DIY Insert Install Q's

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lawn717

New Member
Feb 15, 2021
44
PA
I used a different 12" extension I bought from Rockford, if you dig through my install thread (link in my signature) you'll find it. There's a good chance you'll also need an elbow adapter between the bottom of your liner and the insert, but it depends on how your masonry fireplace was constructed.
What Rockwool did you use for the block off plate? I see “rockwool” everywhere on here, but haven’t seen which specific one/r-value
 

Riteway

Member
Jul 27, 2020
127
Kitsap County, WA
Interesting, I though that was namely used for sound/no R rating. Thank you!
Huh, I never noticed that. I vaguely remember reading on another thread from @bholler that he uses Safe and Sound. But as long as its an unfaced batt, I doubt that it matters what flavor you use. Make sure to stuff some around the liner at the top of the chimney as well, before putting the top plate on.
 
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EbS-P

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
1,711
SE North Carolina
Interesting, I though that was namely used for sound/no R rating. Thank you!
I could not find r value. It’s more expensive than fiberglass if buying for thermal insulation it’s not competitive price wise. It has some R value R 3-4 per inch would be my guess. I’ve looked around here and it’s not always in stock. This is what I ended up with.

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.



 
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lawn717

New Member
Feb 15, 2021
44
PA
I could not find r value. It’s more expensive than fiberglass if buying for thermal insulation it’s not competitive price wise. It has some R value R 3-4 per inch would be my guess. I’ve looked around here and it’s not always in stock. This is what I ended up with.

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.



Looks like it’s in stock locally. Thank you!
 

EbS-P

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
1,711
SE North Carolina
Looks like it’s in stock locally. Thank you!
Wish is came in smaller quantities but I am insulating two stoves. l’ll Find a good spot in the attic for the rest.
 
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bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
26,840
central pa
Huh, I never noticed that. I vaguely remember reading on another thread from @bholler that he uses Safe and Sound. But as long as its an unfaced batt, I doubt that it matters what flavor you use. Make sure to stuff some around the liner at the top of the chimney as well, before putting the top plate on.
I have never and do not recommend stuffing the top of the flue with insulation. Above the blocking plate with an insulated liner. And around the insert if it's on an outside wall and there is room for insulation while still allowing a gap between the stove and insulation.

Any time I see insulation at the top it is soaked due to condensation.
 
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lawn717

New Member
Feb 15, 2021
44
PA
I have never and do not recommend stuffing the top of the flue with insulation. Above the blocking plate with an insulated liner. And around the insert if it's on an outside wall and there is room for insulation while still allowing a gap between the stove and insulation.

Any time I see insulation at the top it is soaked due to condensation.
Got it. Do you recommend safe and sound though?
 

lawn717

New Member
Feb 15, 2021
44
PA
Did mine Sunday. Took 30 min to remove /break out damper then I could stand all the way up in there. I’m trying to figure out if I want the surround or not. If I don’t I can’t set back nearly flush. If I want the surround then it’s about 6” further forward. Block off plate probably needs those measurements before I can make it unless I make it in two pieces and rivet together. Insulation wrap got here before the stove. Baffle broke in transit right down the middle. Haven’t followed up with SBI yet.

View attachment 282156
Going to try to get my damper out tomorrow. How did you going about getting yours out?
 

EbS-P

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
1,711
SE North Carolina
Going to try to get my damper out tomorrow. How did you going about getting yours out?
So I took the whole assembly out, frame and damper.

Ear plugs, eye protection, hammer and a cold chisel. I was able to keep banging it up. Drive Chisel lift to break it loose. It had to go back an inch
Or more before I could lift it up and turn it to bring it out.

Couple thoughts it looked like the they built the fireplace and firebox up to the lintel then set the assembly down in from the open top. Then kept building it up.

Put a box fan up on the top of chimney.

I did knock a few of the top course of firebricks lose. Tried to mortar them back in. Should have done what my pro installer did and just use black high temp RTV. If you have a sawsall get a carbide blade as backup I was not sure I could get the frame out in one piece but I did.

Evan
 

lawn717

New Member
Feb 15, 2021
44
PA
So I took the whole assembly out, frame and damper.

Ear plugs, eye protection, hammer and a cold chisel. I was able to keep banging it up. Drive Chisel lift to break it loose. It had to go back an inch
Or more before I could lift it up and turn it to bring it out.

Couple thoughts it looked like the they built the fireplace and firebox up to the lintel then set the assembly down in from the open top. Then kept building it up.

Put a box fan up on the top of chimney.

I did knock a few of the top course of firebricks lose. Tried to mortar them back in. Should have done what my pro installer did and just use black high temp RTV. If you have a sawsall get a carbide blade as backup I was not sure I could get the frame out in one piece but I did.

Evan
Thanks you! I’m going to try that route first. I really like the idea of being able to stand up in there to work the liner down.

I did try to take an angle grinder to it last week to see what would happen. It did start to cut, it’s just a little beefier and will take ton of effort. I may need a different wheel though.
 

