Cleaning tools OWB

[ecrane99]

Hi all,

I have purchased a CB e-classic 2300. Have been using it for a few weeks and noticed creosote buildup.
I suspect the buildup is due to operating in not so cold weather.

I am shutting it down for a cleaning since we have even warmer temps expected next week.

What are the best tools to scrape creosote from the OWB steel walls?
shovel? scraper? Brush? chemicals?


Thanks for your advice. Ed

 

[logjammed]

I also have been burning for hot water and have also had creosote build-up. I have scaped the sides with just a piece of sheet metal while the stove is still warm and it comes right off. Have been burning dry pine mostly . What is the big concern with the creosote other than fire risk? Does it cause rust? I will probably do the initial cleaning after one month of operation and check behind fire brick as manual says and scrape the box really good, but where i already scraped firebox looks great. I will probably make up some custom scrapers so i don't have to dive into the unit. Just curious what your burning and what you think as far as wood use / estimate for winter ?

 

[ecrane99]

I have been burning small fires each night so as not to cause alot of idleing (3 seasoned oak logs 6" x 20"). I won't have a good estimate until the cold temps arrive. I'm in the process of building lean tos around the property to keep the wood dry. I have some piles under tarp, but find the lean to much better. My cresote doesn't come off unless the stove is over 150 degrees. Above 150, I can scrape the goo with a shovel. Also my bypass is sticky and is hard to open. I have heard of another eclassic owner with the same issue. I think when the cold temps arrive, the stove will perform better and some of that creosote will burn off.

 

[warm in VT]

I called CB about this on mine the other day. I have been running it for the lst week steady. I have a hard time opening the bypass damper because it sticks so badly. I was afraid I am going to break it as well as the gooey build up of creosote. They advised it is because it is not cold enough yet and the unit is not hot enough to burn it off. I asked about the fact that most of all the heat goes down into the refractory to burn hot there and the firebox does not heat up as much as the old ones. She did not have an e classic and was going by her experience with the older models..... I hope she is right but we have been in the 20's here at night and 50 during the day... I have to think it was burning fairly hot then as it was heating the house and hot water? I will be curious to see, I hope she was right!

 

[flyingcow]

I was told by the E-Classic dealer in my area that you need to have seasoned wood, without it might effect the warranty. Just a thought

 

[warm in VT]

Wood is not an issue with mine, very well dried and all hardwood. So we can delete that from the equation....?

 

[logjammed]

I'm a little confused will the creosote cause rust? seems to me its acting like an undercoat or sealer. and what exactly is the ashtrol supposed to do? is anyone using the ashtrol ? also downdraft design seems to allow for this creosote buildup correct? CB wants you to check for signs of corrosion behind fire brick and i have not done this yet , but i imagine when i do there will be little creosote there.

 

[sdrobertson]

I'm a little confused will the creosote cause rust? seems to me its acting like an undercoat or sealer. and what exactly is the ashtrol supposed to do? is anyone using the ashtrol ? also downdraft design seems to allow for this creosote buildup correct? CB wants you to check for signs of corrosion behind fire brick and i have not done this yet , but i imagine when i do there will be little creosote there.

As I understand it - creosote in itself will not rust - the problem is when you add just a tiny bit of moisture (cold water in jacket - under 140 degrees) between the creosote and the steel, the creosote will make a acid that will start to eat the steel. It still seems wierd that you can have a fire and still get moisture in the fire chamber but it does happen.

 

[Duetech]

Also my bypass is sticky and is hard to open. I have heard of another eclassic owner with the same issue. I think when the cold temps arrive, the stove will perform better and some of that creosote will burn off.

 

[kenkressin]

My brand-new eClassic bypass has been somewhat difficult to open. I think this is partially due to the mechanical design - it appears to me that the lever does not provide much torque in the full-closed position. Mine often bangs open. The only solution I have is to get a good strong grip and open slowly... Something CB should redesign in my opinion.

 

[labman]

Hi,

Also had a bypass door sticking problem on a new E-2300. Called the local dealer who was at a loss as he had just begun selling this unit and was unfamiliar with the mechanics involved in moving the bypass door, although, he did get me in tough with someone at the factory who at least explained the rod routing.

