Converting Vermont Castings Radiance 2240 from LP to NG

[iota]

Our house came with a late-90's Vermont Castings Radiance 2240 stove which is absolutely beautiful and works great. It is fueled by Propane, but we've recently got a Natural Gas meter set and want to switch the stove to NG as we don't have anything else left on propane.

When I look at the manual, it lists the parts required for NG as:
Bray Injector #82-900, part number 160-1313
NG Pilot Orifice, part number 160-1301
NG Valve, part number 160-1303

However since Vermont Castings appears to have changed hands many times over the past 20 years, I can't find anyone that supplies these parts (which apparently were sold as a conversion kit #5092).

I've seen a couple postings on here from users a decade ago that were able to find parts or were able to trade with others for this stove, which would be great if anyone wants to trade (or knows where to find the parts). However, the chances of that are probably low so I'd like to explore the possibility of just replacing the valve and orifices with modern parts, as I see some people have done with other stove models.

I think that I can probably figure out the replacement valve, as there are a variety of options available on Amazon and eBay. However, I can't find any pictures of or references to the measurements for the injector/pilot orifice to look for a suitable replacement.

Does anyone here have any info on what parts might be needed to get this unit converted from LP to NG so that we don't have to just scrap it? Thanks guys!

 

[iota]

I pulled the unit apart today and it appears to already have a natural gas Robertshaw 7000 milivolt valve but I'll replace that; I also found this post https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...version-kit-5093-or-compareable-parts.130834/ which shows a place in the UK that may supply the main bray injector (although my book says I need a 82/900 and they only list 82/850 but hopefully there is some similar part that will work). The pilot orifice seems to be pretty standard 1/4" part (I think I need 0.021"). Has anyone else tried this conversion from LP to NG?

 

[Tech Guru]

That Brays Injector has always been the sticky wicket. Seen enough of these old stoves get sold and resold on Craig's List due to the conversions kits having been long disco'ed.

Converting the Robertshaw valve or pilot was easier to find the aftermarket parts.

 

[iota]

That Brays Injector has always been the sticky wicket. Seen enough of these old stoves get sold and resold on Craig's List due to the conversions kits having been long disco'ed.

Converting the Robertshaw valve or pilot was easier to find the aftermarket parts.

Yes, thats what I have been finding is that the bray injector is the missing piece. The fact that it has a 90degree elbow to it makes it harder to find an identical part, but I think I should be able to just reroute (or replace) the aluminum gas tube so that it heads "straight" into the burner. I just need to find a straight orifice that has the right "output" and that's what I'm not sure about. The stock part has 7 holes and I am struggling to find any NG orifices that seem to match.

 

[87yotaman]

I started a conversation with you, but figured I would post on your thread to make sure this gets to you.

I am looking for a LP conversion, as I have a NG setup now in my 2240. Please message me back if you still need or if yours is available and you would like to sell.

 

[iota]

I started a conversation with you, but figured I would post on your thread to make sure this gets to you.

I am looking for a LP conversion, as I have a NG setup now in my 2240. Please message me back if you still need or if yours is available and you would like to sell.

I replied to your message, would LOVE to trade my propane injector #82-300 for your #83-900!

To anyone else reading this thread, I have spent many hours talking to gas log experts and researching/buying stuff online. Here's what I've found, there are only 4 things you need to do:

- My stove came with a Robertshaw natural gas valve from the factory; the gas log guy said this was common, as the NG valve units work fine with propane. If you are doing a conversion and yours does not have a natural gas valve already, just go on Amazon and get a Robertshaw 7000 millivolt valve. They also make a propane kit for the Robertshaw valves, but again, mine is using a natural gas valve on propane for the last 20+ years without issue. The part number of my stock valve is labeled: Robertshaw-Grayson 7000MVRLC 711-711-401 MAX 1/2 PSI NAT. 3.5" WC and on the front, the removable round part is stamped with an "N" and looks identical to the other NG valve ones I see on amazon.

