Ongoing Issues After BK Stove Service - Seeking advice

[stoveliker]

Yes the only air into the box comes from the lip above the window. The air wash.

The ice is normal. I have the same. Sometimes if falls off when I burn high for a bit.

 

[Murray01]

Ice buildup is common at our end also. I can get 18”-24” icicles on very cold days, running on high for 30 minutes or so knocks them back.

 

[stoveliker]

I had an ugly mess yesterday from all the snow blowing against it the night before...
Some still hanging there (it's warm so I'm running low).

 

[kingbobiv]

Figured for good measure I'd update with the final leg of this stove servicing saga. If anyone has any advice we have a few open questions left and a lot of confusion/frustration. This was all as of ~mid-March a little after their last visit to fix some of their mistakes in the new liner setup, I had started a draft but never posted.

---

Only issue left was the gaping gap in the gasket, so I asked them to order the official BK 'fat' one ('cause I did see what @Highbeam and @stoveliker said where other ones are just kinda super slim and flat 💯) . Waited for a couple weeks, they said it's still on the way.

Gasket issue wasn't new, so we decided to burn for a few days even with it cause it got very cold, but noticed few new odd things happening after their last service/updates

• firebox/glass gets completely coated in thick creosote even after burning on full high for several loads (using same wood as before their updates that had no issue so don't think it's the wood). It always got a little dirty on med/low but this was a full coating on high which was odd. Flue does seem clean though.
• there's now an air whistling noise that sounds like it's from just behind the thermometer above the unit, my best guess is right where the liner connects to the unit
• burn seems to not respond to thermostat until it's below ~50% then starts to die down (otherwise burn just stays at top of active range full tilt)

They came to check if they introduced any of the new behavior, but they still didn't bring the gasket. Said it's on the way still and that they would come back when gasket arrives to install it and light a fire with me so they they could listen to the whistle and see what's up. Technician was very nice and determined/curious to figure out the sound and why the firebox was so black inside after burning only a few days after a full cleaning.

But then get a call from owner few days later to say he's adamant that gasket is not a problem

• He says he only just now looked at pics and our chimney is too short, wants $6500 to extend 3ft. Even though it's been working great for 10+ years aside from the original issue I brought to them which was one area of buildup on glass.
• We had already JUST paid them almost $3K to upgrade the liner because they said that was the issue. Somehow they did that whole thing without measuring how long the liner was? We said they should have realized that as they JUST redid the whole thing, he said he'd take $500 off. That would be $6 just to check and see if it fixes issues we didn't even have before their first $3k 'fix' when they said a corrugated liner was a huge problem and had to be smooth, which even this forum said was nice-to-have not a requirement. All we wanted was the gasket replaced to see if fixing the torn spot would help glass be less dirty.
• He sent me a link to "proof" it's the chimney, it was a chatgpt convo where he just asked "what is minimum height chimney for wood stove?"
• Most frustratingly, he refuses to sell me the gasket, says we don't need it.

Our chimney is probably 12-13ft roughly, so he's right it's a little shorter than ideal, but has always worked just fine. And you would think he'd want to rule out the cheapest fix first, but now I don't know how do i just get the gasket to rule that out myself? It's got a huge tear in it, and now we've also got this whistle noise... is a slight whistle common when running on high (maybe the new smooth-walled insulated liner causes a stronger draft so makes a whistle)?

Only other licensed BK dealer i see come up that isn't hours away is in Patchogue, but I tried them first a couple years ago and was told if they didn't install it they won't service it. Gonna try them again next and hope they flex on it to help us out. Anyone know if just any fireplace/chimney company would help me figure this out?

Thanks for any advice, we're at a loss on how much of a runaround we got from this place. The technician was very nice but after a dozen visits this $6k chimney curveball was kinda the line for us.

All this was just because we had a little bit of odd burn direction (confirmed on this thread is normal) and dirtier glass on one side than we expected (confirmed on this thread is normal, and likely due to the huge tear in the gasket). In trying to fix those little non-crucial things during a simple service visit we were thrown thousands in 'must have' repairs. We just feel kinda defeated and duped over the whole thing.

