinion and advice!
I do have a tough situation to solve this and I'm faced with a tougher situation with my Filipino wife, I'm faced with dam if I do and dam if I don't. She want's the warmth but doesn't want me to spend to much since I recently spent around $350 for the exhaust blower and control board this year.
I do have a tough situation to solve this and I'm faced with a tougher situation with my Filipino wife, I'm faced with dam if I do and dam if I don't. She want's the warmth but doesn't want me to spend to much since I recently spent around $350 for the exhaust blower and control board this year.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
OAK is an outside air kit, it connects to the air intake on the stove and ends outside the house.
You get your combustion air through it from outdoors.
They compensate for negative pressure in the stove room and oxygen depleted air from being used for combustion.
Basically It is a length of metal tubing (usually flexible aluminum), a face plate with wind deflector, and a pipe clamp. Sometimes there are stove specific mounts that have to be provided as well. There are length considerations as it technically is part of the vent system.
You get your combustion air through it from outdoors.
They compensate for negative pressure in the stove room and oxygen depleted air from being used for combustion.
Basically It is a length of metal tubing (usually flexible aluminum), a face plate with wind deflector, and a pipe clamp. Sometimes there are stove specific mounts that have to be provided as well. There are length considerations as it technically is part of the vent system.
Yep understand! I had those on my last 2 pellet stoves, Whitfield and James town. On my Whitfield was useless because it wasn't sealed at all, my James town was sealed but nothing but problems from the beginning.
I don't know if it will work with this Quad-fire because the actual air intake the stove is underneath the stove stand and they make a hole for the air intake pipe so air go's underneath the stove. Not so sealed since my hole is now covered with tape and my stove still gets plenty of air.
If you look at this pic you can see the carpet floor though the intake hole and no this is not my stove, just a Google images.
I don't know if it will work with this Quad-fire because the actual air intake the stove is underneath the stove stand and they make a hole for the air intake pipe so air go's underneath the stove. Not so sealed since my hole is now covered with tape and my stove still gets plenty of air.
If you look at this pic you can see the carpet floor though the intake hole and no this is not my stove, just a Google images.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Having an OAK should not have caused any issues for those other stoves and really won't for this one.
What causes issues is an improperly installed one.
That stove looks like it has holes to attach a coupling system to.
I will try to get the skinny for attaching an OAK to a CB1200 from a former CB1200 burner who like me refuses to burn without one if you want to pursue that option. He isn't a member here.
What causes issues is an improperly installed one.
That stove looks like it has holes to attach a coupling system to.
I will try to get the skinny for attaching an OAK to a CB1200 from a former CB1200 burner who like me refuses to burn without one if you want to pursue that option. He isn't a member here.
Thank you but I think I may have to pass on that. My stove is about 8 feet from the outside wall with a closet doorway between both. I believe the only other way to run an OAK is to drill a large hole though my floor to take air from my drafty basement ( old granite stone foundation) But I am very hesitant to do that though antique barn wood floors.
Now that I gave it some thought, installing an OAK is possible for me but the run would be long and tough undertaking to drill 2 - 3" holes though 2 walls.
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