Cutting and Replacing Firebrick?

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SOH

New Member
Sep 24, 2015
56
Michigan
Hi all!

I'm looking for a consensus here: I have an older QuadraFire 3100 Millennium. All of the original firebrick has crumbled away and/or been removed.

I know QF uses that pumice-like stone intentionally. My question is this: Can I go to a box store, buy standard firebrick, cut and drill it to spec (fortunately I have the needed tools), and expect the stove to operate as it should? The cost for firebrick from QF is really high.

If anyone has experience with this, please feel free to chime in.

Many thanks!

S
 
It is not that the stove won't work - it will, but there is a reason that they use that style of brick rather than the cheaper dense version. It has to do with the insulating and reflective value of the brick. I always recommend to stick with the same style as original. That is the brick it was designed and tested with. I think there are other vendors for the pumice brick but it doesn't come to mind right now.
 
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Using the pumice rather than the clay bricks on the oven floor is likely to affect the required R value of the floor under the stove.
You could double the blocks on the floor but then you lose oven capacity.
In theory the clay blocks will help keep the interior temp higher longer and the stove burning cleaner longer.
The clay blocks supposedly have a longer life too.

I'd very seriously ponder how the highly likely increased temps under the stove affects the safety of using this stove.Not terribly familiar with this stove-if it wasn't made with legs rather than a base maybe heat radiating from the bottom is irrelevant.


edit: I'm assuming Quad is using the more expensive clay/ceramic bricks vs the less costly pumice/concrete bricks.
 
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edit: I'm assuming Quad is using the more expensive clay/ceramic bricks vs the less costly pumice/concrete bricks.

Quad uses a pumice brick but are a long ways from "less costly".
 
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The cost for firebrick from QF is really high.

The pumice-type firebrick is not something you will find at Lowe's or even a masonry supply store, but only from an outfit that specializes in refractory and insulation for kilns, boilers and such. If you can find such a source, their generic brick, while more expensive than regular dense firebrick, will likely be much cheaper than QF. You could certainly find an online source, but shipping could offset much of your savings.
 
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Yup, sure can. Did it last year. It's dusty so a wet saw is preferred but not mandatory.

Thanks for the input. I do have a wet saw, so whatever I go with it will make this more pleasant -- except for the horrible screaming sound those suckers make!
 
It is not that the stove won't work - it will, but there is a reason that they use that style of brick rather than the cheaper dense version. It has to do with the insulating and reflective value of the brick. I always recommend to stick with the same style as original. That is the brick it was designed and tested with. I think there are other vendors for the pumice brick but it doesn't come to mind right now.

Good counsel. I am new to this and wasn't really sure about those factors. Thank you!
 
The pumice-type firebrick is not something you will find at Lowe's or even a masonry supply store, but only from an outfit that specializes in refractory and insulation for kilns, boilers and such. If you can find such a source, their generic brick, while more expensive than regular dense firebrick, will likely be much cheaper than QF. You could certainly find an online source, but shipping could offset much of your savings.

Thanks for this. I'll look into other sources and see how they compare -- shipping, etc. included. They also need to be cut and drilled to fit. Not money, but certainly time. Much appreciated.
 
Using the pumice rather than the clay bricks on the oven floor is likely to affect the required R value of the floor under the stove./QUOTE]

Yeah, it's the other way around but your point is well taken. The stove is not currently in use -- it's holding down my front porch. Before I get it up and running, I will research this further. Thanks.
 
Thanks for this. I'll look into other sources and see how they compare -- shipping, etc. included. They also need to be cut and drilled to fit. Not money, but certainly time. Much appreciated.
Another benefit is that cutting and drilling the pumice ones is pretty easy. We drill with a standard hole saw used for wood. and cut with a cheap diamond blade. No need for a wet saw just cut outside with a respirator
 
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Another benefit is that cutting and drilling the pumice ones is pretty easy. We drill with a standard hole saw used for wood. and cut with a cheap diamond blade. No need for a wet saw just cut outside with a respirator

Having handled that pumice, I can see that it would be pretty easy to cut and drill. And after my last bathroom remodel, I've got all the tools -- wet saw, angle grinder, hole saws. I just need more time in the day! So many projects related to this stove install, and trying to get it all functioning before the truly cold weather. Good to know that stuff is easy to work -- thanks!
 
Another benefit is that cutting and drilling the pumice ones is pretty easy. We drill with a standard hole saw used for wood. and cut with a cheap diamond blade. No need for a wet saw just cut outside with a respirator

Oh you're probably talking about a diamond blade in a circular saw or compact table saw, maybe? Something more exact than an angle grinder. I'll try that and give my respirator a workout. I hate to drag out the wet saw if I don't have to. Cheers!
 
Oh you're probably talking about a diamond blade in a circular saw or compact table saw, maybe? Something more exact than an angle grinder. I'll try that and give my respirator a workout. I hate to drag out the wet saw if I don't have to. Cheers!
You really don't want to use a wet saw on the porous pumice brick anyway.
 
I use a brick set to cut firebrick. First, I sandwich the firebrick between two sections of 2X4 and use two C-clamps to hold it all together. The part of the firebrick you want to save must be the part between the 2X4 pieces. The part to be broken off is on the outside. Then score the outside on both sides with a screwdriver or something. Put your foot on the sandwich and chisel off the part of the brick on the outside with your brick set. Take off the C-clamps to remove your cut and intact section of firebrick. This method is dust and water free. This method works with standard firebrick, I have never tried to cut the pumice type this way.
 
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