- You'll also need the appropriate pilot orifice. The orifice is really easy to find on Amazon as well, just search for "pilot orifice" and get one of the thimble looking ones. I've ordered and tested a handful and they all work the same. Propane requires an orifice that is .010 so it will be stamped "P10" on the tip, thats what my stock one has on it but you can get identical ones on Amazon by searching ".010 pilot orifice". Natural gas requires a .021 orifice which will be stamped "N21" on the tip. I also got a .018 orifice and it seems to work OK but the pilot flame is a bit small so your mileage may vary.

- The final part that you need to do the conversion is the brays injector, which is a brass, 90-degree elbow that goes into the end of the burner tube. It has 7 tiny holes on the business end and a ceramic tip. For propane, the part is stamped 82-300. For natural gas, the part is 82-900. The site ignus.co.uk sells new old stock bray injectors, but they don't have the 82-900 - just the 82-300 (along with other unrelated sizes). I had multiple natural gas and gas log guys tell me that all I need to do is drill out the holes in the end of the injector to be approximately double the size - one drill bit size up. One gas log guy who looked at my unit was prepared to drill the orifice holes to 1/16" but I had him hold off because I wanted to see if I could source a replacement first just in case (and I'm glad I waited as it sounds like the poster above has the part I need!). I intended to use a pin vise from Amazon to slowly drill the holes out slightly larger and test until I got a good flame.

- Finally, you'll need to adjust the air shutter (the part that the brays injector goes in to). For propane, the air shutter should be fully open. For natural gas, the air shutter should be closed half way. You just undo a screw and rotate it, then re-tighten the screw.


I hope this info helps someone doing the conversion, and I am so thankful to hear from 82yotaman that they may have the part I need - if not then I will carefully drill out the brays injector I have and should be all set, according to the pros who I had look at the unit that say they have done this on many units in the past with good success.

 

[Tech Guru]

- My stove came with a Robertshaw natural gas valve from the factory; the gas log guy said this was common, as the NG valve units work fine with propane. If you are doing a conversion and yours does not have a natural gas valve already, just go on Amazon and get a Robertshaw 7000 millivolt valve. They also make a propane kit for the Robertshaw valves, but again, mine is using a natural gas valve on propane for the last 20+ years without issue. The part number of my stock valve is labeled: Robertshaw-Grayson 7000MVRLC 711-711-401 MAX 1/2 PSI NAT. 3.5" WC and on the front, the removable round part is stamped with an "N" and looks identical to the other NG valve ones I see on amazon.

The Robertshaw gas valve was convertible using a regulator kit. It would typically have had a sticker to apply to the valve indicating it was switched for fuel type, which is a step that could be easily forgotten or the sticker just could have fell off over time (these units are in their 30's at this point). Often the regulator was marked with a blue dot for NG or a red for LP. If your unit has the properly marked/sized brays injector, it is a virtual certainty that your valve was converted at the time it was converted.

 

[iota]

The Robertshaw gas valve was convertible using a regulator kit. It would typically have had a sticker to apply to the valve indicating it was switched for fuel type, which is a step that could be easily forgotten or the sticker just could have fell off over time (these units are in their 30's at this point). Often the regulator was marked with a blue dot for NG or a red for LP. If your unit has the properly marked/sized brays injector, it is a virtual certainty that your valve was converted at the time it was converted.

My understanding and what I've gathered from photos is that the Robertshaw regulator looks different for NG than it does for LP - mine has an N stamped in the front of it and looks like the NG regulators I've seen online (the screw is silver), but this is good info - I may order a new valve entirely just to be safe.

 

[iota]

Just wanted to follow up and first of a big thanks to 87yotaman who I was able to trade my LP bray injector with his NG bray injector to make finishing this project a little easier. I now have my unit running on NG and it's working like a dream!

For anyone looking to convert a Radiance 2240 from propane (LP) to natural gas, here are the instructions:

- I was able to confirm that my unit's original Robertshaw valve was definitely an NG valve with an NG regulator, despite being an LP unit from the factory, so anyone reading this in the future - you may want to check your valve and regulator for a stamped "N" or blue dot on the round housing on the front. I ended up replacing my valve with a brand new Robertshaw 710-502 just for good measure but it was not necessary in the end. The valve I used is this one: Amazon product ASIN B001DPO1RY
- adjust the air shutter to be halfway closed (LP = all the way open; NG = half closed). The air shutter is the round hole that the bray injector sticks into, you undo one screw on the underside then rotate it and tighten the screw.