EbS-P

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
1,711
SE North Carolina
Thanks you! I’m going to try that route first. I really like the idea of being able to stand up in there to work the liner down.

I did try to take an angle grinder to it last week to see what would happen. It did start to cut, it’s just a little beefier and will take ton of effort. I may need a different wheel though.
Took three people. To get mine Down i I was sure it was an easy shot
 

bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
26,840
central pa
Thanks you! I’m going to try that route first. I really like the idea of being able to stand up in there to work the liner down.

I did try to take an angle grinder to it last week to see what would happen. It did start to cut, it’s just a little beefier and will take ton of effort. I may need a different wheel though.
If it is cast iron you can just cut a little then give it a good shot with a hammer.
 

lawn717

New Member
Feb 15, 2021
44
PA
Took three people. To get mine Down i I was sure it was an easy shot
It’s just me so had to improvise and combine ideas. I only took out part of it. Didn’t take long.

If it is cast iron you can just cut a little then give it a good shot with a hammer.
I did just that! Knocked out the mortar with a chisel. Then took the angle grinder to each side most of the way, mallet finished it off.

How’d I do? Is there enough room? I get the feeling I am going to need one of those 30 degree elbows.

633B54E7-B08E-4CC5-81AE-BBEDA85AFF3A.jpeg 414A4E72-F877-4929-BB14-7A3488C97A21.jpeg
 
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bholler

Chimney sweep
Staff member
Jan 14, 2014
26,840
central pa
It’s just me so had to improvise and combine ideas. I only took out part of it. Didn’t take long.


I did just that! Knocked out the mortar with a chisel. Then took the angle grinder to each side most of the way, mallet finished it off.

How’d I do? Is there enough room? I get the feeling I am going to need one of those 30 degree elbows.

View attachment 283452 View attachment 283453
There really isn't a good way to know until the insert and liner are both in and you can see it
 

EbS-P

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
1,711
SE North Carolina
It’s just me so had to improvise and combine ideas. I only took out part of it. Didn’t take long.


I did just that! Knocked out the mortar with a chisel. Then took the angle grinder to each side most of the way, mallet finished it off.

How’d I do? Is there enough room? I get the feeling I am going to need one of those 30 degree elbows.

View attachment 283452 View attachment 283453
Thinking ahead because I didn’t do have a plan for attaching blockoff plate.
 
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lawn717

New Member
Feb 15, 2021
44
PA
There really isn't a good way to know until the insert and liner are both in and you can see it
Sounds good. I guess I’ll work on getting this liner down the chimney. Still trying to figure out how I’m going to attach this block off plate.
 

profdlp

Member
Sep 23, 2017
29
Westlake, Ohio
lawn717 - if it helps with your confidence level, I got mine in with the assistance of my semi-disabled wife only. I look at yours and wish I'd have had that much room. You can do this.

As for the elbow, yeah - look at it once you get that far. The company I ordered my stuff from had both a 15-degree and a 30-degree elbow available. I wasn't sure which one I'd need until I had the liner through. It added a few days to the completion of the install having to wait for the right part, but at ~$70 apiece I was glad to get the right one. (And for the record, I foolishly thought that my "flexible" chimney liner would allow me to bend the sucker enough to get by with the straight adapter that came with the kit. It didn't...)
 
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begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
91,301
South Puget Sound, WA
I could not find r value. It’s more expensive than fiberglass if buying for thermal insulation it’s not competitive price wise. It has some R value R 3-4 per inch would be my guess. I’ve looked around here and it’s not always in stock. This is what I ended up with.
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.
The Rockwool team responded to the R-value question:
Rockwool do not brand or publish this as interior partition walls have no R value requirement for building code. However we do test the product and the R Value is R3.9 per inch of thickness. Note its only 3" thickness and will not fill the cavity depth fully if you are placing in a 2 x 4 exterior wall. At R11.7 for 3" thickness it may not comply with local code. And it will leave a 1/2" airgap. Do not leave that airgap behind the insulation as there could be potential for condensation issues.
 
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lawn717

New Member
Feb 15, 2021
44
PA
lawn717 - if it helps with your confidence level, I got mine in with the assistance of my semi-disabled wife only. I look at yours and wish I'd have had that much room. You can do this.

As for the elbow, yeah - look at it once you get that far. The company I ordered my stuff from had both a 15-degree and a 30-degree elbow available. I wasn't sure which one I'd need until I had the liner through. It added a few days to the completion of the install having to wait for the right part, but at ~$70 apiece I was glad to get the right one. (And for the record, I foolishly thought that my "flexible" chimney liner would allow me to bend the sucker enough to get by with the straight adapter that came with the kit. It didn't...)
Thank you very much for the encouragement. It’s been a long, slow process, but things are certainly coming together.

I can definitely get help, but I’m trying to use it sparingly and only when I really need it. IE: getting the liner down, inserting the stove, etc.
 
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