Blaze King Princess (PE30) Flue Cleaning Process

[Pete16]

Hey guys. Just had some questions on what your cleaning process is for the Blaze King stoves flues.

Bit of background...we just installed our BK(PE32) last year. We live in a cold Canadian climate, but I work away for two weeks at a time, and then am home for one week. My wife during my two weeks off maybe will burn an evening fire 7 times max in those two weeks. The burn session probably lasts 8 hours at most. When I'm home for my week off, I'll burn everyday for the 7 days, but similar to her, we only really use it in the evening and let it go for 8 hours or so. Its rarely filled even halfway, probably closer to a quarter. I'd love to go longer and more often, but she's worried if we leave something will happen and also she doesn't like the house getting to hot. Part of the reason we got it is because we are new acreage owners, and being out in the country we experience power outages more often then when we lived in town and thought it would be a great way to 1)Supplement heat when we wanted to 2)Use as a primary heat source if the power was out for long periods....anyway I digress.

Finally, my question, I'm starting to get excited for the upcoming burn season to use our Blaze King again, but I wanted to get the flue cleaned out. I haven't inspected it all that much yet, but thanks to you guys and all of the great info in here, I believe I've done a good job of burning fairly cleanly. Regardless, I'm going to do a flue clean myself and buy a brush kit to be used with a drill. So, what are the steps to cleaning out the flue for these Blaze Kings? My plan was to open up the bypass, keep the firebox door shut, then go up to my roof, remove the cap, and clean from the top down. Access isn't an issue to do this and I think I'd prefer this method to potentially keep my house a bit cleaner. After I clean the flue, I'd have to go back inside the firebox and vacuum out any creosote/dust that dropped, correct? It should all land in the firebox? Any tips/tricks or flaws in the method I mentioned, I'd all ears to hear. Thanks.

 

[stoveliker]

That's one way. But I would afterwards take the pipe off the stove and vacuum above the baffle, otherwise the bypass may not close well. Also vacuum first from the back of your cat and the the front.

 

[Pete16]

That's one way. But I would afterwards take the pipe off the stove and vacuum above the baffle, otherwise the bypass may not close well. Also vacuum first from the back of your cat and the the front.

Great tip. Honestly, I wanted to avoid taking the pipe off the stove to try to avoid scratching it if I moved it up an off from the screws etc.
But yeah, makes sense to vacuum it all out from the top of the stove down so nothing gets left behind and then stuck. Thankyou.

 

[Murray01]

Sweeping the chimney will leave a pile of debris on the shelf at the CAT level. I can’t see any way of cleaning the shelf off without removing or sliding double walled pipe up about 4”-6” above the stove collar. Once the stovepipe is off or lifted enough, the bypass door gasket can be inspected and the locking mechanism can be lubed and the shelf vacuumed clean.

I’m a top down sweeper but I would think a bottom up sweeping would leave the same mess on the shelf.

 

[stoveliker]

I’m a top down sweeper but I would think a bottom up sweeping would leave the same mess on the shelf.

Yep. Gravity is still pointing down.

 

[Pete16]

Sweeping the chimney will leave a pile of debris on the shelf at the CAT level. I can’t see any way of cleaning the shelf off without removing or sliding double walled pipe up about 4”-6” above the stove collar. Once the stovepipe is off or lifted enough, the bypass door gasket can be inspected and the locking mechanism can be lubed and the shelf vacuumed clean.

I’m a top down sweeper but I would think a bottom up sweeping would leave the same mess on the shelf.

Gotcha, yeah makes sense. Appreciate it. As a side note, what lube do you use for the locking mechanism. I might as well do that if I'm in there anyway.

 

[stoveliker]

I use just graphite powder.

 

[Tron]

Honestly, I wanted to avoid taking the pipe off the stove to try to avoid scratching it if I moved it up an off from the screws etc.

Yes, that's certainly an issue, my pipe is a bit scratched from that, too. The problem is, the screws pull the outer shell of the pipe inward when screwed in, and those are some sharp points, so I don't think there's a way around it, really. But it's necessary, after a sweep quite a bit of creosote will be behind the cat and around the bypass.