- replace the pilot orifice with a 0.018 orifice (ignore my previous notes saying that it needed a 0.021, the proper one is 0.018 but either will work). The orifice I used is this one: Amazon product ASIN B00UMVLA0Q and the orifice is a little thimble that goes on the 1/4" tubing into the pilot assembly. You don't need to remove the pilot assembly to take it out - just loosen the compression fitting on the underside of the pilot. You may need to adjust your pilot on your Robertshaw valve after conversion - my pilot was huge so I had to use the pilot adjust screw (which is under a cap that looks like a silver screw on the valve unit) to make it smaller.

- the hardest part is the bray injector, which is a brass 90-degree elbow fitting with a ceramic tip. This is where the gas comes out and goes into the burner tube when you turn the stove on. The injector has been out of production for decades and are the hard part to find. The part that you need for NG is stamped "82-900" on one side and "bray" on the other (the LP part is "82-300"). You can either try to find someone to trade with; or, you can modify your existing 82-300 to have larger holes. LP 82-300 orifices have 7x very small holes; the NG 82-900 has 7x larger holes, approximately 2x larger. I talked to a natural gas stove service tech guy and he said to just drill my 82-300 with a 1/16" drill bit and that would do the trick; luckily I was able to trade before having to do that. If you do drill, you may want to use a pin vise like this one: Amazon product ASIN B07FJ6VD2P to make the holes slightly larger, then try it and see if the flame looks OK - worst case it will just have a small flame or run inefficiently, the unit won't explode if you make the holes a bit too small or too large (you may need to adjust your Robertshaw's regulator or the air shutter to compensate). If anyone ever reads this, send me a message on this site and I can try to measure the outlets on my 82-900 NG injector for you to know the stock size of the outlets. You can also try contacting this site http://www.ignus.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=172 because they appear to sell the 82-300 LP injectors (they do NOT have the NG ones, I asked) so you could always buy a "spare" if needed, but they can be hard to get in touch with from the USA.

Good luck to anyone else trying this - overall once the right parts and everything were figured out, this was super easy... now to find a fan that works for this unit!

 

[shwagon]

Just wanted to follow up and first of a big thanks to 87yotaman who I was able to trade my LP bray injector with his NG bray injector to make finishing this project a little easier. I now have my unit running on NG and it's working like a dream!

For anyone looking to convert a Radiance 2240 from propane (LP) to natural gas, here are the instructions:

- I was able to confirm that my unit's original Robertshaw valve was definitely an NG valve with an NG regulator, despite being an LP unit from the factory, so anyone reading this in the future - you may want to check your valve and regulator for a stamped "N" or blue dot on the round housing on the front. I ended up replacing my valve with a brand new Robertshaw 710-502 just for good measure but it was not necessary in the end. The valve I used is this one: Amazon product ASIN B001DPO1RY
- adjust the air shutter to be halfway closed (LP = all the way open; NG = half closed). The air shutter is the round hole that the bray injector sticks into, you undo one screw on the underside then rotate it and tighten the screw.

- replace the pilot orifice with a 0.018 orifice (ignore my previous notes saying that it needed a 0.021, the proper one is 0.018 but either will work). The orifice I used is this one: Amazon product ASIN B00UMVLA0Q and the orifice is a little thimble that goes on the 1/4" tubing into the pilot assembly. You don't need to remove the pilot assembly to take it out - just loosen the compression fitting on the underside of the pilot. You may need to adjust your pilot on your Robertshaw valve after conversion - my pilot was huge so I had to use the pilot adjust screw (which is under a cap that looks like a silver screw on the valve unit) to make it smaller.

