ok so my englander is 3 months old and today once in a while I hear the combustion blower.. Sounds like a bearing is going... Put a few drops of gun oil on the outer Bearing but I can still hear it... Kinda bummed I have to buy a new motor already
Combustion motor going already?
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bcarton
Feeling the Heat
Mine was ringing a little at high speeds, I oiled it and it continued to whine intermittently for a couple days, and now it's been fine for the last 2 weeks. Maybe you'll be as lucky. I just used regular old 3-in-1 oil, but I bought some of this fancy oil that is supposed to be what Fasco recommends for the high-temp motors:
its a fasco motor in mine too.. so it kinda went away on its own? i might order one just to have as a backup..
CladMaster
Minister of Fire
Wait a moment ...... !
Is the stove new as in shop new ? If so, you can get the parts under warranty !
yes new new, i just noticed that i never filled in the paper in the manual... damn it! you think they would still cover it?
bcarton
Feeling the Heat
It went away after I oiled it, but it took a couple days to completely disappear. But as long as you have a receipt you should be able to get a new motor if you need one.
Bioburner
Moderator
When you go threw the warranty do you send the bad motor back? It would be nice to have a back up the blower is 130 bucks threw lowes and the englander web site.. I would like to have multiples incase somthing happens
bcarton
Feeling the Heat
No idea, but doubtful. Motors can be rebuilt and re-sold. A lot of blowers cost much more than $130, though, and they are kind of on the consumable side of things. One salesperson I spoke to said that realistically, count on spending about $500 every 5 years for parts, and just set aside $100 a year for that purpose. It makes sense, we're trying to operate small motors and electronics in what is essentially a fairly hostile environment.
Beaudeen
Member
Take your motor to an auto electric shop where they repair starters and alternators. My guy repairs them for a fraction of the cost of new and gives a 1 year warranty.
I own a machine shop and could rebuild the motor myself just can't have the time to have the stove down that long... I will replace the barrings in it after I get the new one
Now you are talk'in. Skate bearing work real well. Motion Industries or Diversified have them, or chuck up a small diameter round of 660CA and turn yourself a new one or two.
I read some people putting 3 in 1 oil on the bearings I'm gonna try that today and see what happens, what's the best way to get to the inner bearing?
A zoomspout oiler usually suffices. They have about a 7" pullout spout. Over oiling a motor can be as bad as not oiling a motor also.
http://www.laco.com/lubricants/zoom-spout-oiler/
http://www.laco.com/lubricants/zoom-spout-oiler/
I use a hypodermic needle and syringe filled with light machine oil myself.. Once they get noisy they are well on the road to failure. Preventive is better than reactive maintainence.
Shouldn't have to and if you did you could have been over lubricating it. That is where the warranty should come in. I would prob buy one and get one replaced by warranty then you'd have a spare.
I never oiled it till I heard the noise yesterday.. It much quieter now just a drop on the bearing. Can still slightly hear it running but it just sounds like a normal electric motor running..
Most of the drive motors either come with a ball bearing outboard / inboiard bearing caged in a pot metal housing or a self aligning 660CA bronze bushing held in place with a snap in clip and running in a felt washer, both easily replacable with a minature shielded ball bearing or another bronze plain bearing, depending on your preference.
I've been running the same drives for years and only get a new one when they terminally poop out which is rare. The non-direct drives (spur drive reduction gearboxes) destroy themselves internally from lack of grease or the composite gearing finally wears out but the direct drives last forever.
The big issue with the combustion blower drive is the heat load on the outboard bearing (closest to the blower housing) and thats hard to get away from and it's a bugger to pull the combustion fan set scrrew to remove it from the motor shaft simply because it heat welds itself.
I've been running the same drives for years and only get a new one when they terminally poop out which is rare. The non-direct drives (spur drive reduction gearboxes) destroy themselves internally from lack of grease or the composite gearing finally wears out but the direct drives last forever.
The big issue with the combustion blower drive is the heat load on the outboard bearing (closest to the blower housing) and thats hard to get away from and it's a bugger to pull the combustion fan set scrrew to remove it from the motor shaft simply because it heat welds itself.
It might be alright. I am a retired hvac tech and most residential motors for the last 20 years are sealed motors. It's like a car, what gets lubed, greased or oiled anymore? So I was surprised to hear that these motors needed oiling. I imagine it is because of the higher temps they may be exposed to. I would just call ESW monday and see what they say. My stove is about the same age and I didn't see any warranty paperwork sent with mine either.
Small can motors are (like in bathroom exhaust fans) but shaded pole synchronous motors are all open lamination motors, dirt cheap to manufacture.
True, but app $140 to replace plus your own labor. I know that they were shaded pole but unsure which type, induction or synchronous. The majority of inducers on furnaces are shaded pole and last 10 yrs or more on average. Minimum part warranty is 5 years too.
But most residential PSC or ECM motors are sealed also.
But most residential PSC or ECM motors are sealed also.
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Fair statement except yte motors on a central furnace operate in a much 'kinder' atmsphere. The operating enviroment on a pellet stove is much more hostile and they are all synchronous btw. They are cheap to make, last fairly long and are rebuildable so long as you have the knowledge. If not , plug and play...
Chris,
Do what Bio said. They have to honor their warranty anyway. Send in the paperwork with a copy of the receipt. It's a year from date of purchase worst case. I see where you already ordered a new one which you would have to do after a year anyway. Put the new in and get a warranty replacement for the bad one. Then you have backup once the warranty replacement arrives. Stove is only down for the replacement. You can also take the bad on into work for a rebuild then you have 2 backups.
Do what Bio said. They have to honor their warranty anyway. Send in the paperwork with a copy of the receipt. It's a year from date of purchase worst case. I see where you already ordered a new one which you would have to do after a year anyway. Put the new in and get a warranty replacement for the bad one. Then you have backup once the warranty replacement arrives. Stove is only down for the replacement. You can also take the bad on into work for a rebuild then you have 2 backups.
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