creosote buildup on boiler loading door

[spartacus912]

I have a tarm solo 60 wood boiler. Why is creosote suddenly building up on the interior of the loading door and surrounding area, sufficient to glue the door shut? I have been using this boiler for approximately six years with no problem. I recently changed the upper ceramic and lower ceramic tunnel. This had no beneficial effect. Wood moisture content is 8 - 10%. The dust was blown out of the blower fan and the chimney is clean. There seems to be a deficit of air flow at the half moon spaces at the top left and right of the door.

 

[KenLockett]

I don't know why but I can vouch for the fact that I have seen the same thing with my Tarm Solo Plus 40 over the years. Just assumed it had to do with wood species, even though my wood is dry as well. One think I have found, is if I don't make an effort to 'remove' the hard and crunchy creosote around the interior base and sides of the loading door entry (not the door but the section but the entry that the door covers, this will block any new formation of the sticky stuff at the door gasket edge which unfortunately tends to 'glue' the door shut. at other times no issue at all and all creosote in this area is just crispy at the worst but door easy to open as stuff flakes off. Have also considered it is maybe a function of the split length (nearer door obviously for longer splits) and/or how high I load the firebox. Does seem to be less prevalent when burning small loads. Anyhow, if you figure it out let me know. Good luck.

 

[maple1]

Not a Tarm, but I had an odd eposide with mine last night. I hit a seam of mostly white birch in my wood pile the last couple of days. So last night I reloaded it full of that stuff (lots of small unsplit stuff) on a really large coal bed. Thought I was golden, but an hour or so later noticed when glancing at my tank temp monitor from the couch that they were moving. Then realized I wasn't hearing the rumble. I went downstairs & nothing happening in the gassification chamber. Opened the wood door & was met by all kinds of flames. I think what happened is the coal bed was too thick, and the nozzle was plugged full of coals right down into the secondary chamber. The gases couldn't get through. Plus all that birch bark was an overload of fuel/gases. Then I saw lots of creosote dripping down from the wood chamber all over my nice secondary viewing window thingie. Looked kind of ugly. I got a hole poked through the coals after a while and got it all to eventually burn up. Some of it must have been not quite seasoned enough too, it made coals like crazy.

 

[lymie1]

sparticus, If you have a loss of air flow that would be your problem I would advise that you check to make sure that the metal flap up on top in your blower is working fine and or has not fallen off and is blocking your air port asa loss of primary air will create a creosote issue. As to Maple1 sounds like a little more then a blockage check to see if that's still happening please remember that as your species of wood or your MC of the wood changes so does the need to adjust your secondary air accordingly to ensure you are keeping a good gasification process also could be a crack in the insert stone or a blockage again in the primary or secondary air check those too

 

[Electrician1]

My tubes in my Solo 40 have a crestoe glaze that a brush cannot touch. This has been going on from day one. I burn very dry fire killed spruce. Thinking of getting an industrial boiler tube scraper. Like thesehttp://(broken link removed to http://www.tcwilson.com/tube_cleaning/cleaning_heads/expanding_scraper.php)

 

[lymie1]

My tubes in my Solo 40 have a crestoe glaze that a brush cannot touch. This has been going on from day one. I burn very dry fire killed spruce. Thinking of getting an industrial boiler tube scraper. Like thesehttp://(broken link removed to http://www.tcwilson.com/tube_cleaning/cleaning_heads/expanding_scraper.php)

Shouldn't have a creosote glaze on the tubes as this is only for hot air exchange should only have fly ash in the tubes. I would say that it sounds like your secondary air is either not open enough giving you a good gasification or your wood has too much MC even though you said it;s very dry have you split and measured the MC in the inside of the wood? Also might check to ensure you have sufficient draft and that the chimney is tall enough. may need to extend height of the chimney or install a chimney draft inducer. But I would start with wood and secondary air first. Remember the dryer the wood the more secondary air you need so if the wood is really dry you should be using more secondary air by adjust the bake lite knob more to the left.

 

[maple1]

Shouldn't have a creosote glaze on the tubes as this is only for hot air exchange should only have fly ash in the tubes. I would say that it sounds like your secondary air is either not open enough giving you a good gasification or your wood has too much MC even though you said it;s very dry have you split and measured the MC in the inside of the wood? Also might check to ensure you have sufficient draft and that the chimney is tall enough. may need to extend height of the chimney or install a chimney draft inducer. But I would start with wood and secondary air first. Remember the dryer the wood the more secondary air you need so if the wood is really dry you should be using more secondary air by adjust the bake lite knob more to the left.

I think he could have creosote in his tubes if he didn't have storage.

 

[lymie1]

I think he could have creosote in his tubes if he didn't have storage.

You are correct that could be a very good explanation I guess the question truley becomes is the boiler going into slumber and not completing it's entire burning cycle. Good point

 

[Electrician1]

Assumptions are true, I do not have storage. I do have a 800 gallon tank but have not installed it yet. I just don't have the space yet.