Cutting and splitting Big Wood

[otsegony]

A friend of mine who runs a tree service dropped off a load of logs for me and I have been struggling to figure out a way to process them. The four maple logs are from big maple tree that died in town. THe logs are each about 2.5 - 3' in diameter and my Echo chainsaw with an 18" bar can't get too far through them. I thought about just chunking them up with cuts across and through the grain. This would leave me with some odd shaped pieces of wood that wouldn't stack very well. It is also difficult to manipulate the wood as the logs are too large to move without some form of power equipment beyond my iron bars and peaveys. Any ideas as to how to cut this up and process it with with my limited equipment?

Thanks!

Garet

 

[keyman512us]

A friend of mine who runs a tree service dropped off a load of logs for me and I have been struggling to figure out a way to process them. The four maple logs are from big maple tree that died in town. THe logs are each about 2.5 - 3' in diameter and my Echo chainsaw with an 18" bar can't get too far through them. I thought about just chunking them up with cuts across and through the grain. This would leave me with some odd shaped pieces of wood that wouldn't stack very well. It is also difficult to manipulate the wood as the logs are too large to move without some form of power equipment beyond my iron bars and peaveys. Any ideas as to how to cut this up and process it with with my limited equipment?

Thanks!

Garet

Shy of going out and spending $600.00 on a new saw with a 20" bar I would either "start making some new friends with a bigger saw and come to some sort of arrangement" or go out and rent a little bigger saw.
To do a 2 1/2 to 3' around maple??? I would suggest something along the lines of a Stihl 036/MS 360,361 etc... or say a Huskavarna 357XP or the equaivalent with at least a 20" bar and chain.
Trying to cut with a smaller saw (no matter how creative you are) just isn't worth your time...or the wear and tear on the saw.

"Try that friendship"...ask to borrow a "backup saw" from your friend that does the tree work and at the very least "offer a case of beer" for the favor.

Depending on how close your friendship is...he might be able to ssell/rent you a saw reasonably...or at the very least..point you in the right direction.

You could perhaps "get a bigger bar and chain" but this always sounds better in theory than reality. While manufacturers make all sorts of claims...chainsaws for the most part come in the three same sizes of fountain drinks at the burger joint...small, medium and large. A good majority of the saws out there that most people buy are "Small" good for the average firewood you will encounter...basically up to 18" in diameter. A 12"-18" bar on the average saw is great for up two 24" diameter wood. Moving up the line to "medium" are these two saws. They work great with a 20" or 22" inch bar. "Large"??? I would say a Huskavarna 395...but How often would you use it??? Besides...It's rougly a $1000.00 just for the saw before you buy a bar and chains.
If you do decide to "go out and buy a bigger bar" keep your expectaions realistic. Having said that...don't run out and buy a $650.00 saw you will only use two or three times a year.

 

[KeithO]

If you can roll the logs, then cut multiple cuts from above as far through as you can get it (pitched for what you can use in your stove). Then roll the log over, sweep off most of the dirt and start cutting through the other way. You don't need to roll the log for every cut. You may need to use a wedge to prevent the kerf from "closing up", which you put in once you have cut deep enough. I'm assuming you are familiar with using wedges ? Unless the logs were lying on very uneven terrain or a steep slope, I have to believe that one should be able to roll them.

I used this method recently with an unknown species hardwood that was dead and the only safe way to fell it was across our road (away from the power lines). It was at least 2.5' at the bottom and I had it cut into rounds in less than 1/2 hour (we fortunately have minimal traffic on our road). It had been dead for some time so all the smaller stuff was gone. For splitting the rounds, I used a regular splitting axe, not even a maul. Sink about 2/3 of the splitting surface into the outer edge and if at first it appears one is getting nowhere, then pick another spot and try there. For whatever reason, I found that once the first piece is split off, the rest goes much faster. I got through all of that tree (about 1 face cord x16") in about a full day and I have to say it was some of the hardest wood to split I have ever seen. The shear strength was simply phenomenal. I had another smaller oak and it split so easy it was typically just 1 whack to split a piece off at a time. I have been trying to avoid anything much over 4" thick so with the stem 14-16" thick, that is several spilts, typically 4.

 

[DiscoInferno]

Assuming the big-diameter logs are already stove length, then what I do is saw them into 4 or 8 wedges (think pizza) by laying the round on its side (bark) and sawing with the grain. I only have a 16" bar (albeit on a Husky 359) but I can do longer logs by cutting from both sides. Once small enough, I split with a maul as usual.

 

[Gooserider]

In theory (famous last words) an 18" bar should be able to get through up to a 36" diameter log, maybe even a touch bigger. This does require skill in the art of making cuts that line up and are reasonably straight... :cheese:

I find the best approach is to go down the log on each side and cut the full depth of the bar as far around the log as you can get, at stove length intervals until you are almost grounding the saw, working from both sides, which should get you to about 90% done or until the log starts to close up on you (watch the cut, if it starts to close, pull out quickly) I try to also cut all stubs and crotches off to get the log smooth - it makes splitting easier. When the log is sliced use a peavey, pipes, a rope tied to your car or what ever else it takes to roll the log over a bit and finish the cuts, starting at any that showed signs of being almost done by trying to close on you. I find that often it is easiest to do this if you put the bar into the end of the previous cut and continue it with the top of the bar (careful as the saw is breaking out that it doesn't kick on you)

I've been getting plenty of practice with this lately since I took the oversized 16" bar off my 36cc Poulan homeownner grade saw, and replaced it with a 12" bar - the saw cuts nice for the first time since I've owned it, but it means I have to make a lot more matching cuts...

The other approach is to try cutting part way through the log at one end, and then splitting off that chunk, probably with a sledge and wedge, and repeating as you go down the log. Never tried it, but I've been told it works. The only problem is the fractional log that is left will be REALLY hard to roll over once you get it onto the flat...

Gooserider

 

[Eric Johnson]

I think you're going to need more saw than what you have to cut hard maple that big. You'll probably ruin your saw if you try. I'm with keyman--borrow one if you can or better yet, borrow the saw with an operator.

 

[Jags]

"hello! Saws-R-Us? Yes, I would like to rent a MS-361 or MS-440 if you have one. I will need a minimum of a 20" bar. Oh, thats not a bad price, I will be there to pick it up after work".

What it costs in $$$ will save you that much in time. Or at least MY time. I do place a value on time.

I have been wrestling with some pretty big maples myself. There is nothing easy about it even with the proper tools. Don't make it harder on yourself than need be.

 

[Bill]

Echo makes a nice saw, but it's true you might smoke it. Even with a big saw these larger chunks are work. Home Depot rents Dolmars, good saw, smoke there's. In the long run it's always nice to have two saws. But like everything else it takes extra cash. If you decide to use the Echo take your time, keep the blade very sharp, good luck.