Corner install in walkout basement

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Ledhead26

New Member
Sep 6, 2021
8
Elkton, MD
Hi all,
New to the forum and new to the pellet stove world in general. I have been reading a ton of info on here the last couple weeks but wanted to get some direct advice for my situation. Sorry if this gets a little wordy...

I’m planning on installing a gently used Enviro Mini A in one of the corners of my finished basement. The corner is near the walkout door so the grade outside the block wall is about 5” higher than the floor the stove will be sitting on. I planned on running a 45 off the back of the stove and then going straight out the wall(through thimble) then to the clean out tee then up 4 or 5 feet to the exhaust termination. This would leave the bottom of the clean out tee probably only a couple inches off of the ground. Is this okay?Or should I plan on going up inside the room first some before exiting the wall? I wanted to avoid this as to have the clean out tee outdoors.

Also, I’ve looked on pipe specifications and my stove specs and can’t find any info on clearance from the ground outside to the OAK inlet. Is there a spec somewhere for this or just common sense?

Lastly, my wall is about 17” thick with the block foundation plus interior wall. I can’t find a thimble deep enough for this. Is there a workaround for this issue?
Sorry for all the questions and thank you for any help you can give.
 
Welcome to the forum
The way you plan on running your smoke pipe is OK as long as
you can clean the pipe from the top down and are able to open up the cleanout.
Personly I like the look of pipe in the house but
you do get a little more mess with the cleanout
in the house.
The OAK does not need clearances it is just an outside air intake
no heat to worry about just make sure it is kept clear of debris and snow
 
I wouldn't think that you would need a thimble extension thru a concrete wall. The thimble will be enough to give you the clearance needed for your sheetrock / siding/combustibles. You will need a single piece of pipe to go thru each side of the thimble, no connections within the wall allowed.
 
So basically your saying as long as the gap in the thimble is inside the block wall then all is good? And I’m assuming I would run a two foot section of vent pipe to clear the wall without and connections.
 
I have a similar setup with sheetrock inside of a brick exterior.
The thimble goes through the sheetrock and butts up against the brick. Then a hole through the brick only big enough for the exhaust pipe to fit.
You don't need the ~7" hole needed for the thimble all the way through the concrete.
 
So basically your saying as long as the gap in the thimble is inside the block wall then all is good? And I’m assuming I would run a two foot section of vent pipe to clear the wall without and connections.

Correct.

I have a similar setup with sheetrock inside of a brick exterior.
The thimble goes through the sheetrock and butts up against the brick. Then a hole through the brick only big enough for the exhaust pipe to fit.
You don't need the ~7" hole needed for the thimble all the way through the concrete.
Good point about not needing the 7" hole all the way thru the block wall - I didn't think of that at all.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. Definitely gives me a better idea of what I will need for the install. As one poster said, I also prefer the look of the black vent pipe inside the house but was worried about it being messy with the clean out tee indoors. I guess the only other worry I have with going straight out the wall from a 45 off the back of the stove would be if I needed a different stove in the future what are the odds that that vent would line up or atleast be at a lower spot.
 
The odds of 2 different stoves lining up are not the greatest.
I wouldn't bet the farm on it
 
Thanks for all the help guys. Definitely gives me a better idea of what I will need for the install. As one poster said, I also prefer the look of the black vent pipe inside the house but was worried about it being messy with the clean out tee indoors. I guess the only other worry I have with going straight out the wall from a 45 off the back of the stove would be if I needed a different stove in the future what are the odds that that vent would line up or atleast be at a lower spot.

Odds are extremely low - I have a bit of crazy set up for my P43 because the previous stove (St. Croix Hastings) was set up for straight out as well as a corner install (the Hastings was too wide to make a frontal install and keep the clearance). You can't tell in the pic, but the horizontal run also angles up 4" or so.

P43 pipe set up.jpg
 
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Hi all,
New to the forum and new to the pellet stove world in general. I have been reading a ton of info on here the last couple weeks but wanted to get some direct advice for my situation. Sorry if this gets a little wordy...

I’m planning on installing a gently used Enviro Mini A in one of the corners of my finished basement. The corner is near the walkout door so the grade outside the block wall is about 5” higher than the floor the stove will be sitting on. I planned on running a 45 off the back of the stove and then going straight out the wall(through thimble) then to the clean out tee then up 4 or 5 feet to the exhaust termination. This would leave the bottom of the clean out tee probably only a couple inches off of the ground. Is this okay?Or should I plan on going up inside the room first some before exiting the wall? I wanted to avoid this as to have the clean out tee outdoors.