 

[Duds13]

For that kind of money, pay to fly begreen or bholler out to your place and have it done correctly!

 

[stoveliker]

THe window being black even burning high, and the stove not responding to the thermostat suggests to me that the gasket is now leaking quite a bit.

But the burn "at top of active range" regardless of the thermostat, is not an issue. You should not be looking at the cat gauge (thermometer) to assess whether the air is properly controlled. It just doesn't work that way.
(One can decrease the air and get the cat gauge go higher in the active range.)

STove pipe is never completely air tight, but a whistle means there's too much gap/air being sucked in imo.
Did they put screws in new holes? (i.e. used self drilling screws but did not put them in the old holes)

That flue is short. But one can easily test if a taller flue would solve all problems (I think not), but adding a piece of single wall stove pipe to it. That's not a permanent solution, but does increase the draft (even if a bit less than as a proper (insulated) chimney will). And it's cheap, so you can test before you spend.

 

[kingbobiv]

Man, great points! Thanks for the info

But the burn "at top of active range" regardless of the thermostat, is not an issue. You should not be looking at the cat gauge (thermometer) to assess whether the air is properly controlled. It just doesn't work that way.
(One can decrease the air and get the cat gauge go higher in the active range.)

I know exactly what you mean on the thermometer vs thermostat, i love seeing temp up high even when set low (cheap heat! 😅). But I guess what I meant was that typically a full raging burn at top of temp range would kind of chill out when i lowered t-stat a bit, or go "out" until temp got low enough to let some air back in and kick flames back on. It was a noticeable difference now that lowering stat has no effect on flames until such a low setting. Still working the same i guess but just not until i go much lower than before. The 'dancing' gas burn at the top of the firebox near the cat when the air is cut on a super hot burn is gone 🤷‍♂️ Not sure if a true problem, maybe even related to the new fresh cat, just something we noticed 👍

STove pipe is never completely air tight, but a whistle means there's too much gap/air being sucked in imo.
Did they put screws in new holes? (i.e. used self drilling screws but did not put them in the old holes)

This is exactly what our guess was! It sounds a lot like that, either a little gap around the flue connection or maybe like you said an open screw hole. The technician kinda stopped and fiddled with a piece that looked like a collar a bit himself when i mentioned it, it didn't seem to be doing anything and was kinda just sitting on the connection, but didn't seem to flag anything about it so i assumed fine. i'll check this myself or if i can get another tech to look i'll point that out the them, thanks!

Any idea if I see open screw holes what is the best/safest bet to seal them?

That flue is short. But one can easily test if a taller flue would solve all problems (I think not), but adding a piece of single wall stove pipe to it. That's not a permanent solution, but does increase the draft (even if a bit less than as a proper (insulated) chimney will). And it's cheap, so you can test before you spend.

This is a great tip thanks! Love cheap tests! Speaking of which... any idea how the heck can i get my hands on an official BK gasket to test if that just fixes things up? These guys refuse to sell me one. If other place is open to it i was hoping to bring the door as someone mentioned and have them replace properly but if not i'm not sure where/how to order one if BK doesn't sell direct.

 

[stoveliker]

Man, great points! Thanks for the info

I know exactly what you mean on the thermometer vs thermostat, i love seeing temp up high even when set low (cheap heat! 😅). But I guess what I meant was that typically a full raging burn at top of temp range would kind of chill out when i lowered t-stat a bit, or go "out" until temp got low enough to let some air back in and kick flames back on. It was a noticeable difference now that lowering stat has no effect on flames until such a low setting. Still working the same i guess but just not until i go much lower than before. The 'dancing' gas burn at the top of the firebox near the cat when the air is cut on a super hot burn is gone 🤷‍♂️ Not sure if a true problem, maybe even related to the new fresh cat, just something we noticed 👍

Fair enough. If you close the thermostat far enough, the flames should die down. And I do see changes in flame behavior if I change by "more than 1 hr on the dial". Now this does depend on the current state of the thermostat; if you're closing it, and it was almost closed already (b/c it was hot for its setting), then closing it by a tiny bit on the dial may close the air flapper (minus the hole in it) completely. On the other hand, if the flapper is very wide open, then closing it by 1 hr may not do much to the flames (air flow).
So one should not expect the stove to behave the same way each time w.r.t. flame appearance.
But, if previously you could always kill the flames by closing it halfway, and now that never happens, that's indicating there's more air coming in than before. (And given the gasket story - "tear" -, and the window blackness, I suggest it's most likely that's at least contributing to this.)

