Control Secondary Burn by Blocking Secondary Intakes

[brenndatomu]

If its physically possible, a key damper is by far the easiest way to control draft/high flue temps...other than a barometric damper, but most here don't want to talk about those. (and I don't blame someone for not wanting one on a stove in living areas, mainly due to looks)

 

[Slimdusty]

If its physically possible, a key damper is by far the easiest way to control draft/high flue temps...other than a barometric damper, but most here don't want to talk about those. (and I don't blame someone for not wanting one on a stove in living areas, mainly due to looks)

I have an insert, so while a key damper would be possible, it would be a difficult install, not sure I’m down for that at this point. Barometric damper= wife appeal factor very low I suspect.

 

[Slimdusty]

I’ve messed with my secondary air ports with my previous Jotul’s. It definitely made a difference partially blocking them with magnets. It was hard though finding that sweet spot since so many variables in burning. It would be better if one could figure a way to make an adjustable secondary air slide instead of just a fixed blockage.

I have a lopi insert, and I am not sure the exact air path of the secondary air, hard to follow and not much online that I have found. Why I was thinking of restricting the air at the tubes. We”ll see….

 

[Todd]

Another thing that may help you may want to tinker with is the primary boost air. This is usually located in the lower front of the firebox and creates a blow torch effect into the middle of the fire. In most cases this air is unrestricted and can really get rippin. I blocked mine on my Jotul F45 and it gave me better control.

 

[begreen]

I burn a lot of willow and then locust later on when it gets cold. Wood is dry, have not checked moisture content lately but it’s had two summers in an arid climate to dry. My burn times average 6-8 hours on a full box, 2.2 cubic foot so they say. Definitely can’t put 2.2 of wood in the box. Not terrible burn times per say, but I go back to higher than ideal flue temps equals wasted btu’s and lack of controlling the air enough.

The willow will burn very differently than the locust. Another option for longer burns is to fill the firebox fuller by loading shorter pieces of firewood N/S. This allows fuller loads without the worry about wood rolling up against the glass.

Note: Be careful about blocking the boost air. It is more important on E/W loaders because the front logs can act as an air dam, making for harder startups, though a workaround is top down starting.

 

[begreen]

If its physically possible, a key damper is by far the easiest way to control draft/high flue temps...other than a barometric damper, but most here don't want to talk about those. (and I don't blame someone for not wanting one on a stove in living areas, mainly due to looks)

This is an insert. The flue is already under factory minimum. These stoves should not smolder. Adding a key damper for an insert is complicated and unnecessary here.