- the hardest part is the bray injector, which is a brass 90-degree elbow fitting with a ceramic tip. This is where the gas comes out and goes into the burner tube when you turn the stove on. The injector has been out of production for decades and are the hard part to find. The part that you need for NG is stamped "82-900" on one side and "bray" on the other (the LP part is "82-300"). You can either try to find someone to trade with; or, you can modify your existing 82-300 to have larger holes. LP 82-300 orifices have 7x very small holes; the NG 82-900 has 7x larger holes, approximately 2x larger. I talked to a natural gas stove service tech guy and he said to just drill my 82-300 with a 1/16" drill bit and that would do the trick; luckily I was able to trade before having to do that. If you do drill, you may want to use a pin vise like this one: Amazon product ASIN B07FJ6VD2P to make the holes slightly larger, then try it and see if the flame looks OK - worst case it will just have a small flame or run inefficiently, the unit won't explode if you make the holes a bit too small or too large (you may need to adjust your Robertshaw's regulator or the air shutter to compensate). If anyone ever reads this, send me a message on this site and I can try to measure the outlets on my 82-900 NG injector for you to know the stock size of the outlets. You can also try contacting this site http://www.ignus.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=172 because they appear to sell the 82-300 LP injectors (they do NOT have the NG ones, I asked) so you could always buy a "spare" if needed, but they can be hard to get in touch with from the USA.

Good luck to anyone else trying this - overall once the right parts and everything were figured out, this was super easy... now to find a fan that works for this unit!

Iota,

I can't thank you enough for your time, research, sharing your findings, and most importantly - laying out the necessary information for people that maybe converting the opposite way from you (from NG to LP). Even though the information didn't apply to you, your findings help the community tremendously!

I will be converting a Radiance 2240 from Natural Gas to Propane. Your post probably saved the project as I was about to abandon it due to the parts issues with these older Vermont Castings models. I'm going to be reaching out to Ignus in the UK - fingers crossed they can supply the LP bray injector....

Thanks again!

Indexing/Keywords: LP30 NG30 000-5063 000-5062 0005063 0005062

 

[iota]

Iota,

I can't thank you enough for your time, research, sharing your findings, and most importantly - laying out the necessary information for people that maybe converting the opposite way from you (from NG to LP). Even though the information didn't apply to you, your findings help the community tremendously!

I will be converting a Radiance 2240 from Natural Gas to Propane. Your post probably saved the project as I was about to abandon it due to the parts issues with these older Vermont Castings models. I'm going to be reaching out to Ignus in the UK - fingers crossed they can supply the LP bray injector....

Thanks again!

Indexing/Keywords: LP30 NG30 000-5063 000-5062 0005063 0005062

Funny that you're in Greensboro - so am I! Had you caught this post a month or two ago before 87yotaman did, we could have traded parts. Good luck and let me know if you have any trouble, hopefully you can find someone to trade or get the 82-300 injector you'll need. You will also need a .010 pilot orifice thimble, I have my old one that you are welcome to have if you'd like (or you can pick one up from amazon for a few bucks). Wish I had another injector for you but they are very rare as you can tell

 

[shwagon]

Funny that you're in Greensboro - so am I! Had you caught this post a month or two ago before 87yotaman did, we could have traded parts. Good luck and let me know if you have any trouble, hopefully you can find someone to trade or get the 82-300 injector you'll need. You will also need a .010 pilot orifice thimble, I have my old one that you are welcome to have if you'd like (or you can pick one up from amazon for a few bucks). Wish I had another injector for you but they are very rare as you can tell

Haha, no way, small world! Just my luck on timing (always a min late and a dollar short lol) ...

I recently moved to a house about 30min north of the city (Ruffin, NC) with a Radiance 2240 in it. The round about story I got from the house owner was - they purchased the stove used about 10 years ago, and had a "handy man" install it... However, the unit never worked right (huge flames with a lot of soot), and they haven't used it since.

Im now trying to piece together why the stove is operating like that...

The tag underneath the burn tray states "Model: NG-30 Natural Gas", however, the house is on LP....

The valve appears to be the Robertshaw 7000 millivolt valve you mentioned above, with an LP conversion regulator already installed (see pic below):

I started digging a bit more and found your thread. I'll check the the markings on the bray injector and pilot orifice thimble tonight when I get home. Im halfway thinking the installer did the LP regulator conversion and gave up on looking for the other parts, but can now confirm thanks to your info!

