Converting a Zero Clearance Fireplace in a Modular home

[codychap]

Hello,

I live in a pre fabricated modular home that sits on a full concrete basement. The house had a Marco, zero clearance fireplace in it. Last year I burned 2 cords of oak through it, and was disappointed with the lack of heat I received in the house. After talking with a few Fireplace stores, I decided to rip the entire unit out.

I want to put a mobile home approved wood burning stove in. Can I use the existing hole in the roof?

The hole has a pipe that is is 12.5 inches wide, with a 6 inch flu, would this act as a double wall system?

I can achieve the minimum distance requirements from the walls with the mobile home approved stove I have picked out.

What I am not sure about is the 12.5 hole that is there and the chimney kit from the original system sufficient for my new 6 inch flu?

Thanks

 

[Fsappo]

If it was me, I would take the old pipe and flashing out. Your can use class A packed chimney from Metalbestos. 6" ID (even in a DW trailer plenty of stoves that can run off 6" flues and heat it) is 8" od. Add 2" clearance around the pipe and you need a 12" hole . Look at the components on metalbestos website
(broken link removed to http://www.selkirkcorp.com/WorkArea/showcontent.aspx?id=7468)
Roof support kit, flashing, storm collar, interior trim (pitched or flat) pipe adapter, cap and probably 6' of class A should get you.

I don't see a reason to use any of the old stuff, unless the flashing had a 12.25-12.5" hole in it.

 

[begreen]

Agreed, I would use all new. Question: Is a manufactured home on a permanent foundation with a basement even considered a mobile?

The main issue with mobiles is that most have a relatively flat roof. This usually means a short chimney, well below the normal 15-16 ft that a lot of stoves are tested with and prefer for good draft. If this the case I would get an easy breathing stove for this setup. PE stoves work well on shorter chimneys.

 

[codychap]

good question on the not so mobile mobile home, according to the mortgage company it can be un bolted, split in half and moved.

I have vaulted ceilings, from stove to tope of the existing chimney is almost 10 feet.

Would a chimney kit include all the things i need to complete this?

 

[Hallibean6]

Hello,

I live in a pre fabricated modular home that sits on a full concrete basement. The house had a Marco, zero clearance fireplace in it. Last year I burned 2 cords of oak through it, and was disappointed with the lack of heat I received in the house. After talking with a few Fireplace stores, I decided to rip the entire unit out.

I want to put a mobile home approved wood burning stove in. Can I use the existing hole in the roof?

The hole has a pipe that is is 12.5 inches wide, with a 6 inch flu, would this act as a double wall system?

I can achieve the minimum distance requirements from the walls with the mobile home approved stove I have picked out.

What I am not sure about is the 12.5 hole that is there and the chimney kit from the original system sufficient for my new 6 inch flu?

ThanksView attachment 148839 View attachment 148840 View attachment 148841

We did the same thing. Manufactured doublewide with corner zeroclearance fireplace. More for looks than anything heat wise. Took it out. Used exsisting hole but put in brand new chimney kit for manufactured homes from Duravent. Had it installed by a friend who does heating and cooling. We now have an Englander #30 with pedestal instead of legs (had to be that way) Our home is almost 80 feet long and it is still considered mobile...Next time we go camping we might just hook it up to the truck

 

[begreen]

Would a chimney kit include all the things i need to complete this?

Maybe. Is there no attic? If not and the interior slope is the roof slope, then a cathedral ceiling support box will do the job. Will you be buying locally or online?

 

[Hallibean6]

good question on the not so mobile mobile home, according to the mortgage company it can be un bolted, split in half and moved.

I have vaulted ceilings, from stove to tope of the existing chimney is almost 10 feet.

Would a chimney kit include all the things i need to complete this?

Chimney kit from Duravent included everything from the ceiling up. They have Basic kit and manufactured kit. We don't really have an attic. Space is only about 8 inches at the most.

 

[codychap]

awesome! thanks for sharing, how much of your home does the Englander 30 heat?

 

[John S]

Like Hallibean6 we had a very similar setup. In the end we removed everything and went with new pipe and chimney. And the Alderlea T4 which has been close to perfect. The install thread is https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/new-stove-for-an-old-couple.132993/ A couple of the photos show how we hid the too large opening in the ceiling - just a piece of 1/4" plywood painted white. Really don't notice it at all.

 

[codychap]

John S, great looking set up!

Im wondering if anybody can tell me, if i can use the basic chimney kit or the one specifically for mobile homes? Home depot carries the basic kit in stock and the mobile home one is online only and they are backorderd

 

[Hallibean6]

awesome! thanks for sharing, how much of your home does the Englander 30 heat?

Home is just over 2100 sq ft. stove is at one end. This past Saturday it was about 76 in the family room (where it is) 72 in the living room and kitchen area and 66 in the bedroom which is the furthest from the stove. Felt good to feel the heat and not hear the furnace running Didn't have it burning real hot either. Just enuf to keep the creosote away and be comfortable.

 

[codychap]

Awesome! I am looking forward to that myself, right now I consume Propane at an alarming rate to keep my home 62 degrees, needless to say, the wife is not happy

 

[John S]

One thing to be aware of is your plumbing. At our place, where the well water enters the "basement" the previous owner built a Styrofoam box about 4x5' for the pressure tank, etc and then ran a small vent off the main heating duct. Then the water lines for the kitchen run right alongside the main duct. Works great as long as the propane furnace is running. For this year I've got 2 remote thermometers to monitor the temps. If the temp gets too low, first I'll run the furnace fan and if that isn't enough then the furnace. So far this year with the relatively warm temps we've had, it hasn't been a problem but I'm keeping on top of it.