This is exactly what our guess was! It sounds a lot like that, either a little gap around the flue connection or maybe like you said an open screw hole. The technician kinda stopped and fiddled with a piece that looked like a collar a bit himself when i mentioned it, it didn't seem to be doing anything and was kinda just sitting on the connection, but didn't seem to flag anything about it so i assumed fine. i'll check this myself or if i can get another tech to look i'll point that out the them, thanks!

They could also have bent the pipe out of circular shape, leading to a slit opening.

Any idea if I see open screw holes what is the best/safest bet to seal them?

A screw (bolt would be better). (seriously).

This is a great tip thanks! Love cheap tests! Speaking of which... any idea how the heck can i get my hands on an official BK gasket to test if that just fixes things up? These guys refuse to sell me one. If other place is open to it i was hoping to bring the door as someone mentioned and have them replace properly but if not i'm not sure where/how to order one if BK doesn't sell direct.

I don't know how to get a guaranteed good sized gasket other than thru a dealer.
@BKVP ?

 

[kingbobiv]

A screw (bolt would be better). (seriously).

😅🤦‍♂️👍

 

[DuaeGuttae]

BKVP has confirmed that Hechler's is a legitimate Blaze King dealer, and they sell gaskets online, I believe. I've not used them personally, but others on the forum have.

Blaze King Stove Parts - Hechler’s Mainstreet Hearth & Home | Troy, Missouri

Original OEM Factory Replacement Blaze King Parts

hechlers.com

BKVP also mentioned a while back that he was having some surgery and wouldn't be monitoring threads here so closely. He did leave an email address where he could be reached if his attention needed to be called to a thread. I'll try to dig that up and add it here if the OP wants to reach out to him.

Edited to add: cneufeld@blazeking.com

 

[stoveliker]

Yes! I had forgotten that. Thanks you DG!

 

[BKVP]

Surgery easy, rehab not so much. Thank the Lord we only have two knees! Back in the saddle. Also, I've elected to block (didn't know I could) posts that continual share negative vibes.

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BKVP

 

[Highbeam]

Surgery easy, rehab not so much. Thank the Lord we only have two knees! Back in the saddle. Also, I've elected to block (didn't know I could) posts that continual share negative vibes.

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BKVP

Hope you can still push the clutch pedal on that old ford.

 

[Tron]

posts that continual share negative vibes

Who would do such a thing??

 

[kingbobiv]

Sorry folks! I didn't mean to push anything negative, just seeking advice on what to do in this situation. You guys have been super helpful and we learned a lot.

I just added all the rest for context 'cause we weren't sure if we should believe the dealer or not, and in the end we still don't know how to get a replacement gasket and ensure it's the proper BK one 😅 . BK says we must go through the dealer and dealer says we must pay $6k for a new chimney first. Happy to replace it ourselves but not sure where/how to purchase the correct one, and it's been a whirlwind of stress and cost going through the dealer.

Apologies if it seemed like the negative vibes were our main point in reaching out here! 😬 I'd beg you not to block posts like this 'cause without you guys we would have believed the BK dealer and had our intake understood backwards, our cleanout opened to the cold air for no reason, and our shroud completely removed. 😅 🫨 So thank you again sincerely a ton. Please continue to help folks with issues!

 

[Tron]

BK says we must go through the dealer and dealer says we must pay $6k for a new chimney first. Happy to replace it ourselves but not sure where/how to purchase the correct one

What's keeping you from buying one from Hechler's?
I suppose for a door gasket the only information you need is the diameter...and that's something you can even measure yourself.

