So this is my third year burning. What I have is a wood stove insert made by kindlewood it is a older model and heats the house great even on the coldest days. My first question is the dampener handle is just the Steele rod so when I have to open or close the dampener I have to find a glove oven mit whatever. Can I install a wood knob on the end of the rod or does it have to be a Steele coil and anybody that has the Steele coil on there's does the coil ever get to hot to touch? 2nd question is my stove is installed inside the fireplace so I only see the face of the stove so I'm running a magnetic thermometer on the face of the stove. How much should I rely on this temp reading from the front of the stove. I feel a lot more comfortable being able to monitor the box temp ecsoecially when I'm burning hard. What other options are there to monitor it? Also my chimney is obviously brick all the way up through the roof with a clay pipe inside. and the brick is surrounded by cinder block through the ceiling of the family room and through the attic. My "liner" is a 6" stainless Steele ribbed pipe approximately 16' long is this safe considering it is surrounded by the clay,brick and cinder block? Thanks for your time
Couple questions
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Ok well first off it is a damper not a dampener. Sorry that one just bothers me. You may be able to use wood some do. Or it nay get to hot we just dont know. I would go with a spring handle personally.
There are remote thermometers that you could use to monitor the pipe temp if you wanted.
As far as safety goes is the liner insulated? Do you have the required clearance from the outside of the masonry structure to combustible material?
There are remote thermometers that you could use to monitor the pipe temp if you wanted.
As far as safety goes is the liner insulated? Do you have the required clearance from the outside of the masonry structure to combustible material?
What is the hottest you would run the box temp and or the pipe temp?
The liner is not insulated it is just a stainless steel ribbed pipe. As far as I can tell the masonry brick goes right up next to the roof line.the chimney is also right in the middle of my house I would attach pictures if it wasn't so dark out.
The liner is not insulated it is just a stainless steel ribbed pipe. As far as I can tell the masonry brick goes right up next to the roof line.the chimney is also right in the middle of my house I would attach pictures if it wasn't so dark out.
I don't know your stove at all so it is hard to give you any advice on running it.
But if your chimney is internal you need to have 2" clearance to combustible materials from the outside of the masonry chimney structure. If you don't have this which most don't you need to insulate the liner.
The stovetop should not exceed about 800ºF. Less if it's a convection top. Not sure about the flue pipe, as I don't know the stove either.
Good morning, kindlewood stoves were built by a company called PSB, 555 w. Goodale in columbus, ohio owned by White Castle, I used to be an inspector/ tester, I was told to try and get the stove so hot and to try and melt it, never could, I had one for several years, it was a great stove, came in 30 or 36 sizes.
