Cutting the Damper

[lostDuck]

Okay all so I am ready to install the new chimney liner but my question is how do I get the 6" liner through a 5 7/8 damper? I have searched the threads and could not figure out how others have done it.

My thought is to remove the first row of bricks below the damper and attack any metal with a sawzall to widen the hole. Am I on the right path? I have added a picture of the damper.



I appreciate the input.

Thanks!

 

[Jags]

Some simply ovalize the liner at that point. Take care not to kink it. Others cut out the damper to slide the pipe through.

 

[hearthnleisure]

You're on the right path, alright. I find a large breaker bar to be helpful in snapping that damper frame out of there also. Removing that top row of bricks is going to help you out quite a bit in getting your liner in there.

 

[lostDuck]

Jags-- Wouldn't ovalizing the liner make it tough to clean the chimney from the bottom up?

 

[Jags]

Not that I have heard. It is a fairly common practice. I personally prefer getting the damper out of the way

 

[ozibit juice]

hey lostduck,

i just finished taking the damper out of my fire place last week. i used a sawsall and and a grinder with a cutting wheel. it was a pain in the butt but it worked. my advice is if your going to cut it out with a sawsall, get a dewalt metal demolition blade, actually get a bunch because you're going to be bending them when you cut the damper.

if you are able to bust a couple bricks out below your damper' i.e. they are not structural that would be a good way to go about it as well.

not sure how dirty your chimney is now but i stapled some poly plastic to the ceiling and the wall around the fireplace because its going to get really dusty in there once you start cutting. get a full face mask and a shop vac which is turned on to suck up the dust on all the time

 

[Nick Mystic]

Looking at your photo it seems like you should be able to cut some of the metal away from the damper assembly on the side opposite the bricks. I personally don't like the idea of breaking out bricks if you don't have to since once you start loosening bricks you are never sure where things are going to end up. When I did my liner install last February I used a Sawzall and it worked pretty well. Just be sure to have a good hat, goggles, and respirator when you are in the fireplace cutting since you will knock a lot of old soot and creosote loose that will rain down on you. Also, when I did my cut out I made my hole about 8" square so I would have some added room to maneuver my liner to make the installation easier. You can take care of sealing off this extra space around the liner when you make and install your block off plate. I even made the hole in my block off plate 8" square for this same reason and then used a standard 13" top cap that I screwed to the bottom of my block off plate to seal the hole after I put laid some insulation on top of the block off plate.



Here is the 8" hole in the block off plate.



This photo shows the finished connection with the top cap screwed into place. You can see some of the furnace cement I spread around the edges for a good seal.

 

[Hickorynut]

I had my last wood insert and 6 inch liner installed by the dealer. To open up the damper big enough to get the liner through, they first tried the sawzall and the damper laughed at them. Then the guy brought out a huge pipe wrench and likewise huge cheater bar and broke the damper off in chips. Apparently it was cast-iron.

 

[lostDuck]

Nick,
Interesting idea. I did not think about cutting the metal out infront of the damper... I will have to go back and look at it. I appreciate all the input in the protective gear.

Any one else cut the damper this way?

Thanks!

 

[mstoelton]

41/2 inch angle grinder made my damper pieces of steel in about 15 minutes. The angle grinder and metal cutting blades were ~$20 at harbor freight. That thing cuts steel like butter.