As it was new, creosote buildup wasn't a problem and I could feel it hanging on something. Everything looked fine through the turbulator access door, so I ended up pulling the right side panel toward the rear to view the pivot arm that connects the handle rod that runs along the side to the rear horizontal rod that runs across the back of the unit. Incidentally, the rear right side panel is not a manufactured access point, so I had to remove several sheet metal screws along the roof, sides and bottom.

Once I had the panel removed, the problem was obvious. Two bolts that connect the right horizontal rod to the rear horizontal bar at the cam lever were scraping the corrugated sheet metal. If the sheet metal was smooth, the clearance wouldn't be a problem, but one of the bolts was clearly catching an edge of a corrugated bend. It's a small design flaw, but in order to solve the problem, I used a 4" angle grinder to take a small amount off the bolt heads and also slightly rounded the edge of the most offending bolt. The bolts are still completely functional and there's plenty of head left to remove them if needed, but after reinstalling the side panel, the sticking problem is gone.

On a side note, we're in the middle of a cold snap here in Southcentral Alaska (-20 to -30) and the house hasn't moved from a balmy 73 degrees. The E2300 is easily heating our 3200 sq. ft. house, garage and water.

 

[Devall]

Hi, I have the e-2300 also, this will be my second season with it. So far Im not really happy with it. When it worked properly it was great, but every once in a while it seem like it wasn't getting enough air, and would smoke a lot and not burn properly (It would burn better when I opened the bypass. Now again this year I did a trial run with it put some really good dry wood in and did a full clean and service prior to using it and the same dam thing. I ready to shove it up CB's ass ( they tell me that my wood is to wet) which is definitly not the case. So I was wondering if any body else has had simmilar issues and resolved them or for any sugestions? Thanks

 

[kenkressin]

Some things to try? 1) Keep firebox full, but let it burn down every few days so you can push ash down the hole and keep the in take air holes open, 2) observe the flame by opening the clean out door while running, 3) raise the set point when loading new wood so the initial burn is longer (of course, you eventually have to slowly lower it back), 4) let it get roaring with the door and damper open (warms things up and cleans chimney?), 5) Split some smaller sticks until the colder weather arrives? 6) Have a tool to pry the pile to ensure the wood settles ... They came and tested the pressure on mine which made me think they might be having some issues with air pressure. You could verify the seal on the back air box is good and that the fan intake is clear. Could also verify the solenoid is raising the plunger when demanding full heat. I agree though, seems finicky often. I hope yours will run better when colder temps arrive. Also, the burn chamber has a metal insert which cracks (even after one year) - if serious cracks I suppose this could affect burn.

 

[kenkressin]

OK, I have been running for two weeks and mine eClassic 2300 has been running like crap too. Do you still have your bricks in? They took my bricks out at the end of last season, I think this might be related. I had no problems last year. It has been very smokey this year. First time creosote in the back end - ever. I think the fire is not getting hot enough to keep burning. Here are some experiments I did. 1) Remove the ash door, 2) open fire box door until flame is hot, 3) close fire box door, 4) verify hot flame roars in ash box. If no flame at all, then hole plugged. If flame is hot for a few seconds and then slowly goes out, then trouble - this is what mine was doing. Mine was a smoldering mess. I put about 75% of my bricks back in the side walls. I left a 1/2 inch gap on the bottom rows so they could be taken out easily, and just laid 3 horizontally on the top of them. After 30 minutes of warming them, the fire burned clean. You should also see the fire rising in the tubes by peeking in the back door and down the tubes (works at night).

With the bricks out, the side walls are 180 degrees which I am thinking is sucking the heat out of the wood, making re-ignition difficult. Brick acts like a heat source and insulator at the same time. This problem might depend on wood type. This is my theory at the time.

 

[Devall]

Well finally my e-classic is working like it should, after complaining enough to my dealer guy, they sent me a new upgrade for the unit. Consisting of another (4' section of chimney to help draw more air, and a new squirl cage for the fan that has a different pitch on it that helps suck more air). WOW what a difference, it works just like it should ,even mixing a bit of slighty wet wood in there it has no problem burning through it. It works great now