 

[kingbobiv]

What's keeping you from buying one from Hechler's?
I suppose for a door gasket the only information you need is the diameter...and that's something you can even measure yourself.

Yep I know the size/partNo (155.0186 Gasket 7/8” round black-6ft), but was advised not to get it from any online stores and to only get directly from BK Dealer so it comes direct from BK.

Is Hechler's a reliable way to get an official BK gasket? If so then I'll definitely just order one from them!

 

[DuaeGuttae]

Yes, according to BKVP in a thread earlier on this subject, Hechler's is an official BK dealer, so anything you order from them with the right part number should be the proper part. I haven't done this personally, but I think that @RustyShackleford and @Ashful may have some direct experience. I'm operating on my memory of reading other threads.

What you don't want to do is order some generic gasket from Amazon or even a stove shop that seems to be the same size, because it might not be the same construction/density, and that's when you run into trouble. A leaky or improperly sized door gasket can lead to cold air damage to the catalytic combuster, I believe, and it's just not a good way to run a stove.

I find it shocking that the dealer won't sell you a gasket. That seems to be a major problem, and I'm glad you're reaching out for help here. It's a great site.

 

[Tron]

I find it shocking that the dealer won't sell you a gasket.

Me, too. A gasket is a consumable part, and so one of the first things I'd try when troubleshooting.

 

[BKVP]

Sorry folks! I didn't mean to push anything negative, just seeking advice on what to do in this situation. You guys have been super helpful and we learned a lot.

I just added all the rest for context 'cause we weren't sure if we should believe the dealer or not, and in the end we still don't know how to get a replacement gasket and ensure it's the proper BK one 😅 . BK says we must go through the dealer and dealer says we must pay $6k for a new chimney first. Happy to replace it ourselves but not sure where/how to purchase the correct one, and it's been a whirlwind of stress and cost going through the dealer.

Apologies if it seemed like the negative vibes were our main point in reaching out here! 😬 I'd beg you not to block posts like this 'cause without you guys we would have believed the BK dealer and had our intake understood backwards, our cleanout opened to the cold air for no reason, and our shroud completely removed. 😅 🫨 So thank you again sincerely a ton. Please continue to help folks with issues!

That was NOT directed at YOU!

BKVP

 

[brenndatomu]

Sounds to me like one of y'all with a BK dealer close by needs to order/ship this man a gasket, if the local dealer refuses to get him one...which sounds pretty shady to me!
Or maybe call a different dealer and see if they'll ship you one...does BK drop ship?
Edit: If that Hechlers sells online, then problem solved

 

[spudman99]

Haven't been online for a few weeks, sorry for the delayed reply.

One thing you might look at for the whistling issue is the thermostat flapper plate. On the right side behind the perforated fins are the thermostat and chain which controls the air intake. In my PI29 there was quite a bit of slack in the chain, such that when I would turn the thermostat to medium (or roughly 4pm) the air intake essentially was closed. If I turned it to full open, the intake was mabye 50% open. If I didn't look at this configuration, I might have been confounded by the operation of the stove. Below is a prior thread and some picks of my issue earlier this year.

Thread 'Air damper chain adjustment?'

Dec 13, 2025

Maybe I am tinkering too much with my PI29 insert but riddle me this wise forum.

In cleaning the stove in preparation for this year, I took off both side panels and blew out any dust. I removed the bi-metalic thermostat box and dry lubricated the moving surfaces. Put it back and now have this question.

When I had the stove on low (6pm on my unit) the baffle is closed. It actually fully closed when the knob was at 3:30. So I adjusted the knob and was able to get the fully closed baffle at the 6pm setting. Then I would turn it to high and the baffle did not fully open. I noticed a...

• spudman99
• Replies: 1
• Forum: Blaze King

Just a suggestion and hang in there. You seem like a really patient and invested burner and I appreciate that

 

[RustyShackleford]

Yes, I got a door gasket from Hechler's and it appears to be the right stuff.