Regarding your way of running the stove, those BK's really run best when run continuously, and with the thermostat that can be done really low-n-slow. You just have to find out once how low your stove can go without the cat stalling. I run my stove when outside daytime temperatures are below 60F/15C or so. That low the glass will get black, but the stove will run just fine. And you don't have the cold starts, which always take some time to get going. With a hot reload, you just open the bypass with the thermostat on max, wait a few minutes, reload, wait another few minutes for the load to catch, close the bypass and dial down the thermostat and you won't have to touch the stove again for the duration of the burn.

 

[Dieselhead]

I filed/ground the screw penetrations on my double wall so when I slide it up for annual cleaning it does not leave a scratch.

 

[Murray01]

Gotcha, yeah makes sense. Appreciate it. As a side note, what lube do you use for the locking mechanism. I might as well do that if I'm in there anyway.

“Apply high temp anti-seize lubricant to the under side of the bypass hook”

Quoted from the Owners Manual, not very specific. I used a copper based high temp anti-seize because that’s what I had on hand. This past winter was my first year with the new stove so I don’t know how long it will last. Not too worried since I did 2 midseason sweeps last winter so I can always relube as needed.

 

[Murray01]

I filed/ground the screw penetrations on my double wall so when I slide it up for annual cleaning it does not leave a scratch.

My telescopic section is so stiff I don’t think I really need the 3 screws holding it from slipping. When I had my stove inspected the inspector agreed with me that the screws are not necessary since the stovepipe can’t slip since it’s anchored above and below the slip joint but since the 3 screws are required in the installation manual they have to be installed to pass inspection.

 

[Pete16]

Appreciate all the tips fellas. When I inevitably scratch my pipe from the screws, is there a spray paint brand/type you guys recommend to do a quick cover up? Obviously I'll grab something rated for high temps. Thanks.

 

[Murray01]

https://www.homehardware.ca/en/high-heat-bbq-spray-paint-flat-black-340-g/p/1820454?attributionToken=oAHwnwoMCI7TndMGEOnktMkDEAEaJDZiNmQ4YjkyLTAwMDAtMjYyNS1hMzBkLTM0YzdlOTFkNzg2MyokYzFkY2FmOTgtOWQ2My00MGY3LWJlY2ItODFlODM2MjU0NzFjMiiY1rctwvCeFdSynRWOvp0Vm9a3LZD3sjCo5aot7M-dOIffqTiblaQxOg5kZWZhdWx0X3NlYXJjaEgBWAFoAXoCYmk

I’ve had excellent results with the above linked product. Been using it for years and it’s $10/can cheaper than their other products. I do wipe the area’s to be painted with wood alcohol first, I believe acetone can also be used to remove oils.

 

[Highbeam]

You might be surprised, my double wall slip joint gets slipped every year for cleaning and doesn't leave scratches at all. One thing that might help is I don't tighten the heck out of the screws but just snug them. As you said, they aren't really doing anything for an all vertical installation.

In a pinch, it is quite easy to vacuum all of the debris out from the firebox. You'll need to have a smaller shopvac hose and be a little felixible. You can actually slide the bypass plate up a bit and access everything you need. Not as easy as coming in from above and harder to verify your work. The best way is to lift the pipe off the stove.

 

[Pete16]

https://www.homehardware.ca/en/high-heat-bbq-spray-paint-flat-black-340-g/p/1820454?attributionToken=oAHwnwoMCI7TndMGEOnktMkDEAEaJDZiNmQ4YjkyLTAwMDAtMjYyNS1hMzBkLTM0YzdlOTFkNzg2MyokYzFkY2FmOTgtOWQ2My00MGY3LWJlY2ItODFlODM2MjU0NzFjMiiY1rctwvCeFdSynRWOvp0Vm9a3LZD3sjCo5aot7M-dOIffqTiblaQxOg5kZWZhdWx0X3NlYXJjaEgBWAFoAXoCYmk

I’ve had excellent results with the above linked product. Been using it for years and it’s $10/can cheaper than their other products. I do wipe the area’s to be painted with wood alcohol first, I believe acetone can also be used to remove oils.

Appreciate this. I'll grab a can!

 

[BKVP]

You can also pull the cat out. Just have gasket and masking tape on hand. A small diameter vacuum hose and nozzle can fit inside dome.

However, doing from above by sliding up a slip joint gives way more access.

Our AF25 and SC25 and BX24 have sliding bypass plate, making it easier to go through the firebox with flex shaft and brush and also get most debris falling into the firebox.

BKVP