Door Gasket

[whiskeypete]

With burning season just ahead, I thought I should get the stove ready. I'm wondering if I need to change the door gasket. Its only been a year but the seam where the gasket ends meet is fraying. From the factory, the seam was wrapped. Judging from the soot patterns on the face of the stove opening, air has been getting in there. I checked the face with a straight edge and the face in that area was warped a little. So I hammered it to make it more flat and tried the dollar bill test. It wouldn't budge. Should I go ahead and change the gasket? I don't think I could do a better job and not have the ends fray like the current one.

 

[mellow]

I would, it is a relatively cheap fix. I think you can do a better job on the ends, just take your time cutting the gasket and getting the gasket sealant on it.

 

[whiskeypete]

Any idea on what type of gasket it is?

 

[mellow]

Your manual will tell you what size door gasket to use, but if you have an Ace Hardware or a stove shop near by you can cut off a piece of it and take it with you to match up if you can't find the size. Ace sells the Rutland gaskets which is what I have bought and have had no issues with.

 

[whiskeypete]

It just lists a part number, which costs $40 for 7 feet of gasket online. Does that sound about right. Or is it cheaper to just find out what kind of gasket it is and go to a stove shop

 

[mellow]

Cheaper to find out what size door gasket it is and buy it from a stove shop, most will help you find it, it is easy to take out, just get a flat head screw driver and pry it out, measure the length, when you buy some get an extra foot.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I'd get more than a foot extra. I've put it in and then found I stretched it too thin and the door didn't seal. Now I scrunch it thick so it's sure to seal. It's much cheaper to buy a little more the first time you drive there than to have to drive there a second time for more gasket.

 

[madison]

"So I hammered it to make it more flat and tried the dollar bill test. It wouldn't budge."

-Gasket would not be the issue in this case, i glanced at your manual, and it does not mention door fitting. I would carefully examine how the door is hinged and latched, to see if you could CAREFULLY (without hammering) adjust the door.

Post some more pictures of the latch and hinges for ideas.

I would suggest NOT replacing the gasket until you figure out how the door can be adjusted to stove frame.

Nonetheless, the gaslet looks like graphite impregnated material. If you go with Rutland make sure you get the kit with the BLACK cement.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

It just lists a part number, which costs $40 for 7 feet of gasket online. Does that sound about right. Or is it cheaper to just find out what kind of gasket it is and go to a stove shop

40 bucks for 7 ft of door gasket is highway robbery unless a lot of that cost is shipping (and its still too high)

 

[stoveguy2esw]

looking at your pic, i do not see an issue worth sweating, your stove face shows a little air has been getting through that "butted end" area, but they all do that to some extent. i say let it rock, just maybe carefully trim a few of the frayed end with a good pair of fabric scissors

 

[BrotherBart]

Looks more like that air is coming from the airwash than the door gasket.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Looks more like that air is coming from the airwash than the door gasket.

ya, thats what im seeing, but its seeping a little , see the shiny black streak just above where the butted ends meet?

i still think its a "non starter" i wouldn't worry about such a small leak just yet

that small a leak ain't gonna cause any warpage, my guess is the warp was in it from day one, but the gasket should seal the slight bit here, seriously (to the OP) the small seep you have here did not warp that area

 

[Mr A]

It just lists a part number, which costs $40 for 7 feet of gasket online. Does that sound about right. Or is it cheaper to just find out what kind of gasket it is and go to a stove shop

My Jotul dealer told me there isn't anything special about gaskets. Just get the right width and you're good.

 

[Woody Stover]

I think the OE gaskets are the high-density type, whereas the Rutlands and stove shop stuff are a looser weave, which doesn't seal as well. If you've got a small piece of left over gasket around, you might try cutting a small piece and gluing it into the gap at the ends of the door gasket with some high-temp silicone. The silicone should also keep the door gasket from unraveling further. Put some paper between the patch and the door frame to make sure any glue that seeps out doesn't stick to the door frame and pull the gasket loose.

 

[BrotherBart]

Yeah I put the low density stuff from ACE on a 30-NC one time and the door handle spun around like a clock.