Draft control VS air intake control Progress or whatever

[Rearscreen]

I was interested in a recent thread that blew apart where a Woodstock Progress had way too much draft and was going through wood like crazy. Thread was cancelled because it became nonsensical. Anyway, what's the difference in restricting the air intake vs restricting the flu exhaust in any airtight stove situation?

 

[bholler]

I was interested in a recent thread that blew apart where a Woodstock Progress had way too much draft and was going through wood like crazy. Thread was cancelled because it became nonsensical. Anyway, what's the difference in restricting the air intake vs restricting the flu exhaust in any airtight stove situation?

Given the choice i would much rather restrict the flue and bring the draft into spec. Restricting the air will work but that excessive draft is still there and if your gaskets etc are not perfect it will cause problems.

 

[lsucet]

I do think is better approach controlling the intake. All stove has control over the intake with multiple designs, but with the same purpose. Depending on technology and design some has secondary burn intake that take place once the primary air is closed. Flue control is more for an overdraft condition due to different setups, location, etc. In some cases can be use in combination with intake control to adjust better the burn rate ( rare now a days with modern stoves.) But to see which work better you will need a combustion analyzer.. just kidding.

 

[bholler]

I do think is better approach controlling the intake. All stove has control over the intake with multiple designs, but with the same purpose. Depending on technology and design some has secondary burn intake that take place once the primary air is closed. Flue control is more for an overdraft condition due to different setups, location, etc. In some cases can be use in combination with intake control to adjust better the burn rate ( rare now a days with modern stoves.) But to see which work better you will need a combustion analyzer.. just kidding.

In this case we are talking about a stove with excessive draft. So bringing the draft into spec is the best option.

 

[lsucet]

In this case we are talking about a stove with excessive draft. So bringing the draft into spec is the best option.

Agreed. By he also asked the differences between.

 

[bholler]

Agreed. By he also asked the differences between.

Ahh ok

 

[Rearscreen]

if your gaskets etc are not perfect it will cause problems.

That pretty much answers my question.

 

[KennyK]

When I put in a new stove last spring, I added a flue damper. I have a 25 foot 6 inch smooth walled liner with a strong draft, and Woodstock suggested I may want to consider adding it. While we still haven't had super cold weather this year, on a few of the colder days I tried turning it from open to "closed" (it's never completely closed) position, and I really didn't notice a difference either way (though perhaps I didn't give it a ton of time in closed position as I mostly have just left it open). I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what is the difference that I should be seeing with this and what would make it have no effect, as it appeared to have?

 

[lsucet]

When I put in a new stove last spring, I added a flue damper. I have a 25 foot 6 inch smooth walled liner with a strong draft, and Woodstock suggested I may want to consider adding it. While we still haven't had super cold weather this year, on a few of the colder days I tried turning it from open to "closed" (it's never completely closed) position, and I really didn't notice a difference either way (though perhaps I didn't give it a ton of time in closed position as I mostly have just left it open). I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what is the difference that I should be seeing with this and what would make it have no effect, as it appeared to have?

If I was you I will like to know how much draft I have. Based on that you will know if you need one or possibly you will need another one. But testing the draft as for manufacture specs is the only way to know which route to go.

 

[Woody Stover]

Depending on technology and design some has secondary burn intake that take place once the primary air is closed.

Right, so with overdraft, when you cut the primary air more than you would with normal draft, the strong draft will pull more air through the secondary. IOW the balance (percentage) of how much air is coming in the primary vs. how much is coming through the secondary, is different than it would be with normal draft. That would affect the characteristics of the burn, how the air wash works, how clean it burns, etc. I'd think. So I'd want the draft within spec. Not sure on a PH if it has separate thermostatic control of the secondary air like the steel hybrids, but that would throw yet another dynamic into the equation..