Dauntless- stove too hot

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Jcherv0912

New Member
Nov 23, 2025
15
Arizona
New dauntless.
When we fill it all the way with wood like it says we should do, the heat climbs so high on both the stove and the pipe. Too hot. Have tried turning air control down and it does nothing to decrease temp. What are we doing wrong?
 
Others with more VC experience will come along soon.

But first: start dialing down sooner.
How tall is your flue (stove top to chimney cap)?
 
Need more information. What wood is being burned, juniper? Is the bypass being closed? If yes, when? Does the stove have a catalytic converter? Temps on stove, cat?, and stovepipe? Is the stove pipe single-walled or double? How tall is the flue system from stovetop to chimney cap?
 
Thanks for the quick replies everyone!

For more info:
We are burning pine that’s showing a moisture reading of around 10.
The damper is open.
No catalytic converter.
Double wall stove pipe.
From stove to chimney cap we are about 14.5 feet.

It seems to happen only when the stove is filled to the brim.
When this occurs, there is a roaring type of sound and the thermostat on the stove goes in to the “too hot” range and the pipe itself puts off a chemical smell and has discolored some to be a more dull black.

We are new wood stove owners and so just trying to learn what we are doing wrong or could be doing better/safer.

Appreciate any help!
 
The bypass damper needs to be closed once the fire is hot. Please review pages 8-10 in the stove's manual for proper operation.
 
When I had my VC it was sold without a catalyst and I was told it is optional. It really isn't. The stove will be much easier to control with the catalyst in because it drastically changes the way the stove breaths. The sound you are hearing is the 'afterburner' noise these stoves have due to their exhaust routing. The sound is amplified in your case because there is a void where the catalyst would go that causes cavetation in the air flow due to its absence. It sounds like you are using an analog temp gauge. At worst you should get a digital catalytic probe. At best you should get a different brand of stove, hah.
 
They said it doesn't have a cat so why would it have a bypass damper?
There are bypasses on many stoves that are non-cat. Lopis etc. have this feature for easier startup and reloads without smoke spillage. The Dauntless is a 2N1 design. It can be run with or without the cat because it has a secondary combustion system. The cat is mainly for final cleanup of the flue gases. The rumbling the OP mentions sure sounds like when the stove goes into secondary combustion and the afterburner kicks in. That's why the question about the bypass.
 
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We are new wood stove owners and so just trying to learn what we are doing wrong or could be doing better/safer.
Be patient, this is not a good beginner's stove. It's complex and can be a challenge to run at times, even for an experienced wood burner.
Get the catalyst installed. The stove behaves better in that configuration.
From stove to chimney cap we are about 14.5 feet.
That is on the short side for this stove, at sea level.
 
I am an owner of a Dauntless. If you look up all of my posts you will read the challenge I had. On my 3rd season and have come to enjoy this stove.

A couple of things that might help you.

Your burning really dry pine that inherently burns fast and hot. With the flue open and the firebox full it will be hard to manage the fire. If your going to burn without a catalytic combustor only put the most 3 medium splits at a time. With pine you need the temps to be between 450 and 550 degrees indicated by the stove top thermometer. Or you risk a chimney fire with creosote buildup.

Manage the heat by placing splits in the firebox instead of turning the air down. These stoves need good airflow.

If at all possible get some hardwood to mix in with your pine. These stoves love hardwood.

I recommend installing a digital thermometer and get a combustor. Plenty of good info on this website.

I have come to love this stove after getting great advice here.