My only standing question until I look at the injector/orifice is - I'm run two different LR regulators noted for the valve conversion:

Robertshaw HI-LO Gas Regulator for LP Gas 1751-021 :

or Robertshaw LP Gas Conversion Pressure Regulator Kit 1751-013:

Any input on which is the proper one for converting the valve to LP?

 

[iota]

Yes, looks like you already have a propane valve (its stamped 11.0 - 11"wc is the proper pressure for propane appliances). HOWEVER, my unit and apparently many other peoples units (and I confirmed this with Shawn from https://www.facebook.com/ForsythProfessionalGasLogsSpecialist/ ) all came from the factory with NG 3.5"wc regulators/valves, irregardless if they were set for LP or NG. In fact, I have tried both my original factory NG setup (despite having an LP unit from the factory) and a brand new NG robertshaw valve, on BOTH LP and NG, and all combinations work fine.

I honestly think that since this appliance uses so little gas and the bray injector/shutter does all the "work" to limit gas consumption, that you don't actually need a propane regulator kit on your valve - the natural gas regulator's 0.13PSI output is more than sufficient even for propane.

In fact, it's possible (although I am not a gas log scientist) that having the propane regulator on there might be supplying too much gas, but I don't really know if that's even possible. If you want, I still have my original valve/regulator/LP pilot orifice and you are welcome to it (although i think the pilot tube fitting is stuck so you may need to drill it out). May be a waste of time though.

If I was you I would check these things:

1) You can fiddle with your pilot orifice but honestly other than having too big or small of a pilot flame, this is harmless. You can also adjust the pilot, remove the silver screw above the on/pilot/off knob, then turn the little screw underneath to adjust the pilot size. The pilot really has nothing to do with the functionality of the unit, it's just gotta be big enough to light the burner and keep the thermopile warm (which is basically the "fail safe" that keeps the valve open - when it gets cold, the valve turns off the gas, to prevent gas leak if pilot goes out)

2) Figure out what injector you have. If you have a 82-900 (NG), then that is entirely your problem. The holes on this are twice the size they should be so you are putting out twice the gas you need. It may be possible to block off half the holes somehow - maybe a real tiny eyeglass screw stuck in 3 of the holes - to reduce the gas output.

3) If you have an 82-300 (LP) injector then you are lucky. All you need to do is fiddle with your air shutter (should be wide open) and if that doesn't help the flame size and soot, replace your regulator/valve to reduce your gas flow (put on an NG regulator to cut the gas flow by 60%). This sounds unlikely to be your case, honestly.

Keep in mind that it sounds like your unit WORKS, it's just not working WELL. So you aren't screwed, you just need to get:
- The right sized pilot to light the burners and keep the thermopile warm without wasting gas
- The right amount of gas going into the burner tube
- The right amount of air going into the burner tube

PS, if you are on LP you won't want to leave the pilot lit for extended periods of time as it wastes gas. When I had LP for my stove, I would just light the pilot and light the unit with the spark igniter, and then turn the valve to "off" entirely when I was done with the unit for the night. I actually used grill tanks (set outside with a pipe through the wall) and a regular 11"wc grill-style regulator to power the unit and it worked fine but the pilot would drain a tank in a week or two.

 

[shwagon]

Yes, looks like you already have a propane valve (its stamped 11.0 - 11"wc is the proper pressure for propane appliances). HOWEVER, my unit and apparently many other peoples units (and I confirmed this with Shawn from https://www.facebook.com/ForsythProfessionalGasLogsSpecialist/ ) all came from the factory with NG 3.5"wc regulators/valves, irregardless if they were set for LP or NG. In fact, I have tried both my original factory NG setup (despite having an LP unit from the factory) and a brand new NG robertshaw valve, on BOTH LP and NG, and all combinations work fine.

I honestly think that since this appliance uses so little gas and the bray injector/shutter does all the "work" to limit gas consumption, that you don't actually need a propane regulator kit on your valve - the natural gas regulator's 0.13PSI output is more than sufficient even for propane.

