Does a masonry fireplace + chimney need to be in good shape for an insert or wood stove?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

tjwall000

New Member
Nov 10, 2022
2
Accokeek, MD
We recently bought a house with a masonry fireplace+chimney in rough shape (image attached of fireplace - the chimney is similarly gruesome). We had a chimney inspector take a look. They recommended a large amount of restoration work. My overarching question is: how much of this work is necessary if my intent is to install an insert, not use it as a traditional fireplace?

Some specific examples:

They recommend rebuilding the firebox with fresh brick and mortar - is that needed if I’m just going to put an insert in?

They recommend removing existing firebrick from the flue, installing a flexible steel liner, insulating around the liner with poured vermiculite, and re-parging the smoke chamber with refractory cement. Is that necessary if an insert is presumably just going to run a new flue up inside the masonry chimney?

My number one concern is safety. I am willing to pay the (substantial) cost of the work if it’s needed for safe operation of an insert, particularly given the poor conditions. But I don’t want to pay for something that only would be relevant if I want to use it as a traditional fireplace, which I don’t.

Thanks in advance.



[Hearth.com] Does a masonry fireplace + chimney need to be in good shape for an insert or wood stove?
 
We recently bought a house with a masonry fireplace+chimney in rough shape (image attached of fireplace - the chimney is similarly gruesome). We had a chimney inspector take a look. They recommended a large amount of restoration work. My overarching question is: how much of this work is necessary if my intent is to install an insert, not use it as a traditional fireplace?

Some specific examples:

They recommend rebuilding the firebox with fresh brick and mortar - is that needed if I’m just going to put an insert in?

They recommend removing existing firebrick from the flue, installing a flexible steel liner, insulating around the liner with poured vermiculite, and re-parging the smoke chamber with refractory cement. Is that necessary if an insert is presumably just going to run a new flue up inside the masonry chimney?

My number one concern is safety. I am willing to pay the (substantial) cost of the work if it’s needed for safe operation of an insert, particularly given the poor conditions. But I don’t want to pay for something that only would be relevant if I want to use it as a traditional fireplace, which I don’t.

Thanks in advance.



View attachment 302485
No most of that work is not nessecary for the safe installation of an insert
 
  • Like
Reactions: dafattkidd
if it’s structurally sound and water tight an insert with an insulated liner is a good choice. I like the arch get a trim able or custom surround or go without.
 
This looks like a heatform-style fireplace. I see the vents on the fireplace. An insert will be a nice improvement here.
 
This looks like a heatform-style fireplace. I see the vents on the fireplace. An insert will be a nice improvement here.

Interesting, didn’t know the term “heat-form”. Should I have the metal firebox torch-cut out (another thing the inspector suggested)? It is very rusty, including the damper. They also said to brick over the vents - good idea?

[Hearth.com] Does a masonry fireplace + chimney need to be in good shape for an insert or wood stove? [Hearth.com] Does a masonry fireplace + chimney need to be in good shape for an insert or wood stove?
 
I wouldn't it's part of the classic look of the fireplace.
 
Interesting, didn’t know the term “heat-form”. Should I have the metal firebox torch-cut out (another thing the inspector suggested)? It is very rusty, including the damper. They also said to brick over the vents - good idea?

View attachment 302518 View attachment 302519
There is no reason to remove the heat form completely to install an insert just cut enough to get the new liner through. As far as the vents go yes they can be bricked closed. But I usually just pull the covers stuff them full of rock wool and put the covers back on with a solid plate behind them