Also, I’ve looked on pipe specifications and my stove specs and can’t find any info on clearance from the ground outside to the OAK inlet. Is there a spec somewhere for this or just common sense?

Lastly, my wall is about 17” thick with the block foundation plus interior wall. I can’t find a thimble deep enough for this. Is there a workaround for this issue?
Sorry for all the questions and thank you for any help you can give.
Look at ICC Excell pellet vent - They make a wall thimble and extension that will give you the distance you need.
 
I run the ShopVac while I'm cleaning the pipe. Some stuff falls on the floor, but it's not that hard to clean it up. I wouldn't want to try to clean soot out of carpeting, but you shouldn't have carpet close to your stove anyway.

If it was my place, I'd rather run it up through my ceiling and out above the block wall. A lot easier than drilling through concrete. You might find rebar in the middle of the concrete and quickly regret trying it.
 
Luckily it’s block wall and not concrete so I don’t have to worry about rebar. Plus I have access to the proper drill to get through it. I think I am leaning towards going up about 5 feet and then straight out with the pipe now though. I’m liking the look of the black stove pipe inside and it will keep me from drilling a hole in my basement wall only a few inches from the ground outside. My main worry was the clean out tee being inside but it doesn’t seem to be that big of a deal based on my research. I would have to do a second hole in the wall for the OAK if I go this route as to keep the OAK inlet the proper distance from the exhaust outlet.
 
Alright guys, it’s been a couple months and I’m getting close to finishing up my basement room so the pellet stove install is going to be happening soon(good thing, winter is right around the corner).

I’ve still been weighing my options on the venting of the stove. If I wanted to go with my original plan of running the 45 off the back of the stove, could I angle that 45 up a little and then run another 45 elbow off of that, then exit the basement wall? I’m thinking this would give me a few more inches of clearance from the ground outside. Although I haven’t mocked it up with pipe yet I’d imagine it would cause the stove to not sit at a perfect angle in the corner but I’m not too worried about that.

So what say the hive??
 
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I really like the look of a corner install, I’ve just had a nightmare of a time helping my neighbor out when it needed some work and cleaning. Luckily we were able to lift it onto a roll away 4 castor flat moving trolley. Put some pics up when you have it done.
 
I don't see why two 45's wouldn't work.
 
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How about extending the thimble, any ideas on how I would pull that off?
Galvanized light gauge sheet (Lowes), tin snips and some pop rivets. Hell. you can make it any thickness you want to.
 
I don't see why two 45's wouldn't work.
I'd say 2 45's are the maximum amount of exhaust re routing you want. Personally, I'd go with 4" instead of 3. 3-4 appliance adapter, 4-4 inch cleanout Tee and 4" venting. Always better to increase the vent diameter when adding 45's.
 
I'd say 2 45's are the maximum amount of exhaust re routing you want. Personally, I'd go with 4" instead of 3. 3-4 appliance adapter, 4-4 inch cleanout Tee and 4" venting. Always better to increase the vent diameter when adding 45's.
Yup, I was planning on switching to 4” because of the EVL.

Basically I am thinking, and correct me if this sounds bad, 3 to 4” adapter, to two 45s, to 24” pipe to get me through the wall, then clean out tee, up 5 feet to the termination.

And I will definitely post pics once I get it all set up. Thanks for all the help and guidance guys.
 
How much rise on the 24”? And either way you’ll have to make sure the 24” is cleaned more frequently as fly ash will accumulate there
 
How much rise on the 24”? And either way you’ll have to make sure the 24” is cleaned more frequently as fly ash will accumulate there
How much rise should it have? I would obviously like to have a shorter pipe there but the wall is almost 18” wide when you add the block plus interior wall.
 
1/4” a foot I think is what it needs to be, Just make sure to keep an eye on it and keep it clean
 
I'd say 2 45's are the maximum amount of exhaust re routing you want. Personally, I'd go with 4" instead of 3. 3-4 appliance adapter, 4-4 inch cleanout Tee and 4" venting. Always better to increase the vent diameter when adding 45's.

Good point. I was visualizing how my P61a is vented, but never even thought about it being 4" pipe to begin with.
 
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Other than my extended run on my venting, the primary reason for my 4" was the exhaust path and the 2 elbows to get me around the eave. If they made 5", I would have went with 5" Bigger the inside diameter the better it flows and the larger the ID, the more natural draft is present in case of a power failure. The cost difference between 4 and 5 is negligible anyway. Problem is, the larger ID isn't sold in box stores that I ever saw.