In fact, it's possible (although I am not a gas log scientist) that having the propane regulator on there might be supplying too much gas, but I don't really know if that's even possible. If you want, I still have my original valve/regulator/LP pilot orifice and you are welcome to it (although i think the pilot tube fitting is stuck so you may need to drill it out). May be a waste of time though.

If I was you I would check these things:

1) You can fiddle with your pilot orifice but honestly other than having too big or small of a pilot flame, this is harmless. You can also adjust the pilot, remove the silver screw above the on/pilot/off knob, then turn the little screw underneath to adjust the pilot size. The pilot really has nothing to do with the functionality of the unit, it's just gotta be big enough to light the burner and keep the thermopile warm (which is basically the "fail safe" that keeps the valve open - when it gets cold, the valve turns off the gas, to prevent gas leak if pilot goes out)

2) Figure out what injector you have. If you have a 82-900 (NG), then that is entirely your problem. The holes on this are twice the size they should be so you are putting out twice the gas you need. It may be possible to block off half the holes somehow - maybe a real tiny eyeglass screw stuck in 3 of the holes - to reduce the gas output.

3) If you have an 82-300 (LP) injector then you are lucky. All you need to do is fiddle with your air shutter (should be wide open) and if that doesn't help the flame size and soot, replace your regulator/valve to reduce your gas flow (put on an NG regulator to cut the gas flow by 60%). This sounds unlikely to be your case, honestly.

Keep in mind that it sounds like your unit WORKS, it's just not working WELL. So you aren't screwed, you just need to get:
- The right sized pilot to light the burners and keep the thermopile warm without wasting gas
- The right amount of gas going into the burner tube
- The right amount of air going into the burner tube

PS, if you are on LP you won't want to leave the pilot lit for extended periods of time as it wastes gas. When I had LP for my stove, I would just light the pilot and light the unit with the spark igniter, and then turn the valve to "off" entirely when I was done with the unit for the night. I actually used grill tanks (set outside with a pipe through the wall) and a regular 11"wc grill-style regulator to power the unit and it worked fine but the pilot would drain a tank in a week or two.

Again, incredibly helpful information!

I pulled everything out last night and found that I did indeed have the 82-900 (NG) injector. I am going to try to block off half the holes temporarily while I keep my fingers crossed regarding sourcing a 82-300 (LP) injector from the UK.

Only questions now is - Where is the Air Shutter that is referenced?

 

[iota]

So, it looks like you have a different unit than the Radiance 2240 that I (and a couple others) have. Yours appears to have the same internals - the pilot & thermopile assembly & the injector are identical - but the layout is totally different and this really looks nothing like what I have. On my and 87yotaman's Radiance 2240, there is a metal tube that the injector pokes into, and on the side of the tube is a screw that you can undo and turn to open and close a slot which is what is used to control the amount of air that's being mixed in.

Yours doesn't appear to have an air shutter or that inlet tube at all - it looks like your injector is just pointed straight into what I assume is a pre-cast burner assembly or something.

I wonder if you could experiment with taking a piece of sheet metal and using it to try to block off some of that "hole" that the injector goes into, effectively reducing the amount of air that is going in. Imagine a throttle on a simple engine, right now your throttle is wide open so you are getting a lot of air with your gas, and if you can create some kind of a restrictor plate to limit the amount of air, that might give you better combustion (perhaps without modifying the injector at all, I'm not sure).

This is all just a guess though - on my unit, there is just a screw that you undo and a little tube-with-a-slot that you turn which opens or closes the slot and lets more air in or out (opening or closing the throttle, effectively).

 

[shwagon]

So, it looks like you have a different unit than the Radiance 2240 that I (and a couple others) have. Yours appears to have the same internals - the pilot & thermopile assembly & the injector are identical - but the layout is totally different and this really looks nothing like what I have. On my and 87yotaman's Radiance 2240, there is a metal tube that the injector pokes into, and on the side of the tube is a screw that you can undo and turn to open and close a slot which is what is used to control the amount of air that's being mixed in.

Yours doesn't appear to have an air shutter or that inlet tube at all - it looks like your injector is just pointed straight into what I assume is a pre-cast burner assembly or something.

I wonder if you could experiment with taking a piece of sheet metal and using it to try to block off some of that "hole" that the injector goes into, effectively reducing the amount of air that is going in. Imagine a throttle on a simple engine, right now your throttle is wide open so you are getting a lot of air with your gas, and if you can create some kind of a restrictor plate to limit the amount of air, that might give you better combustion (perhaps without modifying the injector at all, I'm not sure).

This is all just a guess though - on my unit, there is just a screw that you undo and a little tube-with-a-slot that you turn which opens or closes the slot and lets more air in or out (opening or closing the throttle, effectively).

Dang it, just my luck... again...

Sounds like we may start getting deep into "tuning and combustion theory for propane"... See thing this is my first gas appliance (other than a Weber grill), I know nothing about this... lol

I know this is a loaded question, but - Any link or video that could get me on the right track to make sure my flame is efficient/correct once I do the conversion?

 

[iota]

I am sure there are videos on youtube or experts who can give advice on here, but from what I've heard, you want the flames to be blue (especially at the bottom), not yellow like a candle flame - they can be yellow at the top, especially after it's running for a while and the entire unit is heated up - but if you are getting blue flames them you are getting complete combustion I think. Just try to adjust it so that your flames are lapping at fake logs like they would in a real fireplace - my flames extend maybe an inch or two above the logs at most - not so that they are going all the way to the top of the fire box or look really huge.

Honestly a lot of it will come down to trial and error i would guess, and luckily there's no "wrong" answer as it would be tough to make the gas logs into a bomb just by fiddling with the amount of air going in - so just mess with it until it looks right and seems to be completely combusting the gas and you'll be fine. These units are a lot more "good enough for government work" type tweaking, than the exacting settings you might think of for tuning a fuel injected car

 

[Jmickulin]

I don't want to hijack this thread but I am looking for an 82-300 as well to convert my stove to LP from Natural Gas. Did you have any success in getting one from the company above? I emailed them but haven't recieved a reply back yet. I also tried to order off their website and it says they can't ship to me.

 

[iota]

I don't want to hijack this thread but I am looking for an 82-300 as well to convert my stove to LP from Natural Gas. Did you have any success in getting one from the company above? I emailed them but haven't recieved a reply back yet. I also tried to order off their website and it says they can't ship to me.

I did not order from them, no - sorry that they aren't replying, unfortunately I never found anyone else who even sold anything close to the right part!

 

[Dale rients]

Did you get what you need for your stove because I have one that works great but need to change to propane

 

[iota]

I did, thank you - another member had the NG part I needed to trade for my propane one. Good luck!

 

[Dale rients]

Good I'm looking for the number on the propane orfice if you have it thanks

 

[iota]

The propane injector is 82-300

 

[Erik Storrer]

So, thanks to all for the excellent information in this thread, I have purchase my own Radiance 2600. It’s LP, I wanted to convert to NG and not lose the LP 82- 300 so I decided to make my own 82-900 rather than drill out the holes of the 82-300. And it worked! See pictures attached. How’d I do it. Used a acetylene torch tip size “0” and turned on a lathe. Interference press fit into a brass 1/4” ID nipple. Drilled out using the tool suggested by “iota”. A little work, but works. Used about a 1.27mm drill. Then attached my nipple to a 5/16 tube diameter elbow with a female pipe thread to attach my new hand made 82-900 orifice end. Had to drill out the steel support plate, used a washer to support it, seen in pictures. Take care to match the length of extensions into the ceramic fuel block. I also replaced the aluminum tube and compression couplings. Used the Shaw valve too! picture is testing it on a loundry basket LOL

 

[Erik Storrer]

Making your own 82-300 or 82-900...
I’m sure the “0” torch tip will work for LP with out drilling or as is. I turned torch tip down to slightly larger than nipple ID , jammed into the nipple, then using hack saw cut off the rest of the torch. I inserted about 3mm into the brass nipple. Polished end with sand paper. For NG drill the 0 tip holes with a 1.2-1.3 mm drill. Tip: get a torch tip cleaning tool to remove debris including a broken